Fletching tips
#1
Me and my cousin have decided to put our own wraps and vanes on. Were both using blazers. Were done trusting anybody else with our stuff, becouse nobody does a good job. Does anybody have any tips? And whats the best glue to use? We already have a jig, so thats not a problem. Should we put a helical on our vanes?, and what do people mean by offset? I know its alot of questions, but this is our first time for actually doing it on our own so we need some good advice (and im pretty sure we came to the best!).
#2
What type of jig are you going to be using, that will great help with answering some of your questions.
If you and your cousin are going to be using Blazer vanes, then you should be putting atleast a slight offset on your vane, somewhere in the 2 degree range. You can also visit the Bohning website for more information about fletching tips for Blazer vanes.
A universal tip when fletching or refletching is making sure the shaft is clean.. . by clean I mean making sure all of the old vanes, glue, wrap (if used) is removed (stripping tools work the best, even a light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper helps), then using cleaning products, such as acetone, toprepare the shaft for fletching. If using sandpaper, cleaning the shaft is critical as carbon dust will inherently impair adhesion.
Watch how much glue you put onto the base of the vane. A little seam of glue can go a long way when the shaft is clean and the base is properly seated on the shaft. You don't need a ton of glue to keep a vane secure to the shaft. It may take a few runs to get the right amount. . .it is a good idea to practice on broken or old shafts before you try to refletch your "hunting" arrows.
Once you list the type of jig you will be using, we might be able to fill you in on specific secrets for the specific jig.
If you and your cousin are going to be using Blazer vanes, then you should be putting atleast a slight offset on your vane, somewhere in the 2 degree range. You can also visit the Bohning website for more information about fletching tips for Blazer vanes.
A universal tip when fletching or refletching is making sure the shaft is clean.. . by clean I mean making sure all of the old vanes, glue, wrap (if used) is removed (stripping tools work the best, even a light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper helps), then using cleaning products, such as acetone, toprepare the shaft for fletching. If using sandpaper, cleaning the shaft is critical as carbon dust will inherently impair adhesion.
Watch how much glue you put onto the base of the vane. A little seam of glue can go a long way when the shaft is clean and the base is properly seated on the shaft. You don't need a ton of glue to keep a vane secure to the shaft. It may take a few runs to get the right amount. . .it is a good idea to practice on broken or old shafts before you try to refletch your "hunting" arrows.
Once you list the type of jig you will be using, we might be able to fill you in on specific secrets for the specific jig.
#3
Well now,
Helical...are you shooting through a Bisker whisket? If so, keep them straight. If you use a drop or prong style rest, add as much helical as you want.
A lot of guys use super glue for fletching, but I like to use glue thats made for fletching, such as Bohning fletch-tite, or my favvy Flex bond.
offset just means that one tip of the vane is more to the left or right than say the back.. see pic below...
p.s. I shoot 2" blazers through a WB with straight 1 degree offset to the right. and they stabilize just fine
Helical...are you shooting through a Bisker whisket? If so, keep them straight. If you use a drop or prong style rest, add as much helical as you want.
A lot of guys use super glue for fletching, but I like to use glue thats made for fletching, such as Bohning fletch-tite, or my favvy Flex bond.
offset just means that one tip of the vane is more to the left or right than say the back.. see pic below...
p.s. I shoot 2" blazers through a WB with straight 1 degree offset to the right. and they stabilize just fine

#5
Typical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 868
Likes: 0
From: USA
Here are just a few of the "best practices" I have found over the years.
1) Blazer vanes + wraps work great with Bohning Platinum glue. It sets quickly and remains flexible enough that the vane will not snap off if struk. I have tried a bunch of the cyanoacrylite glues (super glues) and have lost vanes with all of them.
2) When putting glue on your vane, spread a good thick bead down the base then dab the base of the vane on a piece of paper towel. This will spread the glue evenly across the entire base and remove any excess. When using Bohning adhesives and Blazer vanes, DO NOT clean the base of the vane. Blazer vanes have some sort of compound on the base that works with the Bohning adhesives to cause them to cure faster. If you are using other types of glues (steel force, goat tuff, etc...) you need to clean the base of the vane.
3) Blazers work awesome when fletched with some helical. While it does not seem to look like a lot on a 2" vane, the helical, IMHO, is more stable than just offset.
4) When applying wraps, use a soft (neoprene) computer mouse pad. Peel the wrap off the backing and lay it flat on the mouse pad. Align the shaft and roll it over the wrap. The softness of the mouse pad presses the wrap perfectly onto the shaft.
5) After you get done wrapping your arrows, ensure you clean the wraps to remove any grease or oils your hands may have left behind. I have been using Windex and a clean paper towel for years and have yet to loose a vane this way.
6) After you are done fletching, put a dab of glue at the front and back of each vane where the base meets the shaft. This will keep the ends from peeling up. It is especially important to do this if you are using a Wisker Biscuit.
7) Allow at least 24 hours for your glue to dry and set up prior to shooting your arrows.
1) Blazer vanes + wraps work great with Bohning Platinum glue. It sets quickly and remains flexible enough that the vane will not snap off if struk. I have tried a bunch of the cyanoacrylite glues (super glues) and have lost vanes with all of them.
2) When putting glue on your vane, spread a good thick bead down the base then dab the base of the vane on a piece of paper towel. This will spread the glue evenly across the entire base and remove any excess. When using Bohning adhesives and Blazer vanes, DO NOT clean the base of the vane. Blazer vanes have some sort of compound on the base that works with the Bohning adhesives to cause them to cure faster. If you are using other types of glues (steel force, goat tuff, etc...) you need to clean the base of the vane.
3) Blazers work awesome when fletched with some helical. While it does not seem to look like a lot on a 2" vane, the helical, IMHO, is more stable than just offset.
4) When applying wraps, use a soft (neoprene) computer mouse pad. Peel the wrap off the backing and lay it flat on the mouse pad. Align the shaft and roll it over the wrap. The softness of the mouse pad presses the wrap perfectly onto the shaft.
5) After you get done wrapping your arrows, ensure you clean the wraps to remove any grease or oils your hands may have left behind. I have been using Windex and a clean paper towel for years and have yet to loose a vane this way.
6) After you are done fletching, put a dab of glue at the front and back of each vane where the base meets the shaft. This will keep the ends from peeling up. It is especially important to do this if you are using a Wisker Biscuit.
7) Allow at least 24 hours for your glue to dry and set up prior to shooting your arrows.
#8
Giant Nontypical
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
Likes: 0
I would never use straight fletch for arrows I intend for shooting broadheads. 3 degree offset or helical shouldn't present the slightest problem with any rest with Blazers, including whisker bisquit.




