Here are just a few of the "best practices" I have found over the years.

1) Blazer vanes + wraps work great with Bohning Platinum glue. It sets quickly and remains flexible enough that the vane will not snap off if struk. I have tried a bunch of the cyanoacrylite glues (super glues) and have lost vanes with all of them.

2) When putting glue on your vane, spread a good thick bead down the base then dab the base of the vane on a piece of paper towel. This will spread the glue evenly across the entire base and remove any excess. When using Bohning adhesives and Blazer vanes, DO NOT clean the base of the vane. Blazer vanes have some sort of compound on the base that works with the Bohning adhesives to cause them to cure faster. If you are using other types of glues (steel force, goat tuff, etc...) you need to clean the base of the vane.

3) Blazers work awesome when fletched with some helical. While it does not seem to look like a lot on a 2" vane, the helical, IMHO, is more stable than just offset.

4) When applying wraps, use a soft (neoprene) computer mouse pad. Peel the wrap off the backing and lay it flat on the mouse pad. Align the shaft and roll it over the wrap. The softness of the mouse pad presses the wrap perfectly onto the shaft.

5) After you get done wrapping your arrows, ensure you clean the wraps to remove any grease or oils your hands may have left behind. I have been using Windex and a clean paper towel for years and have yet to loose a vane this way.

6) After you are done fletching, put a dab of glue at the front and back of each vane where the base meets the shaft. This will keep the ends from peeling up. It is especially important to do this if you are using a Wisker Biscuit.

7) Allow at least 24 hours for your glue to dry and set up prior to shooting your arrows.