How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

I finally decided to document the process of how I tie in nocksets and my D-loop as I set up another of my bows. I offer a quick disclaimer: This is not THE way to set up your nocksets and loop; there are at least six different documented ways to tie in a loop and where to place your nocksets. Noted archery expert Larry Wise wrote recently, though, that he's seen approximately 75% of tournament archers use either the method I'm going to demonstrate below, or he's seen archers just use one nockset below the nock. Although at first glance you would think that having equal-length nocksets above and below the nock would yield the most-uniform pull (or the absence of any nocksets and just using the D-loop's knots), having a longer knot length below the knot allows the release to pull directly behind the arrow nock -- as you'll see at the end.

First things first, though... I affix my bow in my vise and snap a level on to make sure it's not leaning or canted any way. I want it to be exactly plumb and square as I'll soon be locating where my first nockset needs to go.



Next, I gather my materials: Some BCY nock point tying thread, and some waxed dental floss.



Cut off about ten inches of dental floss, as well as about a foot of nock-tying thread; it's way more thread than you'll use for the actual knot, but this stuff is extremely cheap -- and you'll appreciate the long tag ends which you'll be able to grab as we tighten the nock set later on.

The first thing we want to do is to take our looped dental floss and lay it alongside your bow string's center serving. Then, take your nock thread and lay it alongside the floss, leaving at least six inches above your hand as a tag end.



You'll see in the next pic below that I've wrapped the knot tying thread back on top of itself three times. Notice that I made my first wrap at the bottom, and then started working the wraps UP towards the top. One more wrap, and this one is nearly completed; my top nockset consists of four wraps.



After completing the last wrap, I stick the tag end with which I've been wrapping with through the loop created by the dental floss and pull that end back under the wraps.



Once pulled all the way through, your first nockset should look like this:



You can snug it up against the center serving to keep it from slipping down, but be cautious to not tighten it too much at this point; we need to locate exactly where we want it first. The beautiful thing about this is you can slide this nockset up and down until you get it exactly where you want it before tightening it down.

For my BowTechs, I've discovered that a good starting point is to set them up so that the arrow is perfectly level and square to the bowstring. In this pic, you'll see where I've unhooked the turnbuckle sleeve off my Muzzy Zero Effect so that I can position the arrow in its raised state. Ensuring that the arrow shaft passes squarely through the berger holes, I adjust the location of where the nock snaps onto the serving until my level bubble is perfectly centered between the lines.



Slide the nockset to where it makes firm contact with the arrow nock, ensuring you don't move the arrow in the process. Remove the arrow and grab both tag ends and pull hard, cinching down the nockset to stay. This is where you'll appreciate the extra-long tag ends; I usually have enough to wrap over my hands and can pull on them as hard as I can.

Snip the tag ends off with a sharp knife or razor, leaving about an 1/8 of an inch. I take my bow out of the vise so I can lay it down horizontally on my work bench, and then light the tag ends with a lighter. Watch them burn carefully, and just as they reach the nockset, simultaneously extinguish the mini-fire and push them up into body of the nockset.

Here's my top nockset in place and completed, and my bottom one has just been slid into place and is ready to be tightened. Note here that I've wrapped my bottom nockset EIGHT times as opposed to the four used to complete the top; I've found this combination will allow my release to pull directly behind my arrow nock, as you'll see in the last pic.



Key takeaways to make this process quick and easy: Don't be stingy with your nock-tying thread; the stuff is extremely cheap, comes on 75-yard rolls, and the more you use the easier it is to grab the tag ends and pull after you make your knot. Also, remember when wrapping around the serving and the dental floss to wrap UP and back onto the knot tying thread itself -- that way, when you insert the tag end into the dental floss, you'll actually pull that tag under its own wrappings, which is what makes this knot so neat and precise.

The D-loop

I'm now going to give away my biggest secret when it comes to tying D-loops: Don't pre-cut a specific length of material. I see guys all the time say they cut five inches of material to start with, or some other length. I start with the complete length that comes in a package. That way, I can start working from one end, have the rest of the rope to pull with to tighten down my knots, and after I'm through I just cut off the whole excess. I waste NOTHING when I make my D-loops, and am able to really crank down on my knots when I'm tying them.

First, you have to mushroom out one of the ends by tamping down the rope until it flares out...



Take your lighter and melt that flared-out end until it becomes a ball. Most people will tell you not to allow that mushroomed-out part to actually catch fire (to avoid the fibers becoming brittle), but to hold the flame just far enough away so that the fibers melt without lighting. I give the ball 30 seconds or so to cool, and I don't flatten it against the side of the cigarette lighter. Next, I form a loop with the rope and place it under my bowstring like this:



Then, I simply push the melted ball over the string and under the loop, and also feed the long tag end over the bow string and under the loop as well:



Snug up the overhand cinch knot you just created, and rotate it around so that the long tag end is coming off the back of your bow string.



D-loop secret #2: I grab a Mini Mag kept under my workbench, and roll the long tag end around and around the barrel of the flashlight. This allows me to grab it with the tag end emerging between my two middle fingers. While holding the bow string in one hand, I pull as hard as I'm capable of for at least five seconds. This REALLY snugs up this bottom knot! Some people even prefer to wax the rope material, allowing the knot to tighten that much more.



D-loop secret # 3... at least if you're like me and fond of shooting the smallest loop you can get your release in without hitting the arrow nock. With today's "shorty" releases and forward-trigger designs, loop shooters don't have to give up any draw length when combined with this technique! Lay your rope alongside the string and as you make the beginning of your first knot, pull it snug. That's right, don't pre-form a loop. Also, take note to cross your rope over and begin your second knot so that the length of rope passes by the bowstring on the opposite side that it did for the first knot. This will help to prevent the knot from rotating around the bowstring through repeated use. Notice the long tag end coming out of the first knot and what is actually going to form the loop is coming from the bottom of the bowstring; therefore, I cross the bowstring when beginning the second knot OVER the bowstring.



Complete the knot, and again wrap the excess rope material around the Mini Mag... pull until you can't pull any harder.



Cut off the excess rope material, leaving about 1/8 of an inch to flare out so that you can burn it into a ball. I will actually let the ball melt into the knot just barely sometimes to help lock it in. Take care to not allow the fire to melt the actual knot itself and destroy its integrity.



Now you can insert a pair of pliers into the knot, and pull with all your might. This will help cinch the knots down even further, but more importantly will allow you to get your arrow nock into the loop as you draw for the first time with your new loop.



Here's how the finished product looks; note that my release head is directly behind the arrow nock. I had to keep my index finger behind the trigger to show the loop and nocksets, but when I lay it over on the other side and prepare to shoot, I don't feel as though I've given up any draw length, and I feel extremely confident that I'm hooked up as about as perfectly as I can be for that once-in-a-lifetime shot!

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Very nice Greg, thanks for the time and effort you put into this.

I tie mine almost the exact same way. The only thing I do different is I use the half knot method to tie on the nock sets and I burn my loop off of the string then install. It's a little harder to tie the second knot on the loop but I know there is no damage to the string or knot from my trying to melt it on the string. I can also get a perfect melted ball endby holding the loop material in my hand and spinning it while I melt the end.

Great work, this should bepinned.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

thanks for posting that, i like learning things like that to become more independent. ;)

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Great post Greg! Thanks for taking the time.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

You need to shorten your draw length...[8D]:D nice post...

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Nice job. Alot of good information.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Thanks Greg.

Like the step by step - you should consult on instruction manuals!

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Fantastic job Greg!

I know what I am doing tomorrow!

Instead of Tying Thread...could you use BCY 62 or Poly?

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Nice informative thread Greg! I hope everyone appreciates the time you spent to post this;)

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Thanks for sharing!! I am definitely going to use this to my advantage!!

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

My nock falls directly under my eye, just like the pros teach... thank you very much! ;)Just because you 26" guys are jealous of us 29"ers... [8D]

Thanks guys for the kind words; you're right, MeanV... that's why even though I've thought of doing this for a while, it took so long for me to finally pull the trigger on actually doing it. Hopefully this one will help people as much as my other instructional threads have.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Greg - I like the way you tied it -such that it minimizes pinch and doesn't cut too much off of the draw length. Good for short ATA bows, and good for conserving as much draw length (speed) as possible.

Lots of the shops around here like to tie loops with 3/4"+ of slack in them, and guys are having them installed, then they can't figure out how my draw length is so long (I don't use a loop), and wonder where all their speed went. [:-]

Good point on the draw length too.Seems likea lot of guys are quickto presume that you're too stretched out (for whatever number of reasons). Between that trend, and the number of guys tying 1" long loops, it seems like everybody and their brother is down to a 27-28" actual draw these days.

One future tutorial that I could use: How to tie a tie-nock. I know there's a certain cross-over knot that you're supposed to use, but Iinvariably screw it up, and it comes unwound.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Bump

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Good stuff Greg. You promised and came through. That took some time, I'm sure. Thanks.:)

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

You are a champion. Excellent instruction.

Question for you though...why the nocksets? I understand the loop...I use one but, don't understand the nocksets. To avoid nock pinch?

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

I don't see any reason you couldn't try... The great thing about "becoming independent" -- as bloodcreek stated -- is you can just tear it down and rebuild it if it doesn't work out the way you want.

midwest, you can definitely locate your nocksets so that you do avoid nock pinch... Just as importantly to me is the ability to use them as "placeholders" so that my release hooks up onto the loop exactly behind my arrow nock. Combine the two benefits, and I won't tie on a loop without them anymore.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Not only does it help with release alignment as Greg mentioned, it also allows you to virtually eliminate any nock pinch and custom tailor each set to the exact nock style you are using without fear of that loop pressure changing.

Another benefit I see seldom mentioned.......if your loop wears or needs replacing to fine tune anchor etc the nock sets already have your tune built in without need to re-find your exact nock set. You can simply cut off the old loop and retie a brand new one without worrying about changing a thing with respect to nock height or nock fit.
:)good stuff.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Are you talking about how to serve? When you refer to a "cross-over knot", I'm assuming you're talking about the back wrap that's done at the end of the serving to finish it off clean?

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

I'm sorry but the point of the dental floss is to bring the tag ends down under the wraps to make the nock sets more secure?

One other thing. Does it have to be Mint dental floss? ;):D...j/k

Another great how-to thread Greg! We need to sticky all your how-to's if not done so already.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Pushing that tag end through the loop of dental floss and then pulling it back under the wraps you just created is the only thing that will complete the knot. If you don't do that, there's nothing to keep the wraps there; it will just unravel or unwind as soon as you let it go with your fingers. The first time you do it, you'll see... ;)

I prefer this method to the one which Big John mentioned right after my post because I can slide this one up and down the center serving until I determine its final resting spot, and then pull hard on the tag ends to lock it down. I used to tie my nock sets in with half-hitches like John does (and there's certainly nothing wrong with that; I've seen some of the country's best tuners use that exact method), but this offers me more flexibility in moving the nock until I get it where I want it.

And thanks for the kind words; they are indeed appreciated. It's what makes doing a big thread like this worthwhile. Well, that... and all the money Justinpays me. [:-]

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Great post Greg!!! You need to give yourself one of those antler award things......Nicely done.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Good point on being able to cut the loop off and retie when needed, and one we often neglect to mention. Case in point... I tied the one below just a smidgeon too short; my release head just barely fits in behind the nock without making contact, and I don't feel comfortable leaving such little hookup room while on stand as I'm watching a deer approach... This pic demonstrates how short of a loop you can get using this method, though. I'll be retying this one later -- but with the nocksets already in place, it'll take just a couple minutes.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Wouldn't it be a smart idea to tack this to the top of the forum, at least until opening day? It's about time for the newbies and seasonal shooters to start showing up and asking questions. We're sure to be having to go back and digging through the archives to find this thread if you don't.;)

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

quite an effort and demonstration greg.

i want to ask a tied in nocking pt question. when i went to shooter school larry was shooting a hoyt wheelie bow - wheel and a half. he had 1 tied in nocking pt above the arrow nock and none below. i was shooting a single cam bow and had 1 tied in below my nock and none above (or vice versa - i don't remember). i asked him about it because i figured i'd messed up- i mean he is larry wise.he told me a cam or wheel.5 bow generally prefers one tied in pt either above or below - a single cam is the opposite - and a dually you use both - in general - but its best to experiment and see which of the 3 options your bow likes. thing is, i'm only 80% sure he had his on top and mine was on bottom. does anyone know, heard this, or have the theory behind it? (and willing to explain). i think i understand why its that way - but i'm not sure.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Thanks, John

I could only guess as to why certain nockset configurations work best with different cam styles.. I'm wondering if dual nocksets would help the arrow leave more "square" on bows preferring the arrow to be level from a tune standpoint like Bowtech. Since Mathews shooters usually start with an 1/8" above center (if I remember correctly), maybe that's why just a single nockset would be more advantageous... Again, just a guess.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

i think that's exactly it greg. its what thecam system isdoing to cause the nock travel that determines where it needs to be.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

John,

I have used the dual nockset with the bottom one being longer for quite a while on everything from nitrous cams, to single cams, to binaries. I really like this best because it can put just a bit of down pressure on the arrow to keep it planted on the blade (target applications), and it keeps the release inline with the arrow. I really hate nock pinch, and have seen some drastic arrow flight problems caused by it.

I do think this year that on whatever bow I will be shooting for indoors season I will probably try a release rope again and no loop. There are some significant advantages to this on a target specific rig using a sear style thumb trigger or hinge.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

yes, advantages, go on please...

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

You ever shoot your hinge off a release rope? Try it sometime............every hinge I have ever shot was sooooo much smoother off a release rope than a loop.

I also think a lot of thumb style sear type releases break at different amounts of load on the trigger whenshot off a loop depending on exact positioning of the release and angle it is when the trigger is being loaded. Again this is purely speculation on my part and I have no data but I have discussed this in depthwith some of the local pro level shooters and all of us seem to agree. I guess I should get the digitalscale out at work and play with this a bit. Anyhow, itseems to be MUCH more consistent and smoother off the release rope. I have heard of some of the local pros cleaning up some high/low shots by going to this and most of the guys locally that are 59x+ average shooters are shooting release rope instead of a loop. It also reduces any unconsistent torque being applied to the string.........people think a loop prevents this and it is better than shooting a release straight off the string...............but a string loop does it even more so.........this could potentially also clear up some of those arrows that feel like perfect shots but miss the X ring right/left.

Disadvantages for me to using a release rope instead of a loop are that I already have a VERY low peep height (just about 5" on the slayer) and if I am going to make 90 meters for FITA a rope under is going to decrease that nock to peep distance and make it tougher to get that yardage out of a bow. Whatever bow I am shooting for indoor season this year will more than likely be setup using release rope initially though depending on what release I am using at that point.

I am shooting the Evolution on my fita/field archery bow right now and I really really wish that release would allow for me to shoot a release rope, so for now I am stuck with a loop on that bow. I know that a loop DOES affect when this specific release breaks depending on what angle the release is being held when pulling.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Greg,

Great tutorial! I can't wait to try it out. Wherecan I findBCY Nock Point Tying Thread? Also, what do you recommend for someone who isre-tuning their bow and may need to adjust the nock point several times before they lock it into place? Seems like it would be a pain tokeep tying and untyingthe nock points on every time I need to make an adjustment.

Thanks again!
-Rob

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

This is how i tie mine.(remember im 13).

Jim: Mom i need to go to the bow shop.

Mom: Ok

Jim: Can u put this on for me?

Shop Guy: Sure

Just kidding now i dont have to use my old method

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Rob, I bought several spools of that nock-tying thread, as well as my release rope, from a lady who goes by redcharm over on ArcheryTalk.com... she's got a thread in the classifieds that usually stays up near the top. Very reasonable, too... I think it's a couple bucks or so for a spool; that's why I said use the stuff liberally.

I know from experience that my Bowtechs are going to tune pretty well at an almost level nock point. Most solocams are going to start somewhere around 1/8" above level... If you know so that you can start fairly close, you can make the final tuning adjustments with your rest. For instance, I started off with mine exactly level using a laser and levels (see link in how I do that:http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=1684829&mpage=1&key=quick%2cbow& amp;#1684829), but ended up doing some minor fine-tuning with the rest's adjustments after shooting through paper and following up with walk-back tuning.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Greg, I missed reading this post until now. Very nice job and great pictures. I've always tied my string nocks with overhand knots - two layers thick. I like the looks of your method of serving them. I'm going to give that a try on my next one. Just one question - how easy are they to twist up and down the string to make adjustments? Do they stay together well if you have to make several adjustments?

The difference in mine - I always make a catfish loop - they don't stretch and are ideal when using string nocks and I leave about 1/8" gap between nocks (with arrow nocked) to help prevent pinch. Maybe I'll make it a point to do a pictorial of mine so people who've never tied one, can see how to tie the catfish loop.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Straight... Sorry, I've been gone a few days to help out at the Alabama Deer & Turkey Classic down in Birmingham.

To tell you the truth, I've never tried moving the nocksets after tying them on... As I wrote up above, I know pretty darn close where my bows are going to tune starting out, so when I make those knots where I leave the really long tag-ends, I CRANK down on those puppies by pulling with all my might; they're on pretty darn good. I suppose someone might be able to rotate one up or down the string, but I've never seen a need. Like I mentioned, I do my fine-tuning adjustments from the rest after that.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

I use a T.R.U nok , but might just try doing that myself .

Thanks Greg , for sharing your knowledge ;)

Dave

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Thanks again on another great how to. After reading one of your other how to's, I saw the levels that you were using where you clip them on your string...I went out and bought the asap and I would have to say that is probably the best $15 I spent on bow tuning accessories. I immediately saw better arrow flight and spent much less time messing with my bow trying to get it just right.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Yep very nice. Great job!

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

Bump for another round of newbies to our board! :)

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

BTT

I still think this should be pinned....this is some good stuff. Thanks again Greg.

RE: How to tie in nocksets and a D-loop
 

OK, John... you've talked me into it for, for a short time at least. :)