peep distance from nocking point
#1
peep distance from nocking point
Just got my bow back from the shop yesterday and they put a new peep on it for me. But the peep seems a little high. I thought the peep was right at 4 3/4" above the nock point before a new string was put on. The peep was put on at 5 3/4" I haven't gotten to draw back or shoot it yet, so I am not possitive that the peep is too high. What is the usual height rangeof the peep for you guys.
I need to write down all my measurements to check specs later down the road. Can someone also tell me was Tiller is and how I measure it?
I need to write down all my measurements to check specs later down the road. Can someone also tell me was Tiller is and how I measure it?
#2
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Blissfield MI USA
Posts: 5,293
RE: peep distance from nocking point
It varies for every person, this is why each set up is individual. And yes it is very good idea to measure these things and write them down. I am guilty of not doing it though. Just lazy I guess.
The best way to check your peep location is to draw the bow with your eye closed and then open your eyes. Your peep should be right there, you should not have to move your head around or bend in to see through it.
Paul
The best way to check your peep location is to draw the bow with your eye closed and then open your eyes. Your peep should be right there, you should not have to move your head around or bend in to see through it.
Paul
#3
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: peep distance from nocking point
Paul's right. It's different for everybody. Even different for the same person with different bows. For instance, the peep on my 46" axle to axle ProTec measures 4 5/8" from the bottom of the top knot on my string loop. On my 36" Bear TRX, it measures 6 3/4".
I use the same anchor for both bows but the short bow has a lot more severe string angle, so the peep has to be higher on the string in order to be at the right height for me to see through while aiming.
Unless someone just happens to shoot exactly the same length bow you've got with the same exact cam sizes, at the same exact draw length, uses the same exact release you do, has the same exact facial structure you've got and uses the same exact anchor, their peep sight location will very likely be different from yours. If it is the same as yours, it's pure coincidence.
Tiller.... There are two types of tiller, static and dynamic. Static tiller is simply the meaurement from each end of the riser to the bow string, or to a string stretched across the axles on a single cam bow. Setting it to measure the same on each end and forgetting about it is what most people do. Others, who really want to get the best their bow can give them, just consider that a good starting point. The next step is to work on dynamic tiller.
Dynamic tiller refers to balancing the power between the upper and lower limbs, making sure they both apply the same force to the bow string during the draw and release. This is complicated by the fact that - on most bows - your grip is below the centerline of the bow.
There are various methods to check and adjust dynamic tiller, but I prefer this one. It's down and dirty, quick and easy. Draw the bow while watching the sights. If it's out of tiller, it'll pull the sights one way or the other.
If the sights pull up, the top limb bolt needs backed off, or the bottom tightened, or both. If the sights pull down, loosen the bottom limb bolt or tighten the top one, or both.
After you've got it pulling straight and even, when you've got the bow's limb tension balanced in other words, readjust the nock point and procede with your usual tuning techniques.
I use the same anchor for both bows but the short bow has a lot more severe string angle, so the peep has to be higher on the string in order to be at the right height for me to see through while aiming.
Unless someone just happens to shoot exactly the same length bow you've got with the same exact cam sizes, at the same exact draw length, uses the same exact release you do, has the same exact facial structure you've got and uses the same exact anchor, their peep sight location will very likely be different from yours. If it is the same as yours, it's pure coincidence.
Tiller.... There are two types of tiller, static and dynamic. Static tiller is simply the meaurement from each end of the riser to the bow string, or to a string stretched across the axles on a single cam bow. Setting it to measure the same on each end and forgetting about it is what most people do. Others, who really want to get the best their bow can give them, just consider that a good starting point. The next step is to work on dynamic tiller.
Dynamic tiller refers to balancing the power between the upper and lower limbs, making sure they both apply the same force to the bow string during the draw and release. This is complicated by the fact that - on most bows - your grip is below the centerline of the bow.
There are various methods to check and adjust dynamic tiller, but I prefer this one. It's down and dirty, quick and easy. Draw the bow while watching the sights. If it's out of tiller, it'll pull the sights one way or the other.
If the sights pull up, the top limb bolt needs backed off, or the bottom tightened, or both. If the sights pull down, loosen the bottom limb bolt or tighten the top one, or both.
After you've got it pulling straight and even, when you've got the bow's limb tension balanced in other words, readjust the nock point and procede with your usual tuning techniques.
#4
RE: peep distance from nocking point
Pauls dead on
The way I do it is ,
Install the sight , shoot abunch of arrows with out a peep ,zero in the sight, tye a peice of serving around the string where I think it should go , draw the bow and move accoridingly untill its dead on , mark the string with white out ,install the peep , adjust the string untill the peep is perfect by taking out or adding 1/2 twist to the top or bottom cam , which ever is needed , if it takes more than half a turn your string is junk . A quality string goes on my bow before I ever start .
The way I do it is ,
Install the sight , shoot abunch of arrows with out a peep ,zero in the sight, tye a peice of serving around the string where I think it should go , draw the bow and move accoridingly untill its dead on , mark the string with white out ,install the peep , adjust the string untill the peep is perfect by taking out or adding 1/2 twist to the top or bottom cam , which ever is needed , if it takes more than half a turn your string is junk . A quality string goes on my bow before I ever start .