My new Bowtech Mighty mite is 63 lbs. at 27". Shooting a Easton Epic 500 at 26 1/2" and 100 gr. point. Total weight is 344 grns. My Parker feather mag shot these arrows at 61 lbs. and same specs as the Bowtech like darts. I can get them to tune but the Mighty Mite is slinging them noticeably faster and seem to be a little critacle. Should I cut the 500 to 25 1/2 which is not a problem with the Muzzy Zero Effect or go with the 400 epics. I have heard that once you get below 26",other problems start to creep in. Thanks for any help you can give me. Don

i don't seem to understand the problem, you said faster but more critical. what is more critical? that just might be the difference in bows, i.e. grip, brace, cam, etc. see if you could get your hands on some 400's and give it a try. my archery shop has a barrel of used arrows that anyone can do what they want with to try out a certain arrow before they buy.

Hey TECbownut, I am talking about forgivness. The 500 shot good but after 15 years of shooting, I can feel the difference if you know what I mean. I am tring to get the set up more forgiving. I know I have to make a change and can opt for the 400s or cut the 500 to give me a little stiffer spine.I don't have a place that will let me test arrows so if I try 400s, they are mine when I buy them. I was looking for some input on cutting the 500s to 25 1/2 " or going to a 26 1/2" 400s. I have heard that when you try to shoot very short arrows, you have some other issues. Don

Those arrows are weak,way weak according to the archery program. Like at the very end of the spectrum on the scale. 85 grn tips and 50 lbs of draw weight would put them at the right spine for that bow and draw length. If you wanted to stick with the epics, the 340 would be a better choice, the 400 if you droped to 60 lbs. The 340's would be 396 grns though with a 10% foc.

I was looking to see if something that would spine well would come up at the same weight or not, no luck so far, at least at that length and a 100 grn tip. Most are a little heavier or lighter. I don't know if I would suggest going much lighter. I will play a little more with different tip weights and see what I come up with. I assume you are using vanes, probably 3 inches by the overall weight of your arrow.

With the Parker Feather MagII it shows these arrows with a 100 grn tip and 61 lbs of draw barely in the green, but on the weak side, they are just about perfect with a 85grn tip.

You have to take into account that from bow to bow or manufacturer to manufacturer the cams effeciency changes. The bowtechs have very agressive cams and are very effecient at storing energy. That is why they are so popoular. But it also effects the spine of the arrow. Taking into account the better cam and the increase in draw weight, I am not surprised they are weak, especially when they were on the line to begin with. Actually when you take into account the extra weight on your string like nock, peep, and silencers they were probably dead on with the Parker. When you look at the arrow charts and they ask for cam type and it says wheel, medium, or hard. It should now read, medium, hard or BOWTECH!.

For a comparison, here are the specs for the two bows you comparing.

The parker has a performance factor of 1.1807 and the bowtech is 1.2585, with almost a 20 fps faster IBO rating.

Paul

The 400's at 26 inches and a 85grn tip would be perfect for spine, they would weigh around 355 grns, but the FOC is under 10%(9.7 according to the Program).

And I have not seen anything wrong with shooting short arrows, mine are 25 inches, but I would not suggest an overdraw to do it. The correct arrow length for a 27 inch draw would be 26.25. If you moved your rest back a little you get away with 25 inches. I don't think an inch or so would hurt things if you shoot well.

Paul

Paul, I'm using the Muzzy Zero Effect and my 26 1/2&quot; arrows are out past my rest by 3&quot; so I can cut them with no problem.I used the Easton chart on bowjackson to select the arrows for the Parker and check them with the Bowtech. Should I be using another sorce. I do agree that all charts should have a Bowtech cam type . This is why I picked the mighty mite, I needed some ump with my 27&quot; draw and 60 lbs. draw weight.Trying to find that magic arrow that will be quiet,manageable and give me tight pins. Sometimes I ask for to much<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> Don

I have been playing with the Archery Program for the past few days and it seems pretty cool so far. You can download for a 15 day free trial. I think I am going to buy it. I can't vouche for it's accuracy, but it is fun to play with.

It actually has most of the bows available right now in a data base with the specs and effeciency ratings. It uses these specs(mostly the effeciency rating) to figure spine for that particular bow. It also lists most of the popular arrows out right now. You enter what arrow length you want to use, your draw length, tip weight, and fletch weight and it will tell you if it spines correctly or will pick arrows that do.

It also calculates ballistics, sight tapes and other stuff. From what I can tell most of it seems to be pretty close. I would guess the owner visits this site, if not I know he does on Eders.

This is the site for the program: http://www.thearcheryprogram.com/index.html

If for some reason this does not post, or I was not allowed to do it, email me at [email protected] and I will give you the link that way. It takes alot of the guess work out of picking the right arrow and it will let you see what minute changes in your set up will do to spine and arrow trajectory. I know of other programs that will do some of this, but it is very cool to have the all the bows specs built into the program. You could aslo use it to shop for a new bow. It would be a very good way to compare performance from bow to bow. I do think my bow shoots a little faster than it says it does, but everything else seems to be accurate. I could be using it wrong also. But the spine calcalculator is very easy to use and figure out.

Paul

Thanks alot Paul, I'm going to check it out. Don

Paul-

Thank you for the help.....this makes life much simpler!

If your bows seems slow in the program I have found more often than not that you didn'a ctually measure the draw. Remember that the program uses AMO draw. This is measured to the pivot point of the grip from full draw, and then 1.75&quot; is added to this measurement. It seems a lot of people either use what the limb says(which can be off by as much as an inch or two!) or they measure true draw(whic is the same as above without the 1.75&quot which will give grossly slow calculations.

Enjoy the program, it has been in the works for 7 years now. I am constantly updating the databases to keep things new.

Happy Shooting!





>>>------Tony Virnoche------>>>
>>>---The Archery Program--->>>

It's not the draw, I'm dead on with that, well I may be quarter of an inch off, but I'm pretty close. I have not had my bow near a chrono in a while so I am just guessing at the speed thing. When I change my string and harness I will recheck all the specs and chrono some arrows, then compare it agian. It might just be me in denial. I came up with under 200fps for my current set up, not what I was hoping for. I have a few questions about the program though. If I think about it I will PM you at eders. No problems with it, just stupid things about some of the inputs. Like the distance from the peep to the sight pin, or peep to the arrow. I don't have a peep, I use a hindsite. Also when your figuring speed and spine, is there a way to take into account for the amount of weight on the string? Like for your peep and nock. If you used a peep with a tube and an ultra nock, that would be a lot of weight and would effect both factors.

So far I think the program is pretty cool though, the spine calculator is awsome. Much better than using the standard calculators and charts and then guessing if it will be right for your bow.

I figured you would comment here, thanks.

Paul