TFOX

Right now the bow is set at 28 1/4" and 58#.Archers Advantage shows them slightly stiff at 27" long but acceptable,especially for hunting.The foc calculator is way off on the program for the Stingers and Taditional lights.

davepjr71

TFOX,

I was starting to think that based on the rating of the shaft. Is there any program that would be worth trying?Or even your experience would help. I have a 30" draw length and am shooting 28.25" arrows at 65 to 70 lbs. I'm flexible with adjusting the weight in that range to get proper arrow flight.

Paul L Mohr

Yep, I used the Green, Orange and Yellows at different points. I haven't tried the traditional or .395's.

I'll be honest the arrows don't look all that great when you get them, and from what I understand the specs are not that hot either. Mine always spun true though, until they got messed up. That being said they flew absolutely great.

I think if I mess with them again I will use the uni bushings, because you are right, the nocks suck! I also want to mess with putting an aluminum sleeve in them. Much like I do with my 2213's. I found out that a 2016 shaft fits perfectly into a 2213, so I weight them down with those. I was thinking of finding an aluminum shaft that would fit in the front half of the Nitros, and then finding an insert that would fit in that shaft, but with a big enough lip to cover the outer carbon shaft. That way I could use hot melt glue for the insert in the aluminum shaft.

I don't know what sort of results I would get with this, but it would be worth playing with just for the heck of it. Probably end up being pretty expensive arrows by the time I am done though, which I really can't afford.

Paul

davepjr71

Paul,

You could try hot gluing, or supergluing,the insert for theNitros to the end of the aluminum arrow then sliding the insert in and gluing the insert and hot gluing the aluminum to the inside of the Nitro.

That probably would be the only way to cover the end of the Stinger and still get the weight near the end.

Paul L Mohr

That is what I planned on doing, but I need to do some research and see what insert would fit what shaft and I would need one larger in daimeter than the actual shaft I use so the lip covers the carbon from the Nitro as well. Not sure if it's even possible, but it might be. Won't be anytime soon anyway because of the money involved. And the lack there of I have at my disposal.

If the guy had them in stock he might let me play around and see what I could come up with, but I don't think he has them in stock.

I wish I would have kept some of my old ones, but I pitched them all when I moved.

Paul

davepjr71

What I meant is that you glue the aluminum to the end of the insert. Not overtop of it. The aluminum does not go over the insert but butts up against the end of the insert. Then slide both into the carbon. This way you do not need to have a big lip on the insert to cover both the aluminum and carbon.

passthru79

Oh my, I think I must have p*ssed in Arthur's wheates. Im sorry Arthur, didnt mean to offend. I was just a general statement not at all directed towards you. But hey, you know what they say. If the shoe fits wear it.

TFOX

I use Archers Advantage but there are several that are good.


I doubt the light trads would work for you but the regular trads might,even though they are both rated for up to 70#.


I wouldn't be afraid to call them and see what kind of results they have seen out of compounds with them.

davepjr71

Thanks TFOX. I'm interested in the tapered shaft that they have. The arcehrs advantage are the ones that do not seem to spine well no matter what. I'll give them a call. Especially to save $40 on shafts.

TFOX

Archers Advantage was the program,not the shafts.[8D]