Who the heck puts Smilin' Bob as their picture. That, sir, is funny.

After reading this thread, I realize what a complete bafoon I am in terms of tuning. Since I started hunting, and bowhunting with noone to show me what to do, I developed bad habits. I have/had no idea what I am doing sometimes in terms of tuning. I just shoot the hell out of my bow and adjust based on my groupings. It has kept me in the game so to speak but I know I can be a lot more accurate with my shooting, but in order to do so I must master the tuning process. This post will give me a logical start and flow through the whole process of tuning once I get my bow restrung. THANK YOU TFOX and others for taking the time to post all this knowledge.

I really enjoyed your info on walk back method of tuning. I am starting to really get into bow hunting and have a different way of thinking question. Why go from a bullethole centershot alignment, or as close as you think it is with paper tuning, and then microadjust the arrow rest when you could just move the bow sight at your predetermined farest limit when group tuning and therefore keep your centershot alignment and the bow's max energy behind the arrow instead of possibly causing off centershot alignment and therefore unwanted tears? Just a different way of looking at this. WOuldn't moving the sights accomplish the same thing in the group tuning. Thanks for any thoughtful response.

NO,you are moving the rest to the desired centershot position to be most forgiving to your shooting style.

To explain more why the centershot is so important,read this thread on nodes.

http://huntingnet.com/forum/technical/289760-nodes.html

Tfox thanks. I was going crazy tuning my Bengal. I'd get a perfect hole at 6' through paper, then a hard right tear at 10'. I got it as close as I could then went outside. Using my 20 yd pin, shot at 15, 20, 25 and 30 yds. I got almost a perfect 45 degree right line with those 4 arrows. Adjusted the rest out a little and tried again. Getting closer to vertical. Another adjustment and they were straight up and down. Moved the 20 yd pin to get it close then shot a broadhead and field tip. I did this 3 times just to verify consistancy and my BH was hitting 2" left of the FT. Moved the rest in just a tiny tiny bit (maybe about 1/64") and shot again 3 more times. BH and FT were within an inch or less of each other. Too bad it started raining. I am going to go to 30 yds and check again next time out. I rechecked shooting through paper again with the same results. Perfect bullet hole at about 6' but a straight right tear at 10'. This is really confusing because the arrows are shooting both FT and BHs in tight groups at 20 yds.
I've been shooting for a long long time now and this is the first time I ever heard of walk back tuning. I must have got real lucky with my paper tuning before cause my BH and FT were always close. But I always adjusted my sights for the BH and not the rest. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks?!?!

With the new speed bows I have found that you don't go by the charts. A program works ok and usually is 95% correct or better but the true test is "how it shoots"! I do what the fox does with the exception of walk back tune. I go straight to broadhead tune. For the hunter this is what he/she is after. I get the ft and bh to hit the exact same spot.
Pat

well said .......!!!!!!! This explains alot to me. I've been doing about 90% of what you've described. Your post will get me right where I want to be. Thanks for information..Don't live a lie, this is your one life
Don't live in lie
You won't get lost
Just walk, just walk...

It is the great.

Good post, TFOX. This explains alot to me. I've been doing about 90% of what you've described. Your post will get me right where I want to be. Thanks for the info.