help with arrow grain
#11
RE: help with arrow grain
ORIGINAL: ikillsdeer
thanks for all the help guys, so at 6 gpp. and a 70 lb bow, im looking for an arrow with a 340 spine, and 420 grain which for a 30 inch arrow would be 14 grains per inch right??? you guys are grats for taking the time to help people
thanks for all the help guys, so at 6 gpp. and a 70 lb bow, im looking for an arrow with a 340 spine, and 420 grain which for a 30 inch arrow would be 14 grains per inch right??? you guys are grats for taking the time to help people
Tip weight, insert weight, nock weight and fletching weight are not figured in with the shaft weight per inch number.
Once you add all of the extras into the mix the weight will climb.
Shaft grains per inch is a good tool to compare one shafts weight to another like spined shaft.
From reading your post I'm thinking the shop was recommending the spine. Just buy the FMJ's that spine right according to the charts/ program on Eastonarchery.com , add the fletch you wish to use and make sure they fly correctly our of your bow with a fixed head (if that is what you plan to shoot). Once all that is said and done you can weigh them to see what they weigh. One thing is for certain, they are on the heavy side so I don't think you will be anywhere close to 5 gpp.
After looking at eastons website- http://www.eastonarchery.com/productsPage.asp?show=fullMetalJacket
You are going to be at 422 grains with shaft and point alone (29" arra) start adding fletch (15) , insert and nock (25 gr) and you'll in the 465 range after glue. WOW, who'd a thunk it.
#13
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: help with arrow grain
Don't let anyone tell you that you need to shoot such and such arrow weight. Arrows are your tools, and you can change arrow weights to match the job you want to do.
All you want to do is shoot 3D and you want the flattest trajectory possible? If you're shooting IBO, then you'll go 5 grains per pound. If you're shooting an ASA event, you have to adjust your arrow weight and/or draw weight to regulate your arrow speed to 280 fps.
Say you're hunting griz from a treestand over a bait pile. You want maximum penetration on a big, tough animaland reasonbly expect shots no further than 20 yards. You might decide to use an arrow that weighs 700 grains, or 10 grains per pound on your 70 pound bow. Maybe even more.
Or you might simply decide to split the difference and choose to do all your shooting with one arrow weight and stick with something in the range of 7-8 grains per pound.
My personal choice for arrow weight on my compounds is around 8.5-9 grains per pound. 11-12 gpp on my longbows and recurves. Arrow speed is way down onthe list of things I consider important when choosing arrows. First and foremostare accuracy and consistency. I want that arrow to alwaysgo exactly whereI aim it and, as long as it does exactly that,I really don't care too much how long it takes to get there. It's my job to aim it correctly for the exact distance I'm shooting.
Just remember, you don't need the lightest, flattest shooting arrows if you know the exact distance to the target. That's why they make really good rangefinders, and buying one is a very good investment. Heckuvalot better investment than super light arrows and a new bow every year or two.
You also don't need the lightest, flattest shooting arrows if you refuse to shoot until you get the animal close. Again, unlike 3D, you can choose to get closer to the animal before shooting. My choice is to be within 30 yards before I even consider drawing the bow. That's my comfort zone and it's served me well for a long, long time.
All you want to do is shoot 3D and you want the flattest trajectory possible? If you're shooting IBO, then you'll go 5 grains per pound. If you're shooting an ASA event, you have to adjust your arrow weight and/or draw weight to regulate your arrow speed to 280 fps.
Say you're hunting griz from a treestand over a bait pile. You want maximum penetration on a big, tough animaland reasonbly expect shots no further than 20 yards. You might decide to use an arrow that weighs 700 grains, or 10 grains per pound on your 70 pound bow. Maybe even more.
Or you might simply decide to split the difference and choose to do all your shooting with one arrow weight and stick with something in the range of 7-8 grains per pound.
My personal choice for arrow weight on my compounds is around 8.5-9 grains per pound. 11-12 gpp on my longbows and recurves. Arrow speed is way down onthe list of things I consider important when choosing arrows. First and foremostare accuracy and consistency. I want that arrow to alwaysgo exactly whereI aim it and, as long as it does exactly that,I really don't care too much how long it takes to get there. It's my job to aim it correctly for the exact distance I'm shooting.
Just remember, you don't need the lightest, flattest shooting arrows if you know the exact distance to the target. That's why they make really good rangefinders, and buying one is a very good investment. Heckuvalot better investment than super light arrows and a new bow every year or two.
You also don't need the lightest, flattest shooting arrows if you refuse to shoot until you get the animal close. Again, unlike 3D, you can choose to get closer to the animal before shooting. My choice is to be within 30 yards before I even consider drawing the bow. That's my comfort zone and it's served me well for a long, long time.
#15
RE: help with arrow grain
Yeah, but that's finished weight. If you get a raw shaft that is 14 gpp, you will be way over thatmark. I shoot an ACC 3-60, which is a 340 spine, and at 29" w/ a 100 gr. point and with a wrap, my finished arrow weight is 425....