I had a problem with my Wac-em's diving on me. From everything I've read I should move my nocking point down. I tried doing that a little at a time and it moved my bh's up but also my fp's. They never seemed to come together. I moved it enough that I could tell just by looking at it that I was way out of whack. I also noticed a difference by using Lumenoks that I never noticed with my fp's. With the lumenoks the bh's seemed to fly more erratic but flying to the left alot of times. I'm one of those guys that just has a hard time shooting bh's. Some of my shots looked like the bh arrow was kicking horribly but the fp would fly fine so I know some of it is me. Could somebody please help me out with this. Any suggestions please!!!![:@]

If it was me, I'd start from the beginning. Getting proper arrow tune is the most important aspect of archery. Get a bare shaft and test for spine. If your spine is way off, you can tune until the cows come home, and you'll never get a good flying broadhead. After you have the spine adjusted - by changing tip weight, shortening the arrow or changing draw weight, you can also check nock height with the bareshaft test.

After you're done with the bareshaft testing, then walk-back tune the bow. Go back to at least 60 yards to get windage set accurately.

General keys to good broadhead flight are:

High FOC %. I recommend an FOC of at least 12%, especially for anyone who isn't very good at tuning and arrow. Higher is even better.

The fletching should be feathers attached with a helical twist. It is very important to get adequate drag on the rear of the arrow and to have the arrow spinning. Feathers are very good at this, plus they reduce the weight at the rear, which is also a good thing.

Arrows that are straight with broadheads that are attached perfectly straight. This is fairly easy to test at most archery shops.

Spine tuning: Very beneficial if you have the equipment to do it.

Don't worry for one second about what any of this does to arrow speed. It has no importance. All you should be concerned with, is getting your broadheads flying properly. If you do all this properly, your broadheads will hit very close to your field tips, even in breezy conditions.

Make sure your arrows are spined correctly , use enough fletching to stear your fixed blades , lose they luminocks [probably the bigest problem] they are junk

How exactly do I test for spine? And also why would I notice a difference with the lumenoks now when I never have in the past?? Thanks again.

If you have gone out of cetershot on your bow the extra weight of the Luminock will accentuate any problems you're having. Get your rig back to center shot and start over. When broadhead tuning the key word is that it is "fine" tuning; make very small adjustments. I generally can't slide a nock set down in small enough increments so I use the fine tuning adjustments on the rest, this is where the NAP 4000 and 3000 series rests really shine.

Are you asking about a spine tester to actually measure spine, or do you want to know how to bareshaft tune for spine?