nodog

I don't think you need to buy any more heads but the 125 will weaken the spine which if there isa spine problemit sounds like a weak one and the 4" vanes will offset the 125 head. I can't see how you are getting the arrows to fly left and right, should be one or the other. If the bow is tuned and the arrows are fine then it's either you or contact or a mechanical problem with the bow. You should be shooting just fine if all is well (not all heads fly crappy. The mussy's and mangus don't). The 340 @ 28" with a 100 head at your weight I would say is fine-stiff, but that should not be causing the wide fluctuation.The only thing I would buy is some new shafts. At your poundage you may just be shooting the spine out of them (you did say that they never did though, so maybe it's not the shafts). Most guys don't shoot all their arrows all the time. Maybe you should get a new dozen and onlypractise with 4 at a time and keep some fresh for when and if you think this problem isoccuring again. I don't think you need to buy anything else unless something is busted.

A well flying FP means something but not everything. A BH will tellus if itall is as we think it is and it's saying your a little off in your assumptions.

BGfisher

mac,

It'd be a better idea to try a different shaft---like a .300 spine instead of a .340. Your arrows are underspined. To try a quick rememdy you could turn the weight down on the bow about 5 to 8 lbs and see if they do any better. Then you'll have a choice of shooting the bow ata lower weight or getting stiffer arrows.

Chupacabras

Nodog has a good point about putting a few new arrows aside just for hunting. I am shooting epic 500 shafts 28.5 long at 60lbs. with 150 grain heads. These show to be way underspined but they still fly great out of my bow .
If you are using a drop away rest you might try turning your nocks a little to see if if it changes the arrow flight. I would also mark the arrows so that you can cull the ones that do not group.

nodog

A 340 from Gold tip is for a 7595 bow and is what I shoot out of my 70# Hoyt. No Problems.

ijimmy

Try more fletch , 5" feathers on an offset , and replace your nocks with new ones .
Do you spin check you broadheads for proper alignment ?

arrowshooter

Like said above, those 340's are just fine. Also agree that you need a minimum 4" fletch. With the 100's though your F.O.C. might be back too far. I would try the 125's first and see where you are, thenrefletch a few of you arrows with 4" Vanes. Should see a world of difference.Good luck.

extreme1

Again,your 340 spine arrows are fine for your setup.Try turning your limbs down a bit,maybe 1 turn ,check tiller and give it a try.Most bows like to shoot a heavier spine out of the setup,especially if it is borderline between spines.Your 's is fine though.
Another thing to try as well is set 6 of your best arrows aside,put your desired broadhead on and spin test them.Now shoot into the target and see what happens.Did the arrow hit the desired location on the target,if not and say it hits a little to the left then turn the nock ever so slightly to the left and try another shot,is it better.Often times it can be the nock as the culprit.
Is your rest dropping fast enough? Any contact of fletching will definately rob you of your potential accuracy.
If all else fails,then the only thing I can reccomend is buying a few arrows in the 340 spine,or equivalent on other manufacteur's arrows and try them.
Make sure centershot is dead on,tiller,cam rotation,and nock placement is perfect---good luck and keep us updated.

djkiller

Try Montec G-5's. I use there pratice tips that are like the broadheads. So I dont have to tune my broad heads when I switch from pratice blades. Fly the same.

Insatiable

i just went thru a similar problem shooting FMJ (340s). cut the fletching off one of the arrows that spin w/no vibration or wobble when held upright in your palm. stand about 15-20 yds (at first) and shoot into the target. watch the arrow flight. if it dovetails to the right or left badly, then move your rest 1/32" at a time try at first moving the same direction as to which way the pt is doetailing.

then shoot again, the object is to get the arrow to fly perfectly staight to the target with no dove tailing. if the nock end is way high when watching it fly the raise the rest by 1/32" at a time, if the nock hits the target lower than the fp the lower the rest a little.

keep this up until you can get the bare shaft arrow to fly perfectly straight to the target (normal drop expected due to distance etc.) from 30 yds out.

you may have to adjust your sight as you go through all this to keep the arrows on target. after finishing, shoot a few fletched arrows with field pts and get your sight correct, then try your bhs (any of the ones you mentioned).

insatiable

Navajo

Forget the paper tuning, do walk back tuning and then "group tune" your field tips and BH's, this will ensure the best results!!