I took a brief look at the test, and I would just add that arrow charts do not necessarily provide the exact correct arrow for the situation. What I'm saying is that an arrow chart should get you close, but not necessarily right on. For example, the proper spined (after personally tuning) arrow for my Darton is a 2216, however, if you look at a chart, this would be a very weak arrow for the setup. Now I believe this is due to the level nock travel, and the fact that I am shooting it at the exact centershot of the bow. But the chart will not even show a 2216 as an arrow to use. Longbow and recurve charts are not even close, I use a chart from a traditional website for that, and even then I have to experiment.

I can't say for sure whether the arrow they used was right or wrong, but I wouldn't use a chart for the "end all" descision on what size to use.

My broadheads were shoting high and to the right. I then read several places that mechanical broadheads fly more like target tips, so I tried them out. Sure enough...one shot and dead accurate! From what I understand, the razor blades act like "wings" and can have an effect on arrow flight. Mechanicals help imporove this problem because of the compactness. There are, however a few dis-advantages as well to the mechanicals. Might have been a coincidence, but worked for me. Just my two cents worth.

I shoot a single cam bow with fingersset at 68# with a 30" draw. My arrows are Easton Epic 300's cut at 30.5" with 4" Bohning Vaneson a2 degrees straight offset and 125 grn tips. I have been shooting for 40 of my 50 years and have never paper tuned or shot a bare shaft out of any of my bows, just adjusted until the "wiggle" was out of my arrow. I have Thunder Head 125's that up until now have only been on myarrows to walk in the woods, never shot. A couple of months ago I decided I would see how my broadheads grouped with my field tips. I first shot six field tips into my normal 2" group then shot six broad heads. Needless to say I had to refletch a bunch of arrows because they hit the same spot. I am not saying that I am that good, just lucky to have picked a broadhead that works with "my setup". So, maybe instead of going back and forth trying to get your setup to work with your broad heads, you should try getting a broadhead that works with your setup. I know, there are tons of options out there, but witha little research on web sites such as this, you could narrow that down quite a bit. You should also make sure that with that 75, 85 or 100 grn tip your F.O.C. is still proper. This has a grreat effect on how the arrow "lets" the broadhead be in charge.