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Tribute Rest?

Old 03-01-2006, 02:18 PM
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Default Tribute Rest?

I have just ordered a new Tribute and don't know what rest to get yet. Is anyone using a drop away that requires it to be attached to the down cable? If so did you have to deal with all that putting twists in or out of cables to get you let off right? I was told that it could lock up if not done right or was that only on the 05 Biniary cams?
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Old 03-01-2006, 03:28 PM
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Default RE: Tribute Rest?

I have a Trophy Taker. Great rest, no problems at all. Talked to the guys at Trophy Taker and Bowtech, no twists required. It is tuned perfectly and shoots bullet holes. I use this rest on every bow I have.

Shane
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Old 03-02-2006, 05:01 AM
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Default RE: Tribute Rest?

Did you check and see if you still had 80% let off with the Drop Away rest? Thats what I was worried about. Its good to hear that you have no trouble with a drop away rest with Binary Cams. I was a littleworried after all the crap that I have been reading about the Binary cams and putting twists in the cables and such just to get the let off right.
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Old 03-02-2006, 05:11 AM
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Default RE: Tribute Rest?

I have a Trophy Taker on my Tribute and so does my brother-n-law and no problems with either one of them. No issues with the twist on the cables either.
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Old 03-02-2006, 06:52 AM
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Default RE: Tribute Rest?

Well I heard back from Bowtech and they did tell me that the new 06 Binary cams have extra draw stops to keep the bow from "locking Up". They did say that putting a drop away rest on the down cablecan change the let off.
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Old 03-03-2006, 05:28 AM
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Default RE: Tribute Rest?

Tell us more about these "extra" draw stops.??????

Thanks.
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Old 03-03-2006, 01:03 PM
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Default RE: Tribute Rest?

I guess the problem was that if you tinkered around with the draw stops and such that the bow could go from 80% let off to around 100% let off and the bow could lock up. Bowtech told me that the draw stops on the 06 cams will not let this happen.
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Old 03-05-2006, 09:03 PM
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Default RE: Tribute Rest?

I will attach some of what Dave has given to us to read regarding what he has found about properly setting up Binary Cams.
These are just some quotes from him I compilednot in any realorder. So dont kill me I am just the messengerFor further info he has a multi page long dicussion over on Archerytalk.com in the Bow Tuning Section Warning Binary Cam Owners

"


I have stated many times before, when timing these bows it is necessary to get the string posts 1/16 inch from the face of the limb and then add 2 twists to the cable going to the top cam. If you don't add the 2 twists the bow will be at 65% letoff, even though the draw stop peg is set at the 80% position.

The letoff was increased by 15% by establishing a difference of 2 twists between the cams. When someone adds a fallaway rest 2 more twists must be added to restore proper letoff

Now let's say this person decides to remove the Windstalker and changes rests to a Whisker Biscuit and does not remove these 4 twists. Instant lockup

when you change strings and are installing new ones make sure your timing measurements are correct before drawing the bow, as if they are far out of spec you might lock it up. Remember you can adjust all you like with it out of spec, but don't draw it until your measurements show it to be in spec.

I haven't found changing the draw weight to cause problems with timing. I time these bows with draw weight at max. Regarding draw length, these cams are draw length specific. That is a 27 inch draw length cam is only for a 27 inch draw individual. You can change draw length very slightly as I have mentioned before, especially if you have added both a fallawy and a Windstalker cable guard. Instead of adding twists you could remove 4 twists from the cable to the bottom cam and shorten the draw length a little. Conversely you could add 4 twists to the cable for the top cam and lengthen draw length a little. Then again as I have said before, when adding these two you could add 2 twists to the cable to the top cam and remove 2 twists from the cable to the bottom cam and keep your draw length the same

(1) When installing a fallaway on a binary cam bow it MUST be timed to rise at the last 1/2 inch of draw cycle.
(2) When tying into the down cable you need to tie in 6 inches below the rest to avoid distorting the path of the cable which will cause nock travel problems
(3) After you have tied into the down cable and timed the rest check the Peak draw weight and holding weight of the bow. I think when you do the math you will find the letoff percentage is about 65%. When you then spread the cam timing where the top cam is retarded 2 twists compared to the bottom cam 80% letoff will return. This timing can be done in one of three ways.
If you would like to slightly lengthen your draw add 2 twists to the cable to the top cam, if you would like to slightly shorten it remove 2 twists from the cable to the bottom cam and if you are happy with your draw length add 1 twist to the cable to the top cam and remove 1 twist from the cable to the bottom cam.

It doesn't matter what the brand of the fallaway is. When they are tied into the down cable they exert pressure and therin lies the gremlin.
To put this in simplest possible terms you must add twists to the top cable or subtract them from the bottom cable until 80% letoff is restored.
DON'T GO PAST 80%.
When you go 2 or 3 twists past 80% lockup occurs. Comprende!!!
Now as to tying to the cable slide I haven't done that but if it ends up retarding the cable slide and reduces letoff you will have to restore the 80%.
The real key folks, if you haven't caught on yet, is establishing 80% letoff without going past that point. So proceed with your eyes wide open and with caution. Make sure you are in a situation where there will be no distractions when tuning these bows. The way my bow is presently set up the string post on the bottom cam is 1/16 inch outside the limb face and the string post for the top cam has the edge barely under the limb face. If the bow is very far outside those measurements don't draw it. When in doubt don't draw a binary cam bow.
(1) the cord should be tied in 6 inches below the rest to keep from distorting the route of the cable.
Think about it like this if you pull the cable sideways 1/2 inch toward the riser when you come to full draw it will act like your cable is shorter than it truly is .
Then when you release the arrow and tension on the down cable is relaxed as the arrow travels forward it becomes a significantly longer cable.
This brings about vertical nock travle issues and will cause you to have to set the bow up nock high to get it to shoot halfway decent.
These bows have very level nock travel so you really don't want to distort the route of the down cable and induce problems.
(2) The arm on the rest is supposed to be timed to bring the arrow all the way up 1/2 inch before full draw. If you bring it up sooner you will really create serious tuning issues. This is true of all fallaways and I know from talking to the folks at Trophy Taker they have experienced the same thing setting up an Allegiance. This is true of all the binary cam bows.
(3) I believe you will find after all this is done you will need to establish 2 turns of additional retardation to the top cam in order to establish proper letoff. To check this have your son go to a bow shop and have them check his peak draw weight and holding weight. If the bow is a 70# bow maxed out to 70#, the holding weight should be 14# if it is 24.5# it is at 65% letoff. How much the cables need to be adjusted is dependent on what the holding weight is. I'm assuming we are talking about trying to achieve 80% letoff.
I must begin by saying the draw length on these bows is supposed to be changed by going with different modules. While some draw length changes can be made with the cables we are only talking about + or- 1/4 inch at best. These modules are available in 1/2 inch increments.
The problem with trying to make significant draw length changes with strings and cables is you will throw the bow so far out of spec you will lose a significant amount of it's efficiency.
Let me give you an example.
Let's say we begin by timing the bow so that each of the string posts is 1/4 inch out from the front face of the limbs and then we add 2 twists to the cable going to the top cam. This bow should give no locking up problems because the top cam is only retarded 2 twists relative to the bottom cam as before. The draw cycle will now be shorter as the top cam rotates less before the draw stop peg hits the limb.
The problem here is that you use less of the available cam and lose energy.
Will the bow be safe to shoot that way. I believe so.
But I have to ask a question, if you didn't want to use all of the available energy produced by one of the most efficient cam systems on the planet, why did you buy a Binary Cam bow? There are many bows you could have bought for far less money, if the energy and the speed it produces weren't important to you.
Also when you do the above experiment your A to A will increase and your poundage will change by a small amount. Of course we could get ridiculous and time it so the string posts are 1/2 inch from the limb face then add 2 twists to the top cable. I just don't understand why we would want to do that.
Begin by getting you A to A correct, then take whatever twists are necessary in your cables to reach a point where the post the string attaches to is 1/16 inch from the front face of the limb top and bottom, then add 2 twists to the cable going to the top cam. That is the post closest to the riser and it is attached to the center track on the cam.
wants to gain draw weight and shorten his A to A by 1/8 inch. If he shortens it with cables alone his bow won't be properly timed. He will therefore need to take twists in his string and cables to accomplish what he wants. He has apparently experienced some stretching in his cables and strings.

Grouse is correct with the equation for % letoff

Draw weight minus holding weight, then divide by draw weight, then multiply by 100.

Example. 70 pound bow holding 14 pounds

70 - 14 = 56
56/70 = .8
.8 x 100 = 80 so 80%
Bring the rest full up at the last half inch of the draw cycle and tie the cord in 6 inches below the rest to minimize the effect on the down cable. When excessive pressure is put on the down cable you will decrease your letoff and induce vertical nock travel issues."
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