I have always just purchased my arrows cut to length. Although I do Crest and Fletch them. I have never had to cut them, but I am seeing some good deals on full length arrows. Other than purchasing a high speed arrow cutter, Does anyone have any advise. I am looking at Aluminum shaft.

I think the only other thing you would need would be a chamfering (sp?) tool to debur the inside of the shaft after you cut them. It's really quite simple, but a decent saw is rather expensive. But worth it, IMO. Building your own arrows is the bomb.

Hey WBowhunt. Years ago I bought a jig and saw kit to cut shafts. It came with a thin bladed hand saw and a jig to measure and hold the shaft while cutting. It works well but I imagine that it is not as consistant as a high speed abrasive saw. The cuts were square to the shaft and the inserts seated properly. I do not see them in Martin's website but it doesn't hurt to ask. The base of the jig has the word GEM right beside the patent number.
Good luck.

I just started playing with this idea also. I learned that a 25,000 rpm 90 degree pneumatic die-grinder with a very thin (.010)cut-off wheel zips right through a carbon arrow. Measure and then tape shaft on each side of cut mark to aid you while cutting shaft and to protect surrounding area. Don't hesitate when cutting the shaft, if you do the cut-off wheel will bounce on shaft and make marks on your arrows. Once you know where to cut, run the tool at full power and drive it right through the shaft quickly.

I then will use the G5 squaring tool to get the arrow ends square. Do not sit there with the grinder on arrow end and try and square the ends. You will generate too much heat and in my opinion melt the resin from carbonand weaken the arrow shaft.

I already had a 1/4 inch carbide debur bit, that is razor sharp. Thefront of bitis .236 and the base/back end of bit goes up to .249.I debur by hand twisting. I do not recommend placing debur bit in a power tool, like my local shop does...it's too easy to debur too much and get a loose insert or nock. Plus you can easily getthe biton an angle and make cut marks 1 inch up inside the shaft due to tight tolerances. If you debur by hand you can get a snug/perfect fit for your inserts. Once you figure out how deep the bit needs to go to get the right tension on inserts or nock, wrap a piece of masking tape around bit so you can duplicate the same debur depth on each arrow.

so you don't think a good ole chop saw would do the trick? ha

i think it will be fine

MilDotMaster,

How do you like that G5 ASD tool? I have been looking at it but I just can't seem to get myself to spend $35 on it! Is it worth it?

Thanks.

kpsingleton

I worded my previous post very carefully...I stated "I then will use"...meaning it is on order. I don't have it yet. I have been practicing cutting up my Carbon Tech shafts with die grinder and it has been making good clean cuts. When the G5 comes in I will test it out. I'm sure it will work just fine since Tim from GT uses it with great results.

A die grinder? I guess if you have a compressor and a die grinder it might work but I think a chop saw with an abrasive wheel would be much better and cheaper. You would just have to rig something to hold the shafts near the point of cut so the shafts do not chatter.

I just bought a saw off ebay $27 brand new. Spend the money. Arrow shafts are spendy.