I just started playing with this idea also. I learned that a 25,000 rpm 90 degree pneumatic die-grinder with a very thin (.010)cut-off wheel zips right through a carbon arrow. Measure and then tape shaft on each side of cut mark to aid you while cutting shaft and to protect surrounding area. Don't hesitate when cutting the shaft, if you do the cut-off wheel will bounce on shaft and make marks on your arrows. Once you know where to cut, run the tool at full power and drive it right through the shaft quickly.

I then will use the G5 squaring tool to get the arrow ends square. Do not sit there with the grinder on arrow end and try and square the ends. You will generate too much heat and in my opinion melt the resin from carbonand weaken the arrow shaft.

I already had a 1/4 inch carbide debur bit, that is razor sharp. Thefront of bitis .236 and the base/back end of bit goes up to .249.I debur by hand twisting. I do not recommend placing debur bit in a power tool, like my local shop does...it's too easy to debur too much and get a loose insert or nock. Plus you can easily getthe biton an angle and make cut marks 1 inch up inside the shaft due to tight tolerances. If you debur by hand you can get a snug/perfect fit for your inserts. Once you figure out how deep the bit needs to go to get the right tension on inserts or nock, wrap a piece of masking tape around bit so you can duplicate the same debur depth on each arrow.