Broadhead tuning
11-20-2005, 11:23 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Broadhead tuning
Ok, bear with me here. Lets say your bow is paper tuned great. bullet holes thru paper. But you throw some 100gr thunderheads on and its hitting 3" lower than the fields at 20 yards.Spin testing show no wobble. Questions
1. Is the bow still not tuned up even though paper and bare shaft says its fine?
2. Or are you fine tunning with broadheads. And broadhead tuning is really more accurate?
3. Or you do nothing besides compensate your sights. Your just accomindating more frontal force and compensating by adjusting higher with broadheads.
I don't want to mess with my tune if its really tuned up well. But thinking fo moving my loop down 1/4". I hate moving loops however.
Thanks guys.
1. Is the bow still not tuned up even though paper and bare shaft says its fine?
2. Or are you fine tunning with broadheads. And broadhead tuning is really more accurate?
3. Or you do nothing besides compensate your sights. Your just accomindating more frontal force and compensating by adjusting higher with broadheads.
I don't want to mess with my tune if its really tuned up well. But thinking fo moving my loop down 1/4". I hate moving loops however.
Thanks guys.
11-20-2005, 11:39 AM
#3
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Burleson TX USA
Posts: 6,455
RE: Broadhead tuning
I dont use paper at all in the tuning process, too many people think if they get a bullet hole they are done tuning.
Paper should only be the starting point of the tuning process not the end.
Download the Easton Tuning Guide it will have more than enough info on how to properly tune your bow
Paper should only be the starting point of the tuning process not the end.
Download the Easton Tuning Guide it will have more than enough info on how to properly tune your bow
11-20-2005, 03:40 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Broadhead tuning
Yep, thats where I have been working off offor years and years, but it doesn't asnwer my question. But what I am asking aussie is broadhead tuning more precise than bare shaft? Do you know the answer. Easton does not say.
But don't worry, I made an adjustment of 1/4" on nocking position and now I am hitting the same as thunderheads. And it seems to be flying better with field points. Just hopeing some on of you tuning guys could confirm I what I am see sounds right.
But don't worry, I made an adjustment of 1/4" on nocking position and now I am hitting the same as thunderheads. And it seems to be flying better with field points. Just hopeing some on of you tuning guys could confirm I what I am see sounds right.
11-20-2005, 04:26 PM
#5
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Blissfield MI USA
Posts: 5,293
RE: Broadhead tuning
It is questionable which is actually more precise. Bareshaft tuning is actually for finger shooters to determin the proper spined shaft for thier set up. However it works very well for release shooters if you want your arrow as straight as can be off the rest.
There are two schools of thought on this one. One will say if you are going to shoot fixed blades, tune with them. That assures you the arrows are going where you want them in the configuration you want them in when hunting.
The other school will say that you actually detune your bow when trying to make fixed blades group to the exact same point as field points. The thinking that bare shaft tune, walk back tune and group tuning will give you the best tune. Once you get it as good as you can leave it alone. If it shoots different with fixed blades simply adjust the sights a little bit, it shouldn't be too far off.
I am kind of inbetween the two. I bare shaft tune and then will check to see how it shoots with fixed blades. Depending on far off it is I may adjust it, or I may not. The most important thing to me is that the arrow flies and impacts straight. I am not going to sacrifice this to get the the hunting arrows to impact exactly with the target arrows. If they are a little off I will either move the sights or compensate for it when hunting. I am more concerned with how they group, not where they hit. That is an easy fix.
Paper tuning is a nice beginning to see if anything is way off, but by far the end of the process. Like Aussie, I rarely even mess with it. I eye ball everything when setting it up and then bare shaft tune from there starting at 10 yards and working back.
I say if your windage is good and you are shooting a bit low change your nocking point sligtly and see what happens. You can move your rest instead of your loop if you want. Just move the rest in the opposite direction you would move the loop. Remember to do it in very small amounts though.
You could also try using more fletch, sometimes that helps. The less fletching you have the more criticle your tuning becomes.
Paul
There are two schools of thought on this one. One will say if you are going to shoot fixed blades, tune with them. That assures you the arrows are going where you want them in the configuration you want them in when hunting.
The other school will say that you actually detune your bow when trying to make fixed blades group to the exact same point as field points. The thinking that bare shaft tune, walk back tune and group tuning will give you the best tune. Once you get it as good as you can leave it alone. If it shoots different with fixed blades simply adjust the sights a little bit, it shouldn't be too far off.
I am kind of inbetween the two. I bare shaft tune and then will check to see how it shoots with fixed blades. Depending on far off it is I may adjust it, or I may not. The most important thing to me is that the arrow flies and impacts straight. I am not going to sacrifice this to get the the hunting arrows to impact exactly with the target arrows. If they are a little off I will either move the sights or compensate for it when hunting. I am more concerned with how they group, not where they hit. That is an easy fix.
Paper tuning is a nice beginning to see if anything is way off, but by far the end of the process. Like Aussie, I rarely even mess with it. I eye ball everything when setting it up and then bare shaft tune from there starting at 10 yards and working back.
I say if your windage is good and you are shooting a bit low change your nocking point sligtly and see what happens. You can move your rest instead of your loop if you want. Just move the rest in the opposite direction you would move the loop. Remember to do it in very small amounts though.
You could also try using more fletch, sometimes that helps. The less fletching you have the more criticle your tuning becomes.
Paul
11-21-2005, 07:12 AM
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: WEST PALM FLORIDA
Posts: 2,890
RE: Broadhead tuning
Paul has given excelent advise here , as far as weather to move the rest or your nock point , I would move which ever one brings the center of the arrow shaft closest to the center of the rest mounting hole .
As to which is more accurate , I think that will very between bow to bow , some will tune best with the field tips and broadheads hitting close to , or in the same hole, as each other and others , they will be slightly apart . For me it is usealy in windage though , nock point should be very close .
Another point is that many target archers seem to get their best groups with a slightly high , and to the right setup with field points , and with broadheads I think that will open your groups up .
The point about adaquate fletching to stear a broadhead equiped arrow is dead on .
As to which is more accurate , I think that will very between bow to bow , some will tune best with the field tips and broadheads hitting close to , or in the same hole, as each other and others , they will be slightly apart . For me it is usealy in windage though , nock point should be very close .
Another point is that many target archers seem to get their best groups with a slightly high , and to the right setup with field points , and with broadheads I think that will open your groups up .
The point about adaquate fletching to stear a broadhead equiped arrow is dead on .
