ranchand99

You definately can not go under 5gr per pound.300gr for a 60lb,and 350gr for a 70lb bow.Anything less than that will be like dry firing the bow,and can make any number of terrible things occur.Primarily Damage limbs,and cams.If the bow is slow even with a light arrow,like the older wheel style bows,or anything shooting under 260fps.I would consider a little heavier arrow than what I'm shooting.But with the faster bows say270+fps I feel like you can get away with a lighter arrow.Alot of the guys have told you right about more energy,and less noise from a heavier arrow.But how much is enough?Honestly I always recommend 6gr per pound.So for a 60lb bow that would be 360gr,and for a 70lb bow that would be 420gr.That is a perfect blend of speed,and energy.I was proving a point earlier,about how light you can go,and still have a very effective arrow.If you have a well balanced arrow(f.o.c. around 9-10%),that is around 6gr per pound,and have a sharp broadhead.You really don't need to worry about anything else,except where to put the pin.I shoot light,but I know alot of people are leery of being too light.If you would like I can help you find a set of arrows that will match your bow.Or you can check this site out they have an arrow weight chart for alot of todays arrows.It also has a f.o.c. calculator,and ke calculator.Hope I helped.

http://home.att.net/~sajackson/archery.html

bdu33

^^^^Let me try and answer that one. To light means that the energy that your bow makes is too much for the "toothpick" you attempt to release. This "could" result in the arrow shattering, and poosibly damage your limbs. Your bows energy isn't being "harnessed". Put a larger "toothpick" on the string and let the bow do the work...along with the arrow. Cool?

bdbwtie101

you guys hit on alot of things i never even knew about. i always went into a sporting goods store and they asked if i wanted lite medium or heavey. never new of f.o.c and have no idea how to figuire it out and what it means when shooting, well i didnt really even know of shaft stiffness. and yets its so confusing. I quess that is why my bow doenst shoot the best, lol.

ranchand99

It is confusing to start with,but you can understand it.The acceptable range for f.o.c. is 7-15%.With 9-10% being goal.What that means is that the arrow is 7-15% heavier towards the front of the shaft.You have to have the front of the arrow heavier or it would fly backwards.Just like throwing knives.Any way you release it the heavy part hit's first(on tuned knives anyways).If the front is too light the end of it will try to come around to the front.You will see it as unstable flight as the arrow "flips" "kicks out",or makes circles.What is happening is the front isn't heavy enough to maintain stable flight,and as the back end is trying to come around the fletchings are fighting to keep the arrow stable.That's another reason why it is more evident with broadheads rather than field tips.The larger a broadhead is the more wind resistance it makes,and therefore makes a harder job for the fletchings to maintain proper flight.When you have unstable flight like that the arrow loses speed,and when it hits the target in all likely hood it will be trying to come atan angle as the arrow enters awkwardly.Instead of hitting straight on,and transfering the energy to the target it will be losing energy trying to maintain flight.Like trying to hit a cue ball as hard as you can,from a bad angle instead of straight on.

If an arrow has too high of an f.o.c. it will drop sooner.All things being perfectly equal you can actually gain yardage from a properly balanced arrow,because flight is stable,and it isn't like sticking a piece of bubble gum on the end of a straw(too high% f.o.c.).It will shoot flatter.That will help your pin spread.But in a way it is better to have a higher % f.o.c. than too light of one.You'll just have to use more pins..I prefer to have mine balanced,rather than front heavy.Most people here seem to prefer front heavy arrows.If I'm wrong I'm sure someone will correct me.

Orions_Bow

I would never shoot lower than what the bow manufacturer states in the owners manual. with that said the general idea is 350 grain arrows @ 70lbs. I personally would not go much below 380 grains for hunting deer size animals or smaller.I think 400-450 grains is a great range to be in out of most setups today if you are shooting 65 to 70 lbs.I agree with the others, I like a little heavier head for FOC balance & extra KE....125 is ideal in my opinion and if you match your shafts up correctly in the charts most hunting shafts will put you in that range as well.

Good Luck

bdbwtie101

alright so i get the idea that the front has to be heaveir, but how do you figuire this out. inst the feild tip of BH heaveir then the fletching. Will my local pro shop now how to figuire this out. I'm interested in finding out everything that i can, obviously i wanna make it the best shooter that it can be. that way i can only blame myself, lol . anyways right now i am shooting a Bowtech Patriot set at 70 pounds with probably a 30 inch draw which is a tad to long. I'm shooting a fall away rest with a release. I have a dozen Carbon express Terminator hunter arrows "6075" that are 30.25 inches from tip of feild tip to the end of nock. They have 125 grain heads. I also am shooting aluminum Eastons XX75 Gamgetter 2 2117 that are 31.25 end to end. The carbons came with the bow and the aluminums are from a previous bow. Neither fly perfect with the rear going in a round motion. My be just my shooting skill or lack there of. I had the bow paper tuned this fall. i think that neither of these arrows are prolly correct. I can hold alot better group with the aluminums but the tend to drop faster then the carbons. I would like to get some new arrows that are dialed in for my bow. I cant decide if i like aluminum better or carbon, from what i have heard it is just a personal preference. What would be some arrows in carbon and aluminum that you would suggest as there is somemany out there. I am thinking about getting some that are set up as a lite setup and some medium to heavy to see what i like better. Thanks for all the info and help guys!

ranchand99

Jackson's has a f.o.c. calculator.1st thing you must find out is if you are within specs..If you are,and the f.o.c. isn't too light then it's most likely another tuning problem.Your CX terminators weigh approximately 495 gr with a 125gr tip.The f.o.c. on that arrow is 9.5%.That's good..First of all you really don't need that long of an arrow.The arrow should be cut so that 1" of it is past the rest(not including tip).The aluminums you are shooting weigh approx. 564 gr!The f.o.c. for that combo is 8.7%...a hair low,but still acceptable.Aluminums are always going to be heavy.If you want to go with light I suggest the CX maxima's.That's what I'm using.If you want some around the 6gr per pound range go with the Easton Axis.They are both very high quality arrows.I would double check my bow for tuning problems.Since your f.o.c. is not a problem.Also I would go with a shorter arrow.Hope I helped.Let me know if you have anymore questions.

http://home.att.net/~sajackson/archery.html

G2 Shooter

It sounds like you may have a lot of issues going on here. First of all, where did you buy the bow from? You should have your draw length checked and adjusted correctly before you start changing or buying anything. If you bought it from a dealer, they should adjust it for free. If you bought it somewhere else, you may have to buy a new cam. After that, take your Carbon Express arrows and cut them to the correct length. Once that is done, you should check for fletching clearance. The Bowtechs shoot so fast that a lot of rests do not get out of the way fast enough and sometimes your fletching will hit them. What rest are you using? After you have eliminated any clearance problems, then I would paper tune. Adjust the rest and/or nock to get that correct and then start shooting at your target. Switch between field tips and broadheads to see where they impact and adjust your rest again if needed to have them hit the same spot. After that, you should be shooting well with those arrows which I would call "heavy." They weigh 12 grains/inch. I wouldn't mess with a light arrow this year as you would have to re-adjust your bow. Next year, you can start messing around with some lighter arrows to see which you prefer.

Another tip would be to read everything you can about archery and bowhunting. There is a lot of great info on this site about equipment, bowtuning and form. I've been shooting for 20 years and have learned a lot from this site in the past year.

bdbwtie101

wow that explains alot! I bought the bow off of ebay. i went in to have it set up for me and i thought that they did a pretty good job except notice my draw length since it is too long because i am sucking on the fletchings while anchored. i didnt know that this was wring at the time. we did paprer tune at like 10 yards at it seemed to shoot pretty good. I do not plan an changing anything until gun season i just wanna figure everyhitng out now. It was mentioned that my fletching may be hitting my rest. I am shooting a guick tune by NAP. If this is a problem how do you know. thanks again for the help

midwestxpress

Man, way too much figuring for me. I look at the arrowmanufacturer's chart and buy what I need. Too much thinking has gotten me in troubletoo many times.