Question for the coach
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: North Carolina USA
Posts: 46
Question for the coach
I know there's an archery coach that posts here occasionally and I have a grip problem for you. I shoot a Mathews MQ1 that I dearly loved except for the grip. Since the aftermarket one's were outrageous, I modified the original. I reduced the wood down to approx. 1/4" all the way around made the heel almost flat. I was pleased with the results and was shooting 2" groups at 40 ydsfor awhile. Then I started having problems ocassionally pulling arrows left and I wondered if I've overdone the low wrist thing and magnifying inconsistency in bow hand/arm torque.(My wrist produces a pretty sharp angle between my hand and bow arm at full draw) I would have thought this would produce vertical "stringing" if anything, but this hasn't been a problem. The problem is predictably worse in the mountains where I hunt so much so that I run my pin 2 clicks out up there and back in when I get home, but I can't thing of any rational explanation for that. I have a Mathews improved factory grip, but it just feels "fat" now. By the way, I may get a new bow next year I was wondering who, in your opinion, made the best grips for those who prefer low wrist and narrow as possible. I even used to shoot a Hoyt Alpha-Tec off the riser because I learned the hard way that the most comfortable grip isn't always the most accurate.
#2
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Woodhaven, Mi USA
Posts: 166
RE: Question for the coach
old....as far as the new grips check out Shrewd. They make "skinny" grips that you can order the type you want (high wrist, med., or low wrist). If you didn't modify your grip on the palm side you might want to do so. You want to make it skinnier, may be causing torque. Couple of other schools of thought...Draw length. In my experience, a too short draw will cause occasional lefts. Too long will cause occasional lefts and rights. You might want to try to adjust just a little to see if it helps. Different bows with different ata will require a different draw length to "feel" the same. I know my MQ1 needs to be hard to the wall when I draw, or it is inconsistant for me.
#3
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Woodhaven, Mi USA
Posts: 166
RE: Question for the coach
One other thing....don't forget about the push-pull effect while holding. You need to have a balanced push-pull while at full draw. If you give too much push with your bow hand, it will also cause lefts. (that's where the too short draw comes into effect)