String loop fails
 

How many of you out there had one fail, meaning the knot pulled through and you may have punch yourself in the face and had an arrow sail away. I shot about 200 arrows through my new switchback when it happened. This is my first experience with the sting loop. I don't want this happening when drawing on a big buck. Was my bow shop just incompetent or are they known to fail.

RE: String loop fails
 

I have one, so does my wife and one son. I have also tied a bunch for others, as far as I know none of them have ever come untied.

RE: String loop fails
 

I have seen some different materials used. Some last alot longer than others. Just keep an eye on it, if it appears to be fraying, or the end looks like it is getting close to pulling through, then replace it. They are easy to replace.

RE: String loop fails
 

I have not had one pull through yet. (knock on wood) Just make sure you burn the end and make a BIG mushroom there and it should be fine.

RE: String loop fails
 

The camo stuff from Brownell's is the best I used. Lasts a long time, especially if you keep it waxed really well. Sounds to me like whoever tied the loop didn't do it right or didn't melt a big enough ball onto the end that pulled through.

RE: String loop fails
 

Yes, I busted myself in the chops a few weeks ago. Felt good. The burnt knot pulled thru. A cool bloody lip and I found the arrow about 200 yds. away. Been using one for several years and this was a first.

RE: String loop fails
 

Been there done that, It hurts like heck, just hope nobody seen you!!LOL

RE: String loop fails
 

I've been tinkering with a string loop on my backup bow. I've been hesitant on putting one on my primary bow because they make me nervous. Too many times have I heard of the loops coming undone at the absolute worst time.

RE: String loop fails
 

I wholeheartedly agree on that one!!

RE: String loop fails
 

ive had one fail last fall will drawing on a doe,,after that i switch a hard loop and have not looked back

RE: String loop fails
 

If it is slipping then it was improperly installed to begin with. Simply burning the ends of a loop will NOT put enough of a "end" on the loop to prevent it from sliding through the knot. Most standard, pre-made loops are not long enough! I custom make loops for my customers and make them longer than normal so that I can actually burn the ends and THEN tie each end in a knot, and THEN tie the loop on the string. Unless you fray or physically cut the loop or string, it can't come loose or untie. That is the ONLY way one should be installed. Relying on a friction knot and some burnt nylon isn't enough when you consider the pressure a string/release is under while drawing and shooting a bow. It sounds funny and luckily you only have a fat lip to show for it, but a worse potential is your hand flying back and hitting you in the face while your release hits you in the eye and takes it out!!! [:@]

Be careful and tell your local bowshop to "get with the times" or find another one who is concerned with their customers personal safety!
RA

RE: String loop fails
 

A few years ago one of my shooting buddies was telling me about a new sorce for his loops. He had used some of the sting from his wife's window blinds! Worked o.k. on his 45# target bow but the 70# Mathews was a differant story! It is funny looking back on it now as he sucker punched himself in the nose after we all told him it would probaly break on the draw. Some people learn the hard way. I tie a small sheeps foot knot on the tag end of my loops and have not had one to fail in 15 years.

SF

RE: String loop fails
 

Red,

I like the idea of the knots on the ends, as anything less than a break, the knot won't fail. I have a couple of questions though.

1. I like a very short loop. is there any way of tying a short loop? the only way I can see is to, first tie it,THEN make the end knots and burn.,I don't know if I like the idea of having to burn the ends while it's on the bow.

The way you describe it (by burning and tying the end knots first) there would be no way to make a short loop because of the length that would be needed to clear the end knots.

2. Is there any clearance issues (the tied ends touching the arrow nock) with the end knots for those who don't use any kind of string or brassnock? (string loop only) I serve on a nock sothe string loop is tied far enough away from the arrow, but some just use the string loop as their nock sets

RE: String loop fails
 

I have not had a loop pull through, however last weekend ata 3D shoot I had a loop that was worn excessevely slip between the jaw on my Ultra Xtreme with the talon head. This was my own fault though, I knew it was getting beat up and kept shooting it anyhow. I have never had one pull through though........

RE: String loop fails
 

Thanks alot guys now you got me worried.:D

RE: String loop fails
 

Why worry it really feels good. I was in a good mood all day long after I busted myself in the mouth. Makes you feel alive and vibrant.:D:D

RE: String loop fails
 

they are cheap....replace often

RE: String loop fails
 

I am partially with RA on this. If the loop is slipping through then it wasn't tied on properly. However I do not agree that you must tie another knot to keep it from slipping. I have been using a loop for about 13 years now and have never had one of mine slip through. I have tie hundreds of these loops on for customers and have never had one of those come untied. I have never tied an extra knot on the tag ends.

#1 the right material makes a big difference. The camo material from Brownells is the best. It is 100% nylon for the sleeve as well as the core and as such makes a very nice ball on the end that will not pull through. Some loop material is made of nylon for the sleeve but uses a filler for the core of the string. This is very weak and does not melt a ball very well at all.

#2 is how you burn the ends. Simply cutting it and burning it will not be good enough. You must cut the string and then fluff then frayed end with your finger and then melt it going in circles around the fray so that you get an even and centered ball on the end. If you get a good melted ball you do not need to flatten it with the lighter as this will only make the ball skinny and weaker.

#3 is tying the knots. See the picture below. Notice that the loop goes over each side of the string. This is so that the loop pulls evenly on each side and does not have a tendancy to roll the string when drawing. If you tie the knots as I have illustrated then you should not have one slip on you. These knots pull tight on themselvs when under strain and only get tighter.

#4 To tie the loop cut a length about 6" long or so. Fray and burn one end before you tie any knots. After it dries tie one of the knots on the bow string leaving the other end long. Pull the tied end as tight as you can by hand. Now tie the other side and pull it snug but not too tight. You need a small ammount of slack to form the loop. Cut off the end about 3/8" long. Fray and melt the end to form the other ball. Now take needle nose pliers and insert into the loop and opne them up with force to form the loop.

#5 do not use super glue on the loop. It is bad for the fibers of the bow string as it will make them brittle and may cause them to break.

RE: String loop fails
 

Here is the picture

RE: String loop fails
 

Bigbulls is 100% right about this. If you follow the procedure he outlined you won't have to worry about a loop slipping. I've used loops at least as long as he has and have never had a problem either. I've found that the blue loop material that Zenith Archery sells to be top notch. It forms tighter hitches than any other material I've tried. The only way I can get the Zenith loops off my bowstring is to cut them off.

RE: String loop fails
 

that is some good loop material, but won't work with a tru-ball release that has a head. it slips thru the jaws. you have to be careful burning the ball on the end. that is what i'm guessing happened. you don't want it bubbling, just melting. it it starts bubbling it'll end up brittle and can break.

RE: String loop fails
 

I still don't think there is any way of getting a small loop if you tie knots in the ends unless it is done on the string and like I said before I am not comfortable with doing that. I tie my loop just like Bigbulls showed and never had a slip.

RE: String loop fails
 

I use the blue loop material from Zenith Archery , it works great. I think I paid $3 for 6 feet of it.

RE: String loop fails
 

BigJ12 If you do it just like bigbulls then don't you burn the second knot while it's on the string. I usually tie it loosely with slack then undo it and cut it tothe perfect length and burn both ends. When I re-tie and make the loop extremely small so i can use the slack to tie the know when I pull the knot tight it is perfect length. You have to be farily dexterous to do it this way but then you don't have to burn it while on the string.

RE: String loop fails
 

thenuge15,

I'm not sure by your post if you tiethe extra "safety knots" or not. I personally don't, I tie mine just like bigbulls does. I also like a very small loop and I cut mine to 4in then I burn the ends so the actual string is just a shade under 4in. I then tie it anound a served on nock.

If you can picture this in your mind, after I tie one end to the bow string and get it pretty snug, I lay the string loop along the bow string to the spot I want to tie the other end. I then tie the other end. It takes some time because there is not alot of material to work with but when both ends are tied there isonly enough room to put a screwdriver blade between the string loop and the bow string. I pull slightly with the screwdriver shaft (round one) to get enough room to attach my release. I then slowly start to pull it tight with my release checking to make sure the knot is tight and the burned ends are "locked" in.

When it's all done and tight, there will be just enough room for my release and a nocked arrow.

My original question was how to you get a loop that short without first tying the loop on then tying the "safety knots" and burning. This would have to be doneafter the loop is attached.

RE: String loop fails
 

I use the same tie method Big Bulls shows on mine,have used my loop over 4 months now without any problem,,the package my loop came in showed the same tie method, burnish the ends, tie a knot on each end of your string,follow the illustration,snug everything upso there is no slippage.

RE: String loop fails
 

Guys I do not burn both ends before tying the loop. One is burned before tying and the other is burned when finished tying.

I burn one end into a ball and tie that side on my bow string and pull it as tight as I can with my hand. Then tie the other side on the opposite side of the bow string, pull this side snug, cut the tag end about 3/8" long and fluff and melt that side. Then stick a needle nose plier inside the loop and open them up to pull the loop very tight on the bow string.

The pliers gets everything tight instantly and you don't have to draw back a bunch of times with a screw driver until the release will fit. Open up the pliers and you are done.

Doing it this way will be much quicker and less frustrating that trying to do it with both ends already melted. Especially if you have large fingers. The loop is tight and just long enough to get a release behind the nock with out touching it.

RE: String loop fails
 

bump

RE: String loop fails
 

Tie a clove hitcch instead of a saddle hitch.

RE: String loop fails
 

Never had one fail

RE: String loop fails
 

RE: String loop fails
 

The clove hitch is the one on the left.It creates a bite,whereas a saddle hitch can slip.Try it with rope sometime,tie a rope around a post and pull hard,you will find that the rope can slip then tie a clove hitch,the clove will bite on itself and not untie very easily.

RE: String loop fails
 

Heres another one I made recently out of 452,but you have to serve this type in, or put nocks above and below or it can slip.BTWI don't use a loop but experiement with them at times

RE: String loop fails
 

RE: String loop fails
 

Big bulls is 100% correct on this, we only tie them this way at Archery Idaho.:DI have only heard of one customer saying that their loop failed them, and it just broke in the middle. If tied right the knot will not loose what so ever.Beyond that if you are worried then ask to buy the knotless loop. They are a bit more money but at least you don't have to worry about a knot comming undone. I can't remember the name of the company but they are out of Wyoming. I took this pic from the Cabelas web site, they are selling them there.

RE: String loop fails
 

Idaho...that's pretty ,much the same loop that I am showing in my hand.To use this type ,you do have to use a bowpress to install it.

RE: String loop fails
 

yes, you need a bow press

RE: String loop fails
 

I've finally figured out how to tie a string loop exactly as my pro shop dealer does it and I really like it. Its very similiar to how bigbulls does with one difference..........the way the tag ends are tied in. Maybe hard to explain without a pic but instead of the tag ends coming straight down they are angled back under the first go around. In other words the tag ends are closer to the arrow nock. I really like his way because it seems that the ends are tighter. Now if I can only get my burnt ball ends to be as nice and as big as his. I will try to post pics later.

RE: String loop fails
 

I tie mine like big bulls too. I had one fail earlier this year but it was my fault. I did not make the burn balls big enough. That is one of the most important steps IMO. A big group of us were sighting in our broadheads before a trip to Texas to hog hunt. It hurt some but looking back it was worth it...everyone got a good laugh and I learned to be extra careful when tieing them to make sure they dont fail anymore.

RE: String loop fails
 

10 years later and never had a problem like this with my ultra knock.