RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

Thanks for explaining. Never tried the bare shaft method before. I'll give it shot,thanks.

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

Here is my opinion of all of these things. If I use the step back method to set the centershot of my bow, and I bareshaft tune to set my nocking point and arrow spine. My broadheads will ALWAYS impact with field points. ALWAYS. Bareshaft tuning will not tell you whether or not your bow is centershot. Bareshafting will tell you your arrow spine/ arrow rest combination. Once the arrow rest is set at centershot by the step back method, it should not be moved. If the bareshaft is off to one side, try turning the weight of the bow up. If the bareshaft goes towards the fletched shafts, then you arrows are too stiff. If it gets worst your arrows are too weak. Spine can be changed by point weight, arrow length, and bow poundage.

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

There are a couple reasons why this may not work. If you are shooting a weak spine, then no matter how you adjust your rest, it will not keep a weak shafted broadhead from planing to a different spot. Also, if nock travel is real poor on your particular bow, then you will likely have trouble getting them to shoot to the same spot. Trying will frustrate the heck out a person.

Lots of people insist on shooting less than ideal setups. In this case, walk-back tuning (with broadheads on) is the best way to get broadheads flying their best.

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

Well, it works for me, and my customers. If you understand how to choose arrows properly, you shouldnt have a problem with spine. Fingershooters are the only ones that need to be more selective. Release, which is 80% of shooters, doesnt require the perfect spine arrow, going slightly stiffer is always better.

Paper tuning is great, if you need to have your arrow coming out of your bow perfect at 3 feet, and you have enough time to do it.

Walk back tuning is good to make sure your bow is shooting arrows the same (left-right). A great method for those who shoot long-range. I use this method on 3d bows.

Group tuning is another favorite of mine, because it gets your bow set up to be most forgiving of you, and allows you to shoot the tightest groups possible. It may not be set up to shoot a perfect tear through paper even, but hey who cares?

All Im saying is, the others are a waste of time for the average bowhunter. If your equipment was picked out properly and matches well, and you have a good grasp on shooting. Just shoot the broadheads and field points from different distances, until they impact together. WHY adjust it once to shoot perfect bullet holes, and then go and adjust it again to get BHs and FPs to hit perfect? To me it seems like a waste of time. If you run into problems, you could always do a bare-shaft test, to see if your arrows are way under-spined or something, but thats usually not the case.

Have a good one, and feel free to do as much tuning as you want, just make sure to bring it down tomy shop first, soI can get paid for it.;):DIm just trying to save you all a little time and money.:)Thats all...different tuning methods for different types of shooting, or for curing different types of problems!

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

Just don't shoot a bare shaft with broadheads. It's very dangerous.