Paper Tuning your bow
 

Well I was reading my old Archery Handbook by Chuck Adams and was reading on paper tuning your bow. I just wondered if anyone else did this?
I did mine today at 20 yards and here is the picture:

According to the book it appears that my bow is tune pretty good. This photo shows that I have no problem with fishtailing or the other thing (whatever it is called) where you arrow goes up and down instead of fishtailing side to side.
So far I am very pleased with my New Martin Jaguar bow. Very quite and very fast.

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

Most people paper tune up close, not at 20 yards. By the time your arrow reaches 20 yards the fletchings should have corrected things. If you get a tear at 20 yards something is seriously wrong with your set up.

Try that same test with the paper at a few feet and see what happens. That will give you a better indication of how the arrow is coming out of the bow. I personally don't hold much stock in paper tuning, but it will show if things are way off, if you have a form problem or if you are having some sort of contact issue.

Download Eastons tuning guide and it will describe paper tuning and other methods pretty well.

I also think those arrows are a bit weak for your set up. I shoot the same length 2213's with 100 grn tips and according to TAP and On Target they spine correctly for my set up which is 51 pounds and a 26 inch draw. That is out of a bowtech mighy might with a 320 fps IBO rating though.

Paul

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

Ditto to what Paul said.

Also, its called porpoising when your arrow goes up and down.
If you dont know how to spell that, just call it dolphining!:D

Sorry, poor attempt at a joke.[:o]:D

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

I usually do paper tuning at 3 feet. I try to get a perfect bullet hole. On my 95 Phantom II, I could get a perfect bullet at three feet everytime. I still have yet to paper tune my Black Eagle, I need to because I can see my arrow kick to the left a little. After I paper tune and get it close atleast, Im gonna do the walk back tuning method. Do a search on here for that and give it a try.

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

I paper tune up close 3 to 4 feet, and then back 7 to 10 feet I'm looking for a tear like the one circled at those closer distances.
theory is the arrow hasn't had time to stabilize and the hole is an indication of how it came off of the bow. a bullet hole at 20 yards is common as the fletchings have stabilized the arrow during the flight.

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

Thanks guys. That is what I have been hearing, that I was shooting to far that I need to get within 3 to 6 feet then shoot. I will have to give that a try.

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

Your arrow will stabilize itself at 20 yards. Paper tune will only show you if your arrowis leaving your bow straight. 6 feetis about it, and make sure that you are shooting level.

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

A good test to see if your time paper tuning is worth the effort is to now shoot your broadhead and see if it impacts with your field tips. If it doesn't, bare shaft tune your setup for a true, fine tuned set up. Paper tuning will show you the flight of your arrow at a specific distance. Bare shaft tuning will give you the correct tuning from release to impact and your broadheads WILL impact with your field tips.

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

Explain bareshaft tuning please.

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

Bareshaft tuning is just that. You shoot bareshafts (no fletching) with fletched arrows.

Adjust your rest or nock accordingly till the two impact together.

To be honest, papertuning, bareshaft tuning and walk back tuning etc, are all a waste of time if you need to tune BH's.
They are best for 3D archery, etc...

Just start with eyeballed settings, and shoot BHs and FPs and adjust until they hit together. Thats all you need to do. Anything else is overkill. If BHs hit low, adjust your rest up a hair, if bhs hit right, move your rest left a hair. Keep doing this, and eventually you will have them hitting together or darn near close.

Have a good one---Matt

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

Thanks for explaining. Never tried the bare shaft method before. I'll give it shot,thanks.

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

Here is my opinion of all of these things. If I use the step back method to set the centershot of my bow, and I bareshaft tune to set my nocking point and arrow spine. My broadheads will ALWAYS impact with field points. ALWAYS. Bareshaft tuning will not tell you whether or not your bow is centershot. Bareshafting will tell you your arrow spine/ arrow rest combination. Once the arrow rest is set at centershot by the step back method, it should not be moved. If the bareshaft is off to one side, try turning the weight of the bow up. If the bareshaft goes towards the fletched shafts, then you arrows are too stiff. If it gets worst your arrows are too weak. Spine can be changed by point weight, arrow length, and bow poundage.

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

There are a couple reasons why this may not work. If you are shooting a weak spine, then no matter how you adjust your rest, it will not keep a weak shafted broadhead from planing to a different spot. Also, if nock travel is real poor on your particular bow, then you will likely have trouble getting them to shoot to the same spot. Trying will frustrate the heck out a person.

Lots of people insist on shooting less than ideal setups. In this case, walk-back tuning (with broadheads on) is the best way to get broadheads flying their best.

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

Well, it works for me, and my customers. If you understand how to choose arrows properly, you shouldnt have a problem with spine. Fingershooters are the only ones that need to be more selective. Release, which is 80% of shooters, doesnt require the perfect spine arrow, going slightly stiffer is always better.

Paper tuning is great, if you need to have your arrow coming out of your bow perfect at 3 feet, and you have enough time to do it.

Walk back tuning is good to make sure your bow is shooting arrows the same (left-right). A great method for those who shoot long-range. I use this method on 3d bows.

Group tuning is another favorite of mine, because it gets your bow set up to be most forgiving of you, and allows you to shoot the tightest groups possible. It may not be set up to shoot a perfect tear through paper even, but hey who cares?

All Im saying is, the others are a waste of time for the average bowhunter. If your equipment was picked out properly and matches well, and you have a good grasp on shooting. Just shoot the broadheads and field points from different distances, until they impact together. WHY adjust it once to shoot perfect bullet holes, and then go and adjust it again to get BHs and FPs to hit perfect? To me it seems like a waste of time. If you run into problems, you could always do a bare-shaft test, to see if your arrows are way under-spined or something, but thats usually not the case.

Have a good one, and feel free to do as much tuning as you want, just make sure to bring it down tomy shop first, soI can get paid for it.;):DIm just trying to save you all a little time and money.:)Thats all...different tuning methods for different types of shooting, or for curing different types of problems!

RE: Paper Tuning your bow
 

Just don't shoot a bare shaft with broadheads. It's very dangerous.