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Paper Tuning your bow

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Old 08-03-2005, 07:10 PM
  #1  
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Default Paper Tuning your bow

Well I was reading my old Archery Handbook by Chuck Adams and was reading on paper tuning your bow. I just wondered if anyone else did this?
I did mine today at 20 yards and here is the picture:

According to the book it appears that my bow is tune pretty good. This photo shows that I have no problem with fishtailing or the other thing (whatever it is called) where you arrow goes up and down instead of fishtailing side to side.
So far I am very pleased with my New Martin Jaguar bow. Very quite and very fast.
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:09 PM
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Default RE: Paper Tuning your bow

Most people paper tune up close, not at 20 yards. By the time your arrow reaches 20 yards the fletchings should have corrected things. If you get a tear at 20 yards something is seriously wrong with your set up.

Try that same test with the paper at a few feet and see what happens. That will give you a better indication of how the arrow is coming out of the bow. I personally don't hold much stock in paper tuning, but it will show if things are way off, if you have a form problem or if you are having some sort of contact issue.

Download Eastons tuning guide and it will describe paper tuning and other methods pretty well.

I also think those arrows are a bit weak for your set up. I shoot the same length 2213's with 100 grn tips and according to TAP and On Target they spine correctly for my set up which is 51 pounds and a 26 inch draw. That is out of a bowtech mighy might with a 320 fps IBO rating though.

Paul
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:16 PM
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Default RE: Paper Tuning your bow

Ditto to what Paul said.

Also, its called porpoising when your arrow goes up and down.
If you dont know how to spell that, just call it dolphining!

Sorry, poor attempt at a joke.[]
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Old 08-03-2005, 10:08 PM
  #4  
Nontypical Buck
 
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Default RE: Paper Tuning your bow

I usually do paper tuning at 3 feet. I try to get a perfect bullet hole. On my 95 Phantom II, I could get a perfect bullet at three feet everytime. I still have yet to paper tune my Black Eagle, I need to because I can see my arrow kick to the left a little. After I paper tune and get it close atleast, Im gonna do the walk back tuning method. Do a search on here for that and give it a try.
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Old 08-04-2005, 08:08 AM
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Default RE: Paper Tuning your bow

I paper tune up close 3 to 4 feet, and then back 7 to 10 feet I'm looking for a tear like the one circled at those closer distances.
theory is the arrow hasn't had time to stabilize and the hole is an indication of how it came off of the bow. a bullet hole at 20 yards is common as the fletchings have stabilized the arrow during the flight.
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Old 08-04-2005, 08:37 AM
  #6  
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Default RE: Paper Tuning your bow

Thanks guys. That is what I have been hearing, that I was shooting to far that I need to get within 3 to 6 feet then shoot. I will have to give that a try.
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Old 08-04-2005, 09:11 AM
  #7  
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Default RE: Paper Tuning your bow

Your arrow will stabilize itself at 20 yards. Paper tune will only show you if your arrowis leaving your bow straight. 6 feetis about it, and make sure that you are shooting level.
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Old 08-04-2005, 10:00 AM
  #8  
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Default RE: Paper Tuning your bow

A good test to see if your time paper tuning is worth the effort is to now shoot your broadhead and see if it impacts with your field tips. If it doesn't, bare shaft tune your setup for a true, fine tuned set up. Paper tuning will show you the flight of your arrow at a specific distance. Bare shaft tuning will give you the correct tuning from release to impact and your broadheads WILL impact with your field tips.
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Old 08-04-2005, 02:16 PM
  #9  
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Default RE: Paper Tuning your bow

Explain bareshaft tuning please.
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Old 08-04-2005, 03:46 PM
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Default RE: Paper Tuning your bow

Bareshaft tuning is just that. You shoot bareshafts (no fletching) with fletched arrows.

Adjust your rest or nock accordingly till the two impact together.

To be honest, papertuning, bareshaft tuning and walk back tuning etc, are all a waste of time if you need to tune BH's.
They are best for 3D archery, etc...

Just start with eyeballed settings, and shoot BHs and FPs and adjust until they hit together. Thats all you need to do. Anything else is overkill. If BHs hit low, adjust your rest up a hair, if bhs hit right, move your rest left a hair. Keep doing this, and eventually you will have them hitting together or darn near close.

Have a good one---Matt
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