Care of bear hide!
01-27-2007, 12:54 PM
#1
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Corruption capital USA, N. Illinois
Posts: 1,150
Care of bear hide!
My nephew shot a bear in michigan last year. We skinned it & were told to salt the hide & then freeze it until it could be brought in. This did not make sense to me as it seems the salt would keep the hide from freezing; thats why roads are salted in the winter. Does anyone know if this was the correct thing to do? I think it should have been frozen without the salt.
02-02-2007, 01:10 AM
#3
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location:
Posts: 7
RE: Care of bear hide!
It's best to flesh out the skin and to turn the ears, lips, nose, eyelids and toes to the last knuckle, as soon as possible after skinning. Salting will make sure the hide doesn't start slipping hair, even if it doesn't freeze solid. You always want to use pickling salt, or any non-iodized salt. Iodized salt can cause slippage of fur, also. When you make the initial cuts before starting to skin, make sure you cut with the future shape of the rug in mind. If you cut from top of paw pads to where the chest joins the neck, straight across,on front legs, and from top of hind foot pads to just below the scrotum and straight on across, then do the cut from there up to under the chin, you should have a full, long as possible, rug. Pull the skin up over the head and find the ear roots, cut close to the skull, easier to do while still attached to the body. Same with the feet, easier to skin out if attached to the body. Skin out to the last knuckle of the toes, leaving the claw joint on the hide. Enjoy a full fluffy furry rug if you have followed these directions, you won't have a scrawny looking,narrow chested looking rug.
"Gun control means using both hands."
"Gun control means using both hands."
02-03-2007, 02:02 PM
#6
Fork Horn
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 210
RE: Care of bear hide!
Do not salt before freezing. Skin hide of bear, then lay in freezer( if you have room )and allow to cool down, then take back out and roll up and place it in a bag.
Letting the hide cool down before rolling up will prevent bacteria from developing on the very middle of the roll as this will be the last place to freeze.
Letting the hide cool down before rolling up will prevent bacteria from developing on the very middle of the roll as this will be the last place to freeze.
02-04-2007, 08:44 AM
#7
Typical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Wall NJ
Posts: 705
RE: Care of bear hide!
Wildlife Taxidermy by Richard G. Santomauro
1732 Highway # 71
Wall NJ 07719
Phone- 732-449-5950
E-mail [email protected]
Web page http://www.rgswildlifetaxidermy.com
Black Bear Field Care
DO'S AND DON'TS
[align=center]
DO NOT place your skin in plastic bags or other airtight containers!
DO NOT use rock salt - use a fine grain salt!
DO NOT delay in taking care of you trophy - IT COULD SPOIL
DO NOT drip dry your hide in the sun, do so in the shade
DO take plenty of photos!
[/align]First things to do:
If any of you guys that are going bear hunting and are thinking of getting it mounted please take a small tape measure with you. Who ever will mount your bear would love to have the four (4) measurements so they can order the right size form, they are:
1. From the end of the nose, to the inside corner ofthe eye.
2. From the end of the nose to the base of the tail.
3. The circumference at the belly.
4. And the last measurement would be the circumference of the neck behind the ears.
Most outfitters and guides will skin out the bear and then it can be frozen. But do not salt and freeze it because it will create problems. Try to remove most of the blood and dirt from the hide, and get it to your taxidermist ASAP, as bacteria will still work on your bear even if frozen, just a little slower. If anybody has any questions feel free to call me before the hunt and I will answer any questions you might have. 732-449-5950
USE PROPER TOOLS
Congratulations! All your hard work has paid off and you have your bear. Now the crucial work begins; to prepare the animal for a mount of a lifetime. The proper tools are essential for all big game animals. I use several types of knives.
TOOLS NEEDED:
2 - 3" to 5" blade skinning knives
1 - 6" to 8" hunting knife
1 sharpening steel & 2' parachute cord
1- small measuring tape [/ul]
HOW TO SKIN A BEAR FOR A RUG/LIFE-SIZE MOUNT
When you are first on the scene of the bear kill take all your photos first.
The following procedures will allow your bear to be made into a rug as well as a life-size. It's very important to familiarize yourself with the bear's body, so look him over thoroughly before starting the skinning process. Areas to check: armpit area, groin area, inside the mount, stick your finger into the ear canal, and look at the bottom of the paws.
THE INCISION
Starting at the vent, under the tail, cut forward towards the head, staying in the middle of the belly and chest. If it's a male bear, cut around the genitals leaving them attached to one side. DO NOT REMOVE any evidence of sex. This is required by Fish & Game. Do not cut too deep, as it causes excessive bleeding. Do not cut too close, to avoid putting holes in the hide.
CUTTING THE FRONT LEGS
Starting at the paw, make a cut down the leg until you have reached the point of the elbow. Then aim your cut toward the center of the armpit, when you reach the center of the armpit, aim your cut toward the center of the chest, angling slightly upward. Make sure that each arm cut meets at the same place in the center of the chest.
CUTTING THE REAR LEGS
Beginning again at the paws, start at the point of the heel and make your cut down the backside of the legs. Look toward the vent under the tail. Aim your cut 3 finger widths above the anus. This will give you plenty of skin on the side of the bear and rear end of the bear to make a nice rug. The cuts you make directly affect the shape of the bear rug. Do not cut to the inside of the leg or too far toward the groin area.
BEGINNING TO SKIN THE BODY
Now that you have performed all of the necessary cuts, you may begin to carefully remove the skin from the carcass. It will be necessary to cut through either the ankle joints or toe joints of each paw to be able to get the skin off the body. Start with the rear paws, then the tail, and work the skin forward toward the head. You will remove the paws from the skin later.
HOW TO HANDLE THE PAWS
Depending on what you plan to do with your bear hide, you must make a decision regarding the bear pads (bottom of the paws)
Bear Rugs - the pads of the bear paw are not required.
Life Size - require pads to be left on.
If Tanning only - usually leave pads on in case they are needed later.
TO KEEP THE PADS OR NOT
Once you have decided NOT to keep the pads, you may begin cutting the pad at the hairline continuing around the entire pad. Peel the skin forward until you reach the toe bones. You will sever the tone bones away from the foot. You will remove the toe bones later with the string trick. The above procedure will leave the entire pad on the bony structure of the foot. There is no need to bring out the pads if you are making a rug out of your bear.
KEEPING YOUR PADS
To keep your pads, start cutting at the hairline and cut only about 2/3rds of the way around the pad, leaving one side attached to the skin, cut under the, pad and skin away from the bone structure. This procedure now gives you good access to the toe joints for easy removal from the foot. The tone bones will be removed later.
SKINNING THE HEAD
I always start with the mouth; this helps later in the skinning process. Cut the lips away from the upper and lower gum line and skinning back toward the eyes. Cut through the nose cartilage and pull the nose back toward the eyes. Loosen the skin around the muzzle as far back as you can.
SKINNING BACK TO THE EYES
When skinning up to the muzzle of the face, you can only go up to the eyes.
Always cut as close to the bone as possible.
STARTING THE BACKSIDE OF THE HEAD
Begin by pulling the skin toward the nose. The first obstacle you will reach is the ear canals. Stick your finger inside of the bear's ear with one hand and squeeze the earbutt with the other hand to feel your finger tip. Be sure to cut below the tip of your finger and this will make your ears long enough for your mount. Always cut close to the skull!
EYE SOCKETS
Getting to the eyes. Use your finger to feel around the inside of the eye orbit to familiarize yourself with the upper and lower eyelid. When you start cutting, always cut against the bone and into the eye socket. Do not trim off any excess skin around the eye openings. Cut very carefully around the eyes, this is where most mistakes are made.
TURNING THE EARS
Both ears must be turned inside out. It is helpful to have sharpening steel or some type of slender prop to use for this process. First, remove the ear butt muscle from the cartilage. Next insert the prop into the ear and force the skin downward over the prop while carefully cutting. Proceed slowly turning the skin inside out. Stop 1/8" from the edge of the ear. DO NOT REMOVE CARTILAGE.
COMPLETING THE EAR TURNING
Be sure to get within 1/8" of the tip of the ear and all around the edges.
A properly turned ear will still have the original shape of the ear.
SPLITTING THE LIPS
The lips must be opened to allow salt to penetrate into the flesh. Holding the lip skin in one hand, begin cutting with the other hand. Start at the gum line, cutting downward into the thickness of the lips. Use your thumb to hold the skin open as you cut. Do this all the way around the animal's mouth (upper and lower lips).
SPLITTING THE NOSE
After splitting the lips, the nose cartilage must be split open as well. This means you will need to split the center septum of the nose, right down the middle. Also cut into the surrounding flesh of the nose, so salt will penetrate.
REMOVE THE TOE BONES
At this point, the toe bones are what is left in the foot. You may remove these by using the string trick. Skin under each pad and split between each toe bone to separate from each other. Take a piece of string or parachute cord and tie a slipknot on one end. Use this to help hold the toe bone as you cut into the socket. Tie the other end to something sturdy. All joints must be removed.
REMOVING THE TAIL BONE
When you originally skinned the bear, we left the tailbone in the skin. This must be removed.
Cut on the underside of the tail to remove the bones.
FLESHING THE HIDE
Once all of the detail work has been done, you must remove all fat and meat from the skin. When in the field, this can be very difficult and time consuming. If you will remove most major areas, it is okay to leave the rest until you reach your taxidermist. Of course this depends on how long you are in the field or how warm the weather is.
SALTING THE SKIN
Salting the hide sets the hair. This is very important. The average black bear usually takes about 15-20 lbs. of salt. Pour salt on the flesh side of the skin; spread salt around the face, lips, nose & ears. Rub it in good. Check the edges of the skin to make sure it has not stuck to itself. The salt should be about 3/8" deep on the skin. Fold the skin, flesh to flesh and roll it up. Shake off the salt 24 hours later.
STORING THE SKIN
After rolling up our skin, put it in a breathable bag like a burlap or game bag. Hang it up to drip or set it up where it can drain. Be sure to resalt the skin after 24 hours. If you have no more salt-redistribute the wet salt left to areas that need it. Keep in a cool, dry place. Do not freeze.
BLACK BEAR FIELD CARE GUIDE
I have handled thousands of bearskins and have witnessed the tragic loss and mishandling of far too many trophies. With that concern, I have created this step-by-step field care guide. These basic techniques will teach you how to handle bears for a rug or life-size mount. Any other questions can be addressed to “Wildlife Taxidermy by Richard G. Santomauro”
Good Hunting!
Rich
1732 Highway # 71
Wall NJ 07719
Phone- 732-449-5950
E-mail [email protected]
Web page http://www.rgswildlifetaxidermy.com
Black Bear Field Care
DO'S AND DON'TS
[align=center]
DO NOT place your skin in plastic bags or other airtight containers!
DO NOT use rock salt - use a fine grain salt!
DO NOT delay in taking care of you trophy - IT COULD SPOIL
DO NOT drip dry your hide in the sun, do so in the shade
DO take plenty of photos!
[/align]First things to do:
If any of you guys that are going bear hunting and are thinking of getting it mounted please take a small tape measure with you. Who ever will mount your bear would love to have the four (4) measurements so they can order the right size form, they are:
1. From the end of the nose, to the inside corner ofthe eye.
2. From the end of the nose to the base of the tail.
3. The circumference at the belly.
4. And the last measurement would be the circumference of the neck behind the ears.
Most outfitters and guides will skin out the bear and then it can be frozen. But do not salt and freeze it because it will create problems. Try to remove most of the blood and dirt from the hide, and get it to your taxidermist ASAP, as bacteria will still work on your bear even if frozen, just a little slower. If anybody has any questions feel free to call me before the hunt and I will answer any questions you might have. 732-449-5950
USE PROPER TOOLS
Congratulations! All your hard work has paid off and you have your bear. Now the crucial work begins; to prepare the animal for a mount of a lifetime. The proper tools are essential for all big game animals. I use several types of knives.
TOOLS NEEDED:
2 - 3" to 5" blade skinning knives
1 - 6" to 8" hunting knife
1 sharpening steel & 2' parachute cord
1- small measuring tape [/ul]
HOW TO SKIN A BEAR FOR A RUG/LIFE-SIZE MOUNT
When you are first on the scene of the bear kill take all your photos first.
The following procedures will allow your bear to be made into a rug as well as a life-size. It's very important to familiarize yourself with the bear's body, so look him over thoroughly before starting the skinning process. Areas to check: armpit area, groin area, inside the mount, stick your finger into the ear canal, and look at the bottom of the paws.
THE INCISION
Starting at the vent, under the tail, cut forward towards the head, staying in the middle of the belly and chest. If it's a male bear, cut around the genitals leaving them attached to one side. DO NOT REMOVE any evidence of sex. This is required by Fish & Game. Do not cut too deep, as it causes excessive bleeding. Do not cut too close, to avoid putting holes in the hide.
CUTTING THE FRONT LEGS
Starting at the paw, make a cut down the leg until you have reached the point of the elbow. Then aim your cut toward the center of the armpit, when you reach the center of the armpit, aim your cut toward the center of the chest, angling slightly upward. Make sure that each arm cut meets at the same place in the center of the chest.
CUTTING THE REAR LEGS
Beginning again at the paws, start at the point of the heel and make your cut down the backside of the legs. Look toward the vent under the tail. Aim your cut 3 finger widths above the anus. This will give you plenty of skin on the side of the bear and rear end of the bear to make a nice rug. The cuts you make directly affect the shape of the bear rug. Do not cut to the inside of the leg or too far toward the groin area.
BEGINNING TO SKIN THE BODY
Now that you have performed all of the necessary cuts, you may begin to carefully remove the skin from the carcass. It will be necessary to cut through either the ankle joints or toe joints of each paw to be able to get the skin off the body. Start with the rear paws, then the tail, and work the skin forward toward the head. You will remove the paws from the skin later.
HOW TO HANDLE THE PAWS
Depending on what you plan to do with your bear hide, you must make a decision regarding the bear pads (bottom of the paws)
Bear Rugs - the pads of the bear paw are not required.
Life Size - require pads to be left on.
If Tanning only - usually leave pads on in case they are needed later.
TO KEEP THE PADS OR NOT
Once you have decided NOT to keep the pads, you may begin cutting the pad at the hairline continuing around the entire pad. Peel the skin forward until you reach the toe bones. You will sever the tone bones away from the foot. You will remove the toe bones later with the string trick. The above procedure will leave the entire pad on the bony structure of the foot. There is no need to bring out the pads if you are making a rug out of your bear.
KEEPING YOUR PADS
To keep your pads, start cutting at the hairline and cut only about 2/3rds of the way around the pad, leaving one side attached to the skin, cut under the, pad and skin away from the bone structure. This procedure now gives you good access to the toe joints for easy removal from the foot. The tone bones will be removed later.
SKINNING THE HEAD
I always start with the mouth; this helps later in the skinning process. Cut the lips away from the upper and lower gum line and skinning back toward the eyes. Cut through the nose cartilage and pull the nose back toward the eyes. Loosen the skin around the muzzle as far back as you can.
SKINNING BACK TO THE EYES
When skinning up to the muzzle of the face, you can only go up to the eyes.
Always cut as close to the bone as possible.
STARTING THE BACKSIDE OF THE HEAD
Begin by pulling the skin toward the nose. The first obstacle you will reach is the ear canals. Stick your finger inside of the bear's ear with one hand and squeeze the earbutt with the other hand to feel your finger tip. Be sure to cut below the tip of your finger and this will make your ears long enough for your mount. Always cut close to the skull!
EYE SOCKETS
Getting to the eyes. Use your finger to feel around the inside of the eye orbit to familiarize yourself with the upper and lower eyelid. When you start cutting, always cut against the bone and into the eye socket. Do not trim off any excess skin around the eye openings. Cut very carefully around the eyes, this is where most mistakes are made.
TURNING THE EARS
Both ears must be turned inside out. It is helpful to have sharpening steel or some type of slender prop to use for this process. First, remove the ear butt muscle from the cartilage. Next insert the prop into the ear and force the skin downward over the prop while carefully cutting. Proceed slowly turning the skin inside out. Stop 1/8" from the edge of the ear. DO NOT REMOVE CARTILAGE.
COMPLETING THE EAR TURNING
Be sure to get within 1/8" of the tip of the ear and all around the edges.
A properly turned ear will still have the original shape of the ear.
SPLITTING THE LIPS
The lips must be opened to allow salt to penetrate into the flesh. Holding the lip skin in one hand, begin cutting with the other hand. Start at the gum line, cutting downward into the thickness of the lips. Use your thumb to hold the skin open as you cut. Do this all the way around the animal's mouth (upper and lower lips).
SPLITTING THE NOSE
After splitting the lips, the nose cartilage must be split open as well. This means you will need to split the center septum of the nose, right down the middle. Also cut into the surrounding flesh of the nose, so salt will penetrate.
REMOVE THE TOE BONES
At this point, the toe bones are what is left in the foot. You may remove these by using the string trick. Skin under each pad and split between each toe bone to separate from each other. Take a piece of string or parachute cord and tie a slipknot on one end. Use this to help hold the toe bone as you cut into the socket. Tie the other end to something sturdy. All joints must be removed.
REMOVING THE TAIL BONE
When you originally skinned the bear, we left the tailbone in the skin. This must be removed.
Cut on the underside of the tail to remove the bones.
FLESHING THE HIDE
Once all of the detail work has been done, you must remove all fat and meat from the skin. When in the field, this can be very difficult and time consuming. If you will remove most major areas, it is okay to leave the rest until you reach your taxidermist. Of course this depends on how long you are in the field or how warm the weather is.
SALTING THE SKIN
Salting the hide sets the hair. This is very important. The average black bear usually takes about 15-20 lbs. of salt. Pour salt on the flesh side of the skin; spread salt around the face, lips, nose & ears. Rub it in good. Check the edges of the skin to make sure it has not stuck to itself. The salt should be about 3/8" deep on the skin. Fold the skin, flesh to flesh and roll it up. Shake off the salt 24 hours later.
STORING THE SKIN
After rolling up our skin, put it in a breathable bag like a burlap or game bag. Hang it up to drip or set it up where it can drain. Be sure to resalt the skin after 24 hours. If you have no more salt-redistribute the wet salt left to areas that need it. Keep in a cool, dry place. Do not freeze.
BLACK BEAR FIELD CARE GUIDE
I have handled thousands of bearskins and have witnessed the tragic loss and mishandling of far too many trophies. With that concern, I have created this step-by-step field care guide. These basic techniques will teach you how to handle bears for a rug or life-size mount. Any other questions can be addressed to “Wildlife Taxidermy by Richard G. Santomauro”
Good Hunting!
Rich
