For those who shoot bows with hard walls what is your secret?

It feels like to me like the bow wants to take off, is there a thought you focus on?

I have shot singlecam bows for almost 13 years now, I now have my first binary cam bow. A hard wall feels weird[&:]

I am with you Germ, I just made the switch myself.....I can't get used to holding back tension!!!!
I first got the bow and shot it through the chrono 3-4 times and got a variance of like 15-18fps....If I hold the wall hard (back tension) It will stay consistent, I have to actually think about doing this....
I didn't have to think about anything with may last few bows, they were like second nature to me, I guess....

I don't particularly like a super hard wall either. It really disrupts that fluid dynamic tension that I like to build into my shot from the beginning of the shot sequence to when the shot executes.

I haven't done it on my Constitution yet, but on my old Patriot and my old Allegiance, I cut a 1/2" section out of a Sims Insulator Strip and placed it where the peg connects with the limb. You will have to readjust the peg, but it should give you a nice cushy back wall that if you pull hard into progressivlybecomes quite firm.

That is a great idea

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Quit being a flippin sissy and shoot the bow

Ok ok[8D]

I'm a sissy and I admit it.[]

I have NEVER been a fan of an extremely hard wall.I like a firm wall that I know I have hit but can't stand it when that wall is so hard that the valley is non existant and if you relax,the bow goes forward.

His valley is adjustable.... He can lengthen it however he see's fit.... But once it hits the peg it is solid.

These aren't like the hoyt spiral cams.

Most hard walls today are combined with a non existant valley.It was a general statement.

If you are not comfortable in adjusting the valley then take it to someone who can.
Your draw is shorter than the bow is designed for and taking the valley out.
Actually a shorter draw makes holding back tension easier, but you have to have some valley there as a "mental" cushion.
This adjustment can be accomplished by shortening or loosening the buss cable or strings depending on what setup you have and what is needed.

Once you get used it, shooting off a wall is using more accurate. I know I for one liked knowing that in an awkward hunting position I knew I was at full draw. The tape is a good idea. It adds a bit of cushion but it also puts you ahead into the valley and gives you built in "creep".
If you are a target shooter you should have been using back tension to release anyway. If not you were punching the trigger. I don't mean to offend or put down your form but there isn't any other way to do it. I used back tension with an index finger trigger release for years. Here's How:

First adjust your draw length so that you can put your release hand thumb behind your neck. Extend it out and place it behind your neck and think of it as another anchor point.
Next: Place your finger on a fairly touchy trigger.
Now: Start the release sequence by pushing your thumb hard into your neck in a manner that pulls back on the release. Do this while doing a motion that can best be described as trying to pull your shoulder blades together.....BACK TENSION.
When done correctly the release will trigger and the shot will be a complete suprise.

I know this is REALLY tough to understand in writing but it works and if you take the time to master it, this is one of most accurate and comfortable shooting styles there is. And...it works great for hunting, because you can use a hunting style release and it triggers much easier than a Back Tension type release such as a Stanislawski.

Hope this helps somewhat.