I just got a lab puppy (6wks old) . I already have a few "need to know" basics on how to train such as 1. NO tug of war 2. Keep leashed and close. 3. Don't over do treats as rewards. 4. Start retrieve training by tossing about 2-5 feet. But if there is a few pointers some one may have out there I am willing to to give it a shot.

Jackie Mertens "Sound Beginnings" shows mostly what to do. Join a local club for the rest.

just wondering i got a lab myself shes 8 weeks old, but why do you say no tug of war?

The Miain reason I got for "No tug of war" is that it teaches the puppy that when he brings something back to you that he can play by tugging at it. If you want him to drop your duck into your hand or feet (not destry it by tugging) then don't teach him it's okay early on.... Right now, my 6 wk old is play retrieving about 5 or more feet out. I went duck hunting today and cut the wing at the first joing from the tip and have been throwing it to him to get him used to smell and texture. He will retieve about 3-4 times then he'll give up and move onto something else to his liking but I don't push it. I hope this is the right approach.

Also, I have been trying to break him of "look, my owners hands are chew toys" cant seem to work that or figure out how to do it

when he tries to bite your hand take that upper lip and fold it under his top pointy tooth.when he tries to bite you then he will just be biting himself and he will figue out that S%$t that hurts and im not going to do that anymore...well that worked for all of my labs that ive ever trained...also when you do that make sure you give a good stern NO or NO BITE!

Try the basics first sit stay come. Make sure every training session is very short and fun. Chew toys are not to be used for training. Tease him with a bumper shaking it around for a bit and toss in a straight line from his eyes. When he gets it make a big fuss over him. When he get's it down pat, add your retrieve word such as fetch it up. Just a few tosses will do, his attention span is short. The play time can get longer as he gets older. Once he learns it all string them together. Have him sit, put your hand on his chest so he can't dart after it. Say stay. Tell him to fetch it up, allow him to bolt out. When he get's it call him back. Have him sit. As you take the toy back say release. Then instantly raise a big fuss over him. Do not throw any negative into it if he is a slow learner. You want him to love to retrieve and ultimately down the road his main priority is to make you happy by doing what you want when you want. He learns that he is having fun and it makes you happy when he does what he is supposed to. By doing the things he doesn't want to, such as sit or stay he is rewarded with fetch it up, so it's worth it.
One very important thing is that he learns to trust you completely. Later on when you are working on blind retrieves he needs to know that there is something there because you are telling him it is. Just let him be a puppy and don't get frustrated with him. He needs a stern voice at times to correct him, but he also has got to understand what he is doing wrong. In other words when he is doing something wrong you have to catch him doing it. Don't get mad if your boots are chewwed up and he's not around them when you see them. In that case leave them there until he wakes up and attacks them again and give a stern NO. If he is really unruly you can pinch an ear but do not hit under any circumstances,puppy or adult. If my grown dog's get out of line I will grab their jowwels, not to create pain but to keep them where I want them. My nose touches theirs and I very intently give a sharp no while staring them in the eyes. At this point they want to be anywhere but in that situation. The second they break eye contact I release. Then they approach and lick to show submission. We continue on with whatever we were doing I do not reward with treats only praise.

Thanks for the info, Some of it I have been working on but there is a lot of good info I'll try to integrate into his training. So far I have him doing retrieves out to 20 feet. Not bad for an 8 week old if I do say so myself. I will admit, I was using a small toy I picked up and he did not want to retrieve it, just go out grab and chew on it. However, I started working with a clipped duck wing and it's like something instinctive clicked in his mind and he started working. I hope I can work some more with him this weekend since work had me tied up all last week. thanks again for the input.

Alright good deal. If he's doing that good you may be able to start some blind reteives. Throw on the other side of your vehicle and walk with him over there to find it. Go back to where you threw it from and call him back. After a short time he will be going over there looking for it on his own. The next day do 4 or 5 in a row the same way then mix in some regular retreives in plain sight. You want to build his thought process up so he can learn to search for it on his own. When he has that down, use a tougher obstacle like a fence he can't see through. Never let him not find it. Always point it out for him and let him get it then walk back to where you threw it from and have him bring it to you.
After he is finding it every time on his own, blind and in the open work on throwing it just barely into thick brush.
Blessings

no food off table
keep off couch
off the bed
use heavytowel for bed on floor as easy to wash.
no tug of war
say,NO,BACK,SIT
get around as many dogs you can
around as many kids as you can..

as for hunting, if he/she has it , they will hunt.
rabbits, get around rabbits, grouse, get around grouse, pheasants ,get around pheasants.


most important is THAT THEY LISTEW TOO YOU.

work on ONLY that and they will learn rest.