Bang on your scope to set adjustments!!
#1
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 269

Ya.. you read that correctly.. its no typo.
After spending $50 or more trying to figure out why I could not get my Nikon Slughunter scope to hold zero, and why a calculated adjustment didn't move the point of impact the correct distance, I gave up and called a master gunsmith for advice.
I have replaced rounds, had them tested, replaced the scope, remounted the scope, etc etc. Nothing worked.
Then, a master gunsmith told me to take a piece of wood block and tap the scope each time an adjustment is made. He explained that the mechanism inside is spring driven and sometimes it needs a shock to seat it into place. He went on to say that this usually is done with the recoil of the gun automatically but sometimes it requires a tap from a different direction.
Seems my problem is now solved. Each time an adjustment is made, I give the scope two wacks on the front, back, top adjuster and side adjuster. Seems to work like a charm.
Hope this helps save someone money on wasted ammo.
After spending $50 or more trying to figure out why I could not get my Nikon Slughunter scope to hold zero, and why a calculated adjustment didn't move the point of impact the correct distance, I gave up and called a master gunsmith for advice.
I have replaced rounds, had them tested, replaced the scope, remounted the scope, etc etc. Nothing worked.
Then, a master gunsmith told me to take a piece of wood block and tap the scope each time an adjustment is made. He explained that the mechanism inside is spring driven and sometimes it needs a shock to seat it into place. He went on to say that this usually is done with the recoil of the gun automatically but sometimes it requires a tap from a different direction.
Seems my problem is now solved. Each time an adjustment is made, I give the scope two wacks on the front, back, top adjuster and side adjuster. Seems to work like a charm.
Hope this helps save someone money on wasted ammo.
#5
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 9,227

I learned long ago from my father to give the scope a light tap with the handle of a screwdriver to "settle" the scope in place. I've been doing it so long I guess I just figured it was normal practice. It just goes to show that the older I get the smarter my father was.
#6

This is the trick. A lot quieter, and more positive acting than rapping on your scope with a wood block. Past-and-back is actually one way that many shooters might find out their scopes track a lot better than they think they do. Many budget friendly models have fairly loose gearing, so it takes a shot or two to settle in, if someone does a 5 shot box test (4 corners, plus one back 'home'), they don't get a square. Repeat the test by going past the adjustment and coming back to it, and you'll see even $200 scopes clean up on the adjustment box test.
The gentle-tap and the past-and-back techniques are as old as scopes themselves, pretty common knowledge.
There ARE certain scopes that are tight enough that you don't need to tap them, or go past the adjustment and back to it, but none in the price range you are talking about.
#7
Fork Horn
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 287

[QUOTE=Ridge Runner;4096011] if you moved them every week, they would move better, RR[/QUOTE
I don't get them moved every week, but as often as possible. 20 left, 20 up, 20 right, 20 down. If everything is working right, at 100 yds I have a nice 5" square with 2 in the black.
I don't get them moved every week, but as often as possible. 20 left, 20 up, 20 right, 20 down. If everything is working right, at 100 yds I have a nice 5" square with 2 in the black.