What to do about scope movement?
#1

Hey guys I have a savage 116 ss and a 4x12x40mm nichols classic scope. I boresighted it and did a little bit of sighting in ,just a minute ago I was "playing around" with it then I realized the scope wiggled a little bit up and down and side to side literally like 1/6th of a millimeter it actually takes a bit of pressure to move it. I tightened the rings down as tight as I could and not much difference. Does this matter a lot or should I just forget about it?
#2

Any movement of a scope is worth worrying about....the longer the shot, the more amplified that movement will be.
From what you are saying it sounds more like the bases are loose as opposed to the rings. I would take everything off and start from the bottom up...re-tighten the bases down and use either blue loc-tite or clear fingernail polish on the screws and ensure they are solid and don't move. Then remount the rings doing the same thing (using loc-tite or nail polish on those screw threads as well). Pay close attention to the screws on the bases (especially the forward bases) and make certain they do not bottom out and make contact with the bolt (not uncommon on the Savage 116)...if they do bottom out, locate slightly shorter screws.
Also, as is common with the Savage rifles...make certain you have the correct bases...the older non-accu-trigger versions use a rear "flat top" action that isn't the same as the newer accu-trigger action that has a rounded rear receiver area where the bases are attached.
From what you are saying it sounds more like the bases are loose as opposed to the rings. I would take everything off and start from the bottom up...re-tighten the bases down and use either blue loc-tite or clear fingernail polish on the screws and ensure they are solid and don't move. Then remount the rings doing the same thing (using loc-tite or nail polish on those screw threads as well). Pay close attention to the screws on the bases (especially the forward bases) and make certain they do not bottom out and make contact with the bolt (not uncommon on the Savage 116)...if they do bottom out, locate slightly shorter screws.
Also, as is common with the Savage rifles...make certain you have the correct bases...the older non-accu-trigger versions use a rear "flat top" action that isn't the same as the newer accu-trigger action that has a rounded rear receiver area where the bases are attached.
#3
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 538

Any movement of a scope is worth worrying about....the longer the shot, the more amplified that movement will be.
From what you are saying it sounds more like the bases are loose as opposed to the rings. I would take everything off and start from the bottom up...re-tighten the bases down and use either blue loc-tite or clear fingernail polish on the screws and ensure they are solid and don't move. Then remount the rings doing the same thing (using loc-tite or nail polish on those screw threads as well). Pay close attention to the screws on the bases (especially the forward bases) and make certain they do not bottom out and make contact with the bolt (not uncommon on the Savage 116)...if they do bottom out, locate slightly shorter screws.
Also, as is common with the Savage rifles...make certain you have the correct bases...the older non-accu-trigger versions use a rear "flat top" action that isn't the same as the newer accu-trigger action that has a rounded rear receiver area where the bases are attached.
From what you are saying it sounds more like the bases are loose as opposed to the rings. I would take everything off and start from the bottom up...re-tighten the bases down and use either blue loc-tite or clear fingernail polish on the screws and ensure they are solid and don't move. Then remount the rings doing the same thing (using loc-tite or nail polish on those screw threads as well). Pay close attention to the screws on the bases (especially the forward bases) and make certain they do not bottom out and make contact with the bolt (not uncommon on the Savage 116)...if they do bottom out, locate slightly shorter screws.
Also, as is common with the Savage rifles...make certain you have the correct bases...the older non-accu-trigger versions use a rear "flat top" action that isn't the same as the newer accu-trigger action that has a rounded rear receiver area where the bases are attached.
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Clermont Florida U.S.
Posts: 4,970

Yep, NO movement is tolerable. I'd remove the bases and remount to gun (using Blue Locktite) and torque to specs. Then, reset the scope into rings, level and align the reticle and set ER and torque to specs (no locktite needed here). BTW, if they are cheap / junk bases / rings, replace with a good quality set.
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,834

Yep, NO movement is tolerable. I'd remove the bases and remount to gun (using Blue Locktite) and torque to specs. Then, reset the scope into rings, level and align the reticle and set ER and torque to specs (no locktite needed here). BTW, if they are cheap / junk bases / rings, replace with a good quality set.
#6
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 538

Scope "slippage" isn't caused by metal to metal contact but a lack of it. Most rings have high spots which prevent good contact. Lapping the rings as part of the mounting process gives more metal to metal contact which eliminates slippage. A second benefit to lapping is it greatly reduces ring marks on scopes.
#7

Yep, NO movement is tolerable. I'd remove the bases and remount to gun (using Blue Locktite) and torque to specs. Then, reset the scope into rings, level and align the reticle and set ER and torque to specs (no locktite needed here). BTW, if they are cheap / junk bases / rings, replace with a good quality set.
#8

Everybody here is right. You don't want any scope movement.
I don't know about some of the other brands, but Warne recommends 25 inch lb of torque on bases and rings, most other rings are comparable. I've never used Loctite on Warne or Talley rings and I haven't had any problems.
I don't know about some of the other brands, but Warne recommends 25 inch lb of torque on bases and rings, most other rings are comparable. I've never used Loctite on Warne or Talley rings and I haven't had any problems.
Last edited by OpticsCamp; 08-15-2013 at 07:21 AM. Reason: inch lbs, not ft lbs
#10
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,834

Scope "slippage" isn't caused by metal to metal contact but a lack of it. Most rings have high spots which prevent good contact. Lapping the rings as part of the mounting process gives more metal to metal contact which eliminates slippage. A second benefit to lapping is it greatly reduces ring marks on scopes.
Last edited by SecondChance; 08-14-2013 at 10:06 AM.