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What to do about scope movement?

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What to do about scope movement?

Old 08-10-2013, 10:15 PM
  #1  
Spike
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Default What to do about scope movement?

Hey guys I have a savage 116 ss and a 4x12x40mm nichols classic scope. I boresighted it and did a little bit of sighting in ,just a minute ago I was "playing around" with it then I realized the scope wiggled a little bit up and down and side to side literally like 1/6th of a millimeter it actually takes a bit of pressure to move it. I tightened the rings down as tight as I could and not much difference. Does this matter a lot or should I just forget about it?
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:11 AM
  #2  
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Any movement of a scope is worth worrying about....the longer the shot, the more amplified that movement will be.

From what you are saying it sounds more like the bases are loose as opposed to the rings. I would take everything off and start from the bottom up...re-tighten the bases down and use either blue loc-tite or clear fingernail polish on the screws and ensure they are solid and don't move. Then remount the rings doing the same thing (using loc-tite or nail polish on those screw threads as well). Pay close attention to the screws on the bases (especially the forward bases) and make certain they do not bottom out and make contact with the bolt (not uncommon on the Savage 116)...if they do bottom out, locate slightly shorter screws.

Also, as is common with the Savage rifles...make certain you have the correct bases...the older non-accu-trigger versions use a rear "flat top" action that isn't the same as the newer accu-trigger action that has a rounded rear receiver area where the bases are attached.
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by emtrescue6 View Post
Any movement of a scope is worth worrying about....the longer the shot, the more amplified that movement will be.

From what you are saying it sounds more like the bases are loose as opposed to the rings. I would take everything off and start from the bottom up...re-tighten the bases down and use either blue loc-tite or clear fingernail polish on the screws and ensure they are solid and don't move. Then remount the rings doing the same thing (using loc-tite or nail polish on those screw threads as well). Pay close attention to the screws on the bases (especially the forward bases) and make certain they do not bottom out and make contact with the bolt (not uncommon on the Savage 116)...if they do bottom out, locate slightly shorter screws.

Also, as is common with the Savage rifles...make certain you have the correct bases...the older non-accu-trigger versions use a rear "flat top" action that isn't the same as the newer accu-trigger action that has a rounded rear receiver area where the bases are attached.
All good info here. Any movement at all is unacceptable. What type of mounts are you using?
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:22 AM
  #4  
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Yep, NO movement is tolerable. I'd remove the bases and remount to gun (using Blue Locktite) and torque to specs. Then, reset the scope into rings, level and align the reticle and set ER and torque to specs (no locktite needed here). BTW, if they are cheap / junk bases / rings, replace with a good quality set.
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by bugsNbows View Post
Yep, NO movement is tolerable. I'd remove the bases and remount to gun (using Blue Locktite) and torque to specs. Then, reset the scope into rings, level and align the reticle and set ER and torque to specs (no locktite needed here). BTW, if they are cheap / junk bases / rings, replace with a good quality set.
Great tips all told. Something many people don't look at is the metal to metal causes slippage. I have found that a small piece of electrical tape on both top and bottom ring. Just keep it short of touching at the joints.
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:45 AM
  #6  
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Scope "slippage" isn't caused by metal to metal contact but a lack of it. Most rings have high spots which prevent good contact. Lapping the rings as part of the mounting process gives more metal to metal contact which eliminates slippage. A second benefit to lapping is it greatly reduces ring marks on scopes.
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:56 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by bugsNbows View Post
Yep, NO movement is tolerable. I'd remove the bases and remount to gun (using Blue Locktite) and torque to specs. Then, reset the scope into rings, level and align the reticle and set ER and torque to specs (no locktite needed here). BTW, if they are cheap / junk bases / rings, replace with a good quality set.
+1...cheap rings and bases cause far more trouble than the $ they "save"....investing a few extra dollars in a good set is well worth it....Warne, Millet, Lupy, Redfield...are my fav's (in that order)...also, buy steel not aluminum in my opinion.
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:29 AM
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Everybody here is right. You don't want any scope movement.

I don't know about some of the other brands, but Warne recommends 25 inch lb of torque on bases and rings, most other rings are comparable. I've never used Loctite on Warne or Talley rings and I haven't had any problems.

Last edited by OpticsCamp; 08-15-2013 at 07:21 AM. Reason: inch lbs, not ft lbs
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:08 PM
  #9  
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I purchased the gun used and it is a picantanny mount but u were right the mount was loose thanks guys ^^
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Old 08-14-2013, 10:03 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Wayspr View Post
Scope "slippage" isn't caused by metal to metal contact but a lack of it. Most rings have high spots which prevent good contact. Lapping the rings as part of the mounting process gives more metal to metal contact which eliminates slippage. A second benefit to lapping is it greatly reduces ring marks on scopes.
100% Agreed. I as well lap my rings as well use an aligner. I as well use a LED Matco Torque wrench to set all my rings and bases in in/lbs to be exact with manuf specs. But that is more than most people are either going to do or know about. I try to keep it simple first then if needed go into a more indepth process if asked or needed.

Last edited by SecondChance; 08-14-2013 at 10:06 AM.
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