Help me pick a scope
07-28-2013, 09:24 PM
#1
Giant Nontypical
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,867
Help me pick a scope
Ok my plan is to buy a rem 700 either 3006 or 308 not sure yet. This will be for deer huntin mainly in ks also might do some in kentucky. Where im at in kansas seems to be mainly open fields and prairie so planning for a long shot
While it will mainly be for hunting i love target shooting and like pushing my self so i can see goin out to maybe 1000 yards
Im tryin to figure out what scope i wonna put on the gun. While i dont plan to hunt at much past idk 400 yards i wonna be able to target shoot pass 400. So what scope you guys recommend i want to keep it bout 500 or less id like to stay around 300 but ill go 500 if i need to
While it will mainly be for hunting i love target shooting and like pushing my self so i can see goin out to maybe 1000 yards
Im tryin to figure out what scope i wonna put on the gun. While i dont plan to hunt at much past idk 400 yards i wonna be able to target shoot pass 400. So what scope you guys recommend i want to keep it bout 500 or less id like to stay around 300 but ill go 500 if i need to
07-29-2013, 09:06 AM
#3
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Allegan, MI
Posts: 8,019
07-29-2013, 09:28 AM
#4
***Can he get a good scope that he needs like you mentioned for the money he wants to spend?
Really, anything up to 16x will be more than enough with some distance to spare, and a mildot or BDC reticle goes a long way toward shooting at those distances.
07-29-2013, 11:09 AM
#5
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location:
Posts: 5,130
Optics,
1000 - 600 = 400
400 yards is "still" a pretty good poke for MOST people (including me, if we are talking +/- sub MOA !).
I was just trying to offer my opinion on the amount of money ones should expect to pay for shooting targets at 1000 yards - oh, and hitting the target consistently.
1000 - 600 = 400
400 yards is "still" a pretty good poke for MOST people (including me, if we are talking +/- sub MOA !).
I was just trying to offer my opinion on the amount of money ones should expect to pay for shooting targets at 1000 yards - oh, and hitting the target consistently.
07-29-2013, 02:41 PM
#6
Optics,
1000 - 600 = 400
400 yards is "still" a pretty good poke for MOST people (including me, if we are talking +/- sub MOA !).
I was just trying to offer my opinion on the amount of money ones should expect to pay for shooting targets at 1000 yards - oh, and hitting the target consistently.
1000 - 600 = 400
400 yards is "still" a pretty good poke for MOST people (including me, if we are talking +/- sub MOA !).
I was just trying to offer my opinion on the amount of money ones should expect to pay for shooting targets at 1000 yards - oh, and hitting the target consistently.
07-29-2013, 02:48 PM
#7
07-29-2013, 07:20 PM
#8
Giant Nontypical
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,867
I really dont have a prob goin 500 i could do more if i wait to mid sept to buy the scope
But if i can do it on five id see the extra range time being more benafical. I was a big fan of the omega bdc scope on my triumph. So have no prob goin with a bdc scope on the rifle. I found every marker dead on with my triumph i waked two deers right around 250 yards put my marker on the heart and dead on hits with both
But if i can do it on five id see the extra range time being more benafical. I was a big fan of the omega bdc scope on my triumph. So have no prob goin with a bdc scope on the rifle. I found every marker dead on with my triumph i waked two deers right around 250 yards put my marker on the heart and dead on hits with both
07-30-2013, 07:43 PM
#9
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: WY
Posts: 2,056
Having used my share of them, I'm no longer a fan of the "BDC"-type scopes. Let's give this a twist...
How are you calculating range to target? I've yet to meet anyone who can call range reliably in all conditions within 50 yards by "eyeballing" it. Obviously, a laser rangefinder is probably the most common solution to the problem, but even those can be affected by lighting conditions. Unbeknownst to many shooters anymore, the mil-dot reticle is ideal for calculating range - the math made even easier if you have the slide-rule-like "Mil-Dot Master" tool.
Once you're confident in your range to target, you're much better off applying that range through a ballistics chart or using DOPE to your scope through target turrets. If you own a smartphone, it's easy. One of the best Android apps I've used is "Shooter" - you'll need actual muzzle velocity and some basic bullet information (Ballistic Coefficient, length, weight, etc.) but it'll spit out how many MOA or Mils you need to apply to your scope.
My "beyond-300-yards-target-gun" is a Remington 700 LTR in .308. It wears a Leupold Mk 4 6.5-20 ERT with M5 (Mil) turrets and usually prints on a 10" plate out to 900 yards or so where it goes subsonic (20" barrel) provided I get the range right and do my part behind it. The scope cost more than the rifle. The mounts alone cost more than most scopes that I hunt with.
A long-range hunting/target rifle is a specialized proposition. A hunting rifle that you'll use out to 400 yards or so doesn't need to be, nor does it need to be as expensive. For what you propose, I'd recommend a solid 3-9x or 4-12x/16x. Target turrets if they're available. If not, don't lose sleep over it. Practice can overcome an equipment shortfall. Buy GOOD mounts - not those Chinese cheapies. I have a number of Burris Fullfield IIs in 6.5-20x and 4.5-14x that do just fine out to 400 yards on .223s, a .22-250, and another .308. With good mounts, even the 6.5-20s were under $500. None of them have target turrets.
How are you calculating range to target? I've yet to meet anyone who can call range reliably in all conditions within 50 yards by "eyeballing" it. Obviously, a laser rangefinder is probably the most common solution to the problem, but even those can be affected by lighting conditions. Unbeknownst to many shooters anymore, the mil-dot reticle is ideal for calculating range - the math made even easier if you have the slide-rule-like "Mil-Dot Master" tool.
Once you're confident in your range to target, you're much better off applying that range through a ballistics chart or using DOPE to your scope through target turrets. If you own a smartphone, it's easy. One of the best Android apps I've used is "Shooter" - you'll need actual muzzle velocity and some basic bullet information (Ballistic Coefficient, length, weight, etc.) but it'll spit out how many MOA or Mils you need to apply to your scope.
My "beyond-300-yards-target-gun" is a Remington 700 LTR in .308. It wears a Leupold Mk 4 6.5-20 ERT with M5 (Mil) turrets and usually prints on a 10" plate out to 900 yards or so where it goes subsonic (20" barrel) provided I get the range right and do my part behind it. The scope cost more than the rifle. The mounts alone cost more than most scopes that I hunt with.
A long-range hunting/target rifle is a specialized proposition. A hunting rifle that you'll use out to 400 yards or so doesn't need to be, nor does it need to be as expensive. For what you propose, I'd recommend a solid 3-9x or 4-12x/16x. Target turrets if they're available. If not, don't lose sleep over it. Practice can overcome an equipment shortfall. Buy GOOD mounts - not those Chinese cheapies. I have a number of Burris Fullfield IIs in 6.5-20x and 4.5-14x that do just fine out to 400 yards on .223s, a .22-250, and another .308. With good mounts, even the 6.5-20s were under $500. None of them have target turrets.
07-31-2013, 06:47 AM
#10
Having used my share of them, I'm no longer a fan of the "BDC"-type scopes. Let's give this a twist...
How are you calculating range to target? I've yet to meet anyone who can call range reliably in all conditions within 50 yards by "eyeballing" it. Obviously, a laser rangefinder is probably the most common solution to the problem, but even those can be affected by lighting conditions. Unbeknownst to many shooters anymore, the mil-dot reticle is ideal for calculating range - the math made even easier if you have the slide-rule-like "Mil-Dot Master" tool.
Once you're confident in your range to target, you're much better off applying that range through a ballistics chart or using DOPE to your scope through target turrets. If you own a smartphone, it's easy. One of the best Android apps I've used is "Shooter" - you'll need actual muzzle velocity and some basic bullet information (Ballistic Coefficient, length, weight, etc.) but it'll spit out how many MOA or Mils you need to apply to your scope.
My "beyond-300-yards-target-gun" is a Remington 700 LTR in .308. It wears a Leupold Mk 4 6.5-20 ERT with M5 (Mil) turrets and usually prints on a 10" plate out to 900 yards or so where it goes subsonic (20" barrel) provided I get the range right and do my part behind it. The scope cost more than the rifle. The mounts alone cost more than most scopes that I hunt with.
A long-range hunting/target rifle is a specialized proposition. A hunting rifle that you'll use out to 400 yards or so doesn't need to be, nor does it need to be as expensive. For what you propose, I'd recommend a solid 3-9x or 4-12x/16x. Target turrets if they're available. If not, don't lose sleep over it. Practice can overcome an equipment shortfall. Buy GOOD mounts - not those Chinese cheapies. I have a number of Burris Fullfield IIs in 6.5-20x and 4.5-14x that do just fine out to 400 yards on .223s, a .22-250, and another .308. With good mounts, even the 6.5-20s were under $500. None of them have target turrets.
How are you calculating range to target? I've yet to meet anyone who can call range reliably in all conditions within 50 yards by "eyeballing" it. Obviously, a laser rangefinder is probably the most common solution to the problem, but even those can be affected by lighting conditions. Unbeknownst to many shooters anymore, the mil-dot reticle is ideal for calculating range - the math made even easier if you have the slide-rule-like "Mil-Dot Master" tool.
Once you're confident in your range to target, you're much better off applying that range through a ballistics chart or using DOPE to your scope through target turrets. If you own a smartphone, it's easy. One of the best Android apps I've used is "Shooter" - you'll need actual muzzle velocity and some basic bullet information (Ballistic Coefficient, length, weight, etc.) but it'll spit out how many MOA or Mils you need to apply to your scope.
My "beyond-300-yards-target-gun" is a Remington 700 LTR in .308. It wears a Leupold Mk 4 6.5-20 ERT with M5 (Mil) turrets and usually prints on a 10" plate out to 900 yards or so where it goes subsonic (20" barrel) provided I get the range right and do my part behind it. The scope cost more than the rifle. The mounts alone cost more than most scopes that I hunt with.
A long-range hunting/target rifle is a specialized proposition. A hunting rifle that you'll use out to 400 yards or so doesn't need to be, nor does it need to be as expensive. For what you propose, I'd recommend a solid 3-9x or 4-12x/16x. Target turrets if they're available. If not, don't lose sleep over it. Practice can overcome an equipment shortfall. Buy GOOD mounts - not those Chinese cheapies. I have a number of Burris Fullfield IIs in 6.5-20x and 4.5-14x that do just fine out to 400 yards on .223s, a .22-250, and another .308. With good mounts, even the 6.5-20s were under $500. None of them have target turrets.
I'm still a fan of BDC reticles. Given enough range time and confidence in your ballistics, they can be pretty effective when paired with a good rangefinder.
If you're going to be punching paper and scoring it, you would do best to learn how to properly utilize a mil reticle. If you can be sure of your ballistics and you're going 400-600 yards once in a while, I think most casual hunters and shooters can do well with a BDC, and even use it as a stepping stone into calculating with a mildot scope (or god forbid a horus reticle!)