question on shiming a scope
11-18-2009, 10:37 PM
#11
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 6,921
Shim option - cut out of alum pop can, slightly undersized to the base (don't want it hanging out the sides but must make even contact) and holes drilled for taps. Place under the rear base and tighten down as per norm. .010" thickness will give you approx 7" more elevation.
Of course the other option is different mounts.
Is it possible the rings were inverted (some are front and rear specific)???
Of course the other option is different mounts.
Is it possible the rings were inverted (some are front and rear specific)???
11-19-2009, 09:36 PM
#12
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 6,921
I'm amazed at the rampant stupidity espoused here...which is "supposedly" checked out.
As a rule,every .001" off rearward base inclination,grants 1" of upward zero travel at 100yds. Thus a 20MOA base,roughly equates to a +20 inch headstart upon upward erector travel.
I'd reckon Burris glass,to cause most of these woes..................(hint)
As a rule,every .001" off rearward base inclination,grants 1" of upward zero travel at 100yds. Thus a 20MOA base,roughly equates to a +20 inch headstart upon upward erector travel.
I'd reckon Burris glass,to cause most of these woes..................(hint)
11-21-2009, 02:27 PM
#15
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 6,921
WOW your really something special. Don't cast stones, your grammer and spelling isn't exactly a model. Boolits or as most would spell bullets, just one example. 2 days back on this board 170 post and stiring the pot/causing sh!t seems to be your main objective. Whatever floats your canoe but I ain't going to feed your trip any longer. Bon voyage.
