Reloading Kit Help
#1
Thread Starter
Spike
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 30
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Hey guys, I have never reloaded before and want to get into it. The only thing holding me back is that I don't shoot a ton. If I were to buy a kit what would you guys suggest? Hopefully not looking to spend more than $250
#2
Buy a quality single stage press - new or used. Something like a RCBS Rockchucker will serve well through a lifetime of reloading (and often beyond). A good reloading manual, scales and calipers of almost any brand, and a few odds and ends will give you a start. Buy dies and shell holders for the cartridges you load, but you are probably better off avoiding the cheapest ones on the market.
I sometimes see good used presses for sale. Good ones are nearly indestructible.
I sometimes see good used presses for sale. Good ones are nearly indestructible.
#3
This is what I started with, but you'll need more than this, like a mentor to get you started.
Reloading your own ammo is a great thing... But you can get in serious trouble in a big hurry... I strongly suggest that you find someone that can at least get you started with the basics. My first reloads were for an ultra mag... I got into case stretch/head space issues right away. The guy that got me started didn't even realize what was happening, and gave up when the pressure spikes started happening... I had to seek a lot of advice before I learned about what was going on... Not a big issue if you understand whats happening... A potentially huge issue if you don't... It's an issue you may run into more with your .300 mag than your .308... I also strongly suggest you buy a chronograph, it's an invaluable tool to help you see such issues developing.
There's also plenty of equipment available on ebay, but if you don't know what your looking for, and why your looking for it I wouldn't bother.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/423...ProductFinding
I should also add that you'll need a manual. The Lee manual will get you started.
Reloading your own ammo is a great thing... But you can get in serious trouble in a big hurry... I strongly suggest that you find someone that can at least get you started with the basics. My first reloads were for an ultra mag... I got into case stretch/head space issues right away. The guy that got me started didn't even realize what was happening, and gave up when the pressure spikes started happening... I had to seek a lot of advice before I learned about what was going on... Not a big issue if you understand whats happening... A potentially huge issue if you don't... It's an issue you may run into more with your .300 mag than your .308... I also strongly suggest you buy a chronograph, it's an invaluable tool to help you see such issues developing.
There's also plenty of equipment available on ebay, but if you don't know what your looking for, and why your looking for it I wouldn't bother.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/423...ProductFinding
I should also add that you'll need a manual. The Lee manual will get you started.
Last edited by Lunkerdog; 02-27-2014 at 07:05 AM.
#4
LD pretty much said it. A reloading manual is a must, one, two, three, like guns you can never have to many. A manual that explains the basics and gives an understanding of what is happening in the mechanics of a fired round and reloading. What to look for in cases, primers, that could spell trouble. Read it and as much info as you can. Fallow the powder loads and recommendations. Then you will have an idea of what you need for the basics. A chronograph is a very good thing to see how your reloads are performing and alert you to any unsafe issues and develop more consistent loads.
#5
I also started with a Lee Anniversary Single Stage Kit. They've updated it to be a bushing press now, it wasn't a bushing when I bought mine ~15-16yrs ago.
Eventually I bought a progressive press, then sold it, bought a different progressive press, sold that. Now I'm back to using basically that same Anniversary kit, but have added a Lee Turret Press. I use the original Single Stage Challenge press as a universal decapper.
I'd highly recommend that kit, then potentially add another $100 for a turret press to speed things up a bit for you.
What comes in the kit:
I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things that I use, and every reloader will have their own personal preferences for gear, but here's what I'd recommend, above and beyond the kit...
What DOESN'T come in the kit that you'll NEED (minimum):
The Lee Turret Deluxe kit is another good option, but you may be overwhelmed with the autoprime and auto powder dispenser at first. You also may not trust the auto powder dispenser for precision loading. Personally, I don't. I used to use a Lee Perfect Powder Measure (in the Anniversary kit) to feed onto a digital scale, trim with a powder trickler, then checked every load on the Lee Safety scale (actually a BALANCE) for precision. Now I have a Hornady electronic powder dispenser/scale, so I use that to dispense and weigh, then I check it on the balance before charging the case.
Like I said before, different strokes for different folks, but this is what I'd recommend for a beginner on a budget.
Eventually I bought a progressive press, then sold it, bought a different progressive press, sold that. Now I'm back to using basically that same Anniversary kit, but have added a Lee Turret Press. I use the original Single Stage Challenge press as a universal decapper.
I'd highly recommend that kit, then potentially add another $100 for a turret press to speed things up a bit for you.
What comes in the kit:
- Single Stage Press
- One Breech Lock Bushing
- Hand Primer for large and small primers
- Case holder set for hand primer
- Powder Measure
- Safety Powder Scale (it's actually a balance, not a scale)
- Powder Funnel
- Case trimmer and lock stud
- Chamfer tool
- Primer pocket cleaner
- Case lube
I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things that I use, and every reloader will have their own personal preferences for gear, but here's what I'd recommend, above and beyond the kit...
What DOESN'T come in the kit that you'll NEED (minimum):
- Quiet, clutter free, well-lit space to work (no TV in this room)
- Bench to mount it on/work on (Black & Decker Workmate with a 2'x2'x3/4" plywood bolted top is a fine "space saving" and "budget friendly" option)
- Reloading Manual(s) (best to get a few, get info from your powder manufacturer AND bullet manufacturer both)
- Components: Brass, primers, powder, bullets
- Dies for your cartridge(s)
- More bushings if you want to save time swapping dies
- Lee cartridge length gauges (I'd recommend getting an RCBS Pro-trimmer instead)
- Reloading blocks (holds cases while you're working)
- Case cleaner (ultrasonic or tumbler)
- Calipers (digital is worth the price)
- Ammo boxes (to store loaded rounds - can use factory ammo boxes, but be careful)
- Case cleaning and lubricating brushes
- Tubs to store dirty, clean, and trimmed brass (I use rubbermaid tubs)
- Lots of sticky labels (label your reloading blocks "sized", "primed", Charged", "seated", "crimped", label your ammo boxes, label your case tubs, etc)
- Turret press to replace the single stage
- Universal decapping die (use the single stage as a dedicated decapper)
- Powder Trickler (mega handy, sucks trying to spoon 0.1grn)
- Electronic case prep station
- Electronic powder scale or dispenser (double check on Safety Scale)
- Chronograph
The Lee Turret Deluxe kit is another good option, but you may be overwhelmed with the autoprime and auto powder dispenser at first. You also may not trust the auto powder dispenser for precision loading. Personally, I don't. I used to use a Lee Perfect Powder Measure (in the Anniversary kit) to feed onto a digital scale, trim with a powder trickler, then checked every load on the Lee Safety scale (actually a BALANCE) for precision. Now I have a Hornady electronic powder dispenser/scale, so I use that to dispense and weigh, then I check it on the balance before charging the case.
Like I said before, different strokes for different folks, but this is what I'd recommend for a beginner on a budget.
#8
You didn't say what cartridges you want to reload. Once you start reloading, you probably will be shooting more. I started reloading many years ago when Herter's was one of the largest suppliers. I started reloading for a .30-06, then added .38 spl/.357 mag, then added .45 acp, then...46 years later, I'm still adding.
Like has been mentioned, a current reloading manual is one of the most important things to have. Powders, bullets, etc change so current manuals are a must. I have current manuals from each of the manufacturers of the bullets that I shoot.
Single stage presses work fine, they just aren't as fast as progressive presses. I started off with a Herter's "C" press, later upgraded it to a RCBS Rockchucker, and later added a Dillon progressive. I still load most of my rifle cartridges on the Rockchucker.
Most presses include a primer seating arm. Some people like the feel of a separate hand primer seater that are made my RCBS, Lee, and others.
Most of the dies that I use are RCBS, but I also use Hornady, Pacific, Lee, and Herters. For straight wall pistol cases, carbide size dies are great -- no lube required for sizing or to wipe off after. Case specific shell holders are required to hold the case in the press. They come in a variety of sizes for each family of case sizes, and must fit the ram of the press.
I lubed cases for many years with lube on an ink pad, now use my fingers and Imperial sizing wax for bottleneck cases and carbide size dies for straight wall cases..
I started with a Herter's balance scale, later upgraded to a RCBS 505 scale that I still use. I started off dropping powder onto the scale tray with a spoon, then graduated to a RCBS Uniflow powder measure and a powder trickler, and now also have a Dillon powder measure on my Dillon press.
A powder funnel is also almost a must. I have two funnels, one with a drop tube for large quantity powder loads.
Bottleneck cases have a tendency of getting longer with repeated firings and must have the mouth trimmed to their specified length. Lee makes an individual case length gage and cutter for specific cartridges that are inexpensive, and RCBS and others make hand lathe type universal case trimmers. I have and use both.
After you trim a case, you must remove the burrs from the inside and outside of the mouth of the case. The simplest deburring tool looks like a small rocket ship and is available from most reloading manufacturers.
A good (dial) caliper is almost a necessity of accurately measuring case and overall cartridge lengths.
Loading blocks are available commercially or can be made by carefully drilling rows of holes in a block of wood. They securely hold the cases in a vertical position throughout the reloading process, especially for single stage loaders.
The above highlighted items are what I consider the minimum necessary items to begin reloading. Once into reloading, you will probably forever continue add to this list.
Shotshell reloading is an entirely different game with it's own set of tools. About the only tool that is used for reloading both shotshells and metallic cases is a powder scale.
#9
Chronographs are good tools but you absolutely do not need one as a beginner.
To be honest, I've never loaded the .300 mag. That said, I started loading a 7mm RUM. The first issue that came up was case stretch in front of the head. The guy that was teaching me was trying to do a "partial" resize, and the shoulder wasn't getting set back. This quickly developed into a pressure issue that we would more than likely not have been detected right of way had we not been using his Chrony.
I can see the same type of issue happening with the .300 if the cases aren't being fully resized properly.
So as I said, I agree that a Chrony isn't an absolute necessity But based on my very first experience with reloading, and now realizing what could have happened, I'll never develop a load without one.
Last edited by Lunkerdog; 02-27-2014 at 07:39 PM.
#10
My 2 cents...
I have several presses...most are 50 year old CH Magnum single stage presses (3 in all...the one I started with was my grandfathers)...I do have a 3 station/stage CH Magnum press as well used mostly for a few straight wall rifle cartridges...and I did get bit by the Dillon (a 550b) bug...I use it, but not often (mostly for 9mm/40 and 45). I love the Dillon, but I still prefer to do 90% of my loading on the CH's...one of which is also set up as only a de-priming station.
I guess my point is two fold...a good quality older press (if you can find one used) is a great investment and will outlive you...the CH that came from my grandfather has got to have a million loaded rounds under it. Secondly, a single stage press will do 99% of the work most loaders need/want.
Buy a couple reloading manuals and read them before you buy any gear...Nosler, Lee, Hornady, Speer...all good manuals.
Electronic gear is nice...I buy it, use it, box it up and put it on the shelf most times and revert back to old school tools. A good beam scale, powder trickler, case prep tools (debur, chamfer, etc), a quality set of calipers, and a press and dies will get you started.
Take your time and develop a routine...I complete the same steps everytime...write your process and hang it on the wall and follow it...it helps avoid errors that can be costly and dangerous (double charged cases, no charges cases, reverse set primers....)...it's not being over-dramatic to remind people can be killed or maimed if you good up.
Create a space for nothing but reloading....a designated area where distractions are minimal and the workspace can be kept clean.
Expect to spend way more than you plan...it happens! Don't get hung up on brands...buy what you like and what works for you. Have fun!
I have several presses...most are 50 year old CH Magnum single stage presses (3 in all...the one I started with was my grandfathers)...I do have a 3 station/stage CH Magnum press as well used mostly for a few straight wall rifle cartridges...and I did get bit by the Dillon (a 550b) bug...I use it, but not often (mostly for 9mm/40 and 45). I love the Dillon, but I still prefer to do 90% of my loading on the CH's...one of which is also set up as only a de-priming station.
I guess my point is two fold...a good quality older press (if you can find one used) is a great investment and will outlive you...the CH that came from my grandfather has got to have a million loaded rounds under it. Secondly, a single stage press will do 99% of the work most loaders need/want.
Buy a couple reloading manuals and read them before you buy any gear...Nosler, Lee, Hornady, Speer...all good manuals.
Electronic gear is nice...I buy it, use it, box it up and put it on the shelf most times and revert back to old school tools. A good beam scale, powder trickler, case prep tools (debur, chamfer, etc), a quality set of calipers, and a press and dies will get you started.
Take your time and develop a routine...I complete the same steps everytime...write your process and hang it on the wall and follow it...it helps avoid errors that can be costly and dangerous (double charged cases, no charges cases, reverse set primers....)...it's not being over-dramatic to remind people can be killed or maimed if you good up.
Create a space for nothing but reloading....a designated area where distractions are minimal and the workspace can be kept clean.
Expect to spend way more than you plan...it happens! Don't get hung up on brands...buy what you like and what works for you. Have fun!


