+1, and also the electronic stuff. They're good, but not a necessity.

You didn't say what cartridges you want to reload. Once you start reloading, you probably will be shooting more. I started reloading many years ago when Herter's was one of the largest suppliers. I started reloading for a .30-06, then added .38 spl/.357 mag, then added .45 acp, then...46 years later, I'm still adding.

Like has been mentioned, a current reloading manual is one of the most important things to have. Powders, bullets, etc change so current manuals are a must. I have current manuals from each of the manufacturers of the bullets that I shoot.

Single stage presses work fine, they just aren't as fast as progressive presses. I started off with a Herter's "C" press, later upgraded it to a RCBS Rockchucker, and later added a Dillon progressive. I still load most of my rifle cartridges on the Rockchucker.

Most presses include a primer seating arm. Some people like the feel of a separate hand primer seater that are made my RCBS, Lee, and others.

Most of the dies that I use are RCBS, but I also use Hornady, Pacific, Lee, and Herters. For straight wall pistol cases, carbide size dies are great -- no lube required for sizing or to wipe off after. Case specific shell holders are required to hold the case in the press. They come in a variety of sizes for each family of case sizes, and must fit the ram of the press.

I lubed cases for many years with lube on an ink pad, now use my fingers and Imperial sizing wax for bottleneck cases and carbide size dies for straight wall cases..

I started with a Herter's balance scale, later upgraded to a RCBS 505 scale that I still use. I started off dropping powder onto the scale tray with a spoon, then graduated to a RCBS Uniflow powder measure and a powder trickler, and now also have a Dillon powder measure on my Dillon press.

A powder funnel is also almost a must. I have two funnels, one with a drop tube for large quantity powder loads.

Bottleneck cases have a tendency of getting longer with repeated firings and must have the mouth trimmed to their specified length. Lee makes an individual case length gage and cutter for specific cartridges that are inexpensive, and RCBS and others make hand lathe type universal case trimmers. I have and use both.

After you trim a case, you must remove the burrs from the inside and outside of the mouth of the case. The simplest deburring tool looks like a small rocket ship and is available from most reloading manufacturers.

A good (dial) caliper is almost a necessity of accurately measuring case and overall cartridge lengths.

Loading blocks are available commercially or can be made by carefully drilling rows of holes in a block of wood. They securely hold the cases in a vertical position throughout the reloading process, especially for single stage loaders.

The above highlighted items are what I consider the minimum necessary items to begin reloading. Once into reloading, you will probably forever continue add to this list.

Shotshell reloading is an entirely different game with it's own set of tools. About the only tool that is used for reloading both shotshells and metallic cases is a powder scale.