Wow, didn't mean to derail this thread by bringing the Chronograph into the mix!!

To those readers: Please go back and read the heading under which I listed the Chronograph = Stuff you MIGHT WANT....

Personally, I used the chronograph as a variation of the ladder test for many years before I even knew what a ladder test was. Across the bench, as I tuned up a load, if my velocities plateaued, then I stopped adding powder. No sense in throwing more powder at it and not getting anything back.

I also wanted to know, even from the beginning, how fast I was flying. Not so I could brag, or try to push the limits, but so I could get an accurate muzzle velocity to cross reference to the ballistic chart (now it's all calculators) to build a preliminary range card.

For a $100, a pro-chrony was probably one of the better investments I've made. Rather than shooting more money (aka rounds) downrange to determine my range card, the chrony gives a good ballpark to get me on the page as I move further out. Saves a lot of money over the years in components (bullets, powder, primers) and brass life.

So no, it's not a necessity, but I still think it's worth having on the list of something a new reloader MIGHT WANT. He11, I'd rather have a chronograph than an electronic powder scale or powder despenser anyday.

I agree with Nomercy here. A reloading Manual is a must, A Chrony is a very good thing to see. As in my first post on this thread. I pushed A reloading manual, it will tell you the things you need on a basic level. And will tell you the most important thing safety, in the use of those things. You may or may not want to spend a lot at first, but once biten by the bug, who knows. There are many good kits out there, but the most important thing is a manual. It will help you dicide based on the reloading you will be doing the basic things you need to get started in a safe way.

big uncle, I agree with you. talking over the guys head wont do him any good if he doesn't know what everyone is talking about. a single stage press is a good start to get into loading. don't know if a kit can be found for $250, but like one of the guys said, keep a look out for someone getting out of the reloading business. might pick up a good deal. also getting a good reloading manual is most important. Hornady is the one I recommend.

Be careful.

The Hornady manual will only be applicable to Hornady bullets. If he's not shooting a Hornady bullet, using their manual can be dangerous.

Since Lyman doesn't make a bullet it is dangerous to load using that manual? They only list bullets by weight (grains) and normaclture round nose ,flat nose, spire point and such.

Or is that the manual to use cause any bullet that fits the description will work?

GEEEZ!!!!


:D Al

It ultimately depends on what you are loading, but no, I never recommend a beginner reload with a manual that doesn't fit their bullet exactly. Examples of hazard: a longer profile bullet than the manual suggests might become a compressed load over a max charge when seated to the suggested coal. Might blow your rifle in half. Or a more blunted ogive bullet seated long might contact the lands, again, possibly causing a failure. If you're loading light for caliber bullets, it becomes less likely that an error like that can happen, but it's not failsafe. You can see these differences by crosser fermenting different manuals for the same bullet design. Many are quite similar for powder charge and bullet weight, but some might have 100-200fps difference for what looks like should be interchangeable bullets and different max charges. Or might have different coal. Put the larger listed max charge under the other bullet (maybe a different alloy, or a different bearing surface design) that is listed having a lower charge and you might blow something up.

So no, I don't use the Lyman manuals without exacting specs, and wouldn't recommend them for a novice reloader for that reason. I own them, and reference them, but I wouldn't go solely based on that info without treading very lightly. A new reloader may not know how to spot pressure signs, or may skip charge work up, or may not realize that a sticky bolt means something.

I'll have to look at the 7 other manuals I own to see what they have in them about pressure signs but the Lyman # 45 has a good section on what to look for. Beside hard extraction of the case too.

:D Al

I see what you are saying, for example, for a 180 gr bullet and IMR 7828 powder for a .300 Weatherby, Nosler lists a maximum load of 84.5 grains, and Hornady lists a maximum load of 81.9 grains.

That's why for all new loads we start several grains of powder below the listed maximum, regardless of the bullet or manual, and work up our loads, constantly looking for excess pressure signs.

Even though a bullet manufacturer lists a maximum load for a bullet that they make doesn't mean it would be safe in your gun.

I have manuals from each of the bullet manufacturers of the bullets that I shoot, and when I first start working an new load I will go to that bullet's manufacturer's manual first. But sometimes a manual won't list a powder that I want to use, and another manual would for that weight bullet.

Also, many manuals list loads for bullet weights, not specific bullet styles. For example, for .300 Wby, my Hornady manual lists the same load for 7 bullet styles for 178-180 grain bullets. These include spitzer, spire point, flat base, tipped boattails, HP boattails, and round nose bullets.

I happen to have my Hornaday forth edition Vol. 1 manual near me right now.
For 224 they show 15 different bullets for reloading 22 center fires from 40gr. to 70gr. I turn the page to the section for 220 swift and they list 2 53gr bullets and nether one is really suitable for hunting; both at match bullets, BTHP and a regular HP. It also does not say they are Hornaday bullets. but if I go by this manual I can not load a 53gr. bullet for hunting in the 220 swift.

That is just what I load a 53gr, sierra bullet over 4064.

:D Al

It makes sense to use the manual by the bullet manufacture you are using. You wouldn’t use a Ford Manual for a Chevy.

Most bullet manufactures note the Gun used, barrel length, twist, Case used, the primer used, for the bullet and powder used. They usually all tell you not to start at max load, work your way up. The fastest speed is not always the best.

Starting out reloading most have an idea of the factory ammo they like best, the bullet they like best. Get the manual for the bullet you like best, do not start at the Max load, any of the manufactures more than likely are not using the Max load in their Premium ammo anyway. They have done extensive experiments, and have found the lowest and highest safe load for that caliber, cartridge and bullet. Just like using the Ford manual for a Chevy, just because your speedometer on your car says 150 mph don’t mean you should drive it that fast. And 150 mph more than likely is not going to get you the MPG rating either, or the optimal handling. You don’t take the average driver off the street and put them in a nascar. Nor do you expect Nascar performance, out of them or a car off the show room floor. Just because it says Ford on the Nascar, does not mean it has all Ford parts, it sure as heck don’t use the same fuel. It is not going to turn right as well as it does Left, or as well on a flat track as a banked one.

Point being hopefully,if you are starting reloading, this is not your first gun and Never shot or hunted before. You have some idea of the bullet you like, caliber and cartridge. You can buy Nascar quality equipment to start with, or the things you need, and everybody has an opinion on the things you need.