Reloading Kit Help
 

Hey guys, I have never reloaded before and want to get into it. The only thing holding me back is that I don't shoot a ton. If I were to buy a kit what would you guys suggest? Hopefully not looking to spend more than $250

Buy a quality single stage press - new or used. Something like a RCBS Rockchucker will serve well through a lifetime of reloading (and often beyond). A good reloading manual, scales and calipers of almost any brand, and a few odds and ends will give you a start. Buy dies and shell holders for the cartridges you load, but you are probably better off avoiding the cheapest ones on the market.

I sometimes see good used presses for sale. Good ones are nearly indestructible.

This is what I started with, but you'll need more than this, like a mentor to get you started.

Reloading your own ammo is a great thing... But you can get in serious trouble in a big hurry... I strongly suggest that you find someone that can at least get you started with the basics. My first reloads were for an ultra mag... I got into case stretch/head space issues right away. The guy that got me started didn't even realize what was happening, and gave up when the pressure spikes started happening... I had to seek a lot of advice before I learned about what was going on... Not a big issue if you understand whats happening... A potentially huge issue if you don't... It's an issue you may run into more with your .300 mag than your .308... I also strongly suggest you buy a chronograph, it's an invaluable tool to help you see such issues developing.

There's also plenty of equipment available on ebay, but if you don't know what your looking for, and why your looking for it I wouldn't bother.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/423...ProductFinding

I should also add that you'll need a manual. The Lee manual will get you started.

LD pretty much said it. A reloading manual is a must, one, two, three, like guns you can never have to many. A manual that explains the basics and gives an understanding of what is happening in the mechanics of a fired round and reloading. What to look for in cases, primers, that could spell trouble. Read it and as much info as you can. Fallow the powder loads and recommendations. Then you will have an idea of what you need for the basics. A chronograph is a very good thing to see how your reloads are performing and alert you to any unsafe issues and develop more consistent loads.

I also started with a Lee Anniversary Single Stage Kit. They've updated it to be a bushing press now, it wasn't a bushing when I bought mine ~15-16yrs ago.

Eventually I bought a progressive press, then sold it, bought a different progressive press, sold that. Now I'm back to using basically that same Anniversary kit, but have added a Lee Turret Press. I use the original Single Stage Challenge press as a universal decapper.

I'd highly recommend that kit, then potentially add another $100 for a turret press to speed things up a bit for you.

What comes in the kit:

• Single Stage Press
• One Breech Lock Bushing
• Hand Primer for large and small primers
• Case holder set for hand primer
• Powder Measure
• Safety Powder Scale (it's actually a balance, not a scale)
• Powder Funnel
• Case trimmer and lock stud
• Chamfer tool
• Primer pocket cleaner
• Case lube

I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things that I use, and every reloader will have their own personal preferences for gear, but here's what I'd recommend, above and beyond the kit...

What DOESN'T come in the kit that you'll NEED (minimum):

• Quiet, clutter free, well-lit space to work (no TV in this room)
• Bench to mount it on/work on (Black & Decker Workmate with a 2'x2'x3/4" plywood bolted top is a fine "space saving" and "budget friendly" option)
• Reloading Manual(s) (best to get a few, get info from your powder manufacturer AND bullet manufacturer both)
• Components: Brass, primers, powder, bullets
• Dies for your cartridge(s)
• More bushings if you want to save time swapping dies
• Lee cartridge length gauges (I'd recommend getting an RCBS Pro-trimmer instead)
• Reloading blocks (holds cases while you're working)
• Case cleaner (ultrasonic or tumbler)
• Calipers (digital is worth the price)
• Ammo boxes (to store loaded rounds - can use factory ammo boxes, but be careful)
• Case cleaning and lubricating brushes
• Tubs to store dirty, clean, and trimmed brass (I use rubbermaid tubs)
• Lots of sticky labels (label your reloading blocks "sized", "primed", Charged", "seated", "crimped", label your ammo boxes, label your case tubs, etc)

What doesn't come in the kit you might want, even as a beginner:

• Turret press to replace the single stage
• Universal decapping die (use the single stage as a dedicated decapper)
• Powder Trickler (mega handy, sucks trying to spoon 0.1grn)
• Electronic case prep station
• Electronic powder scale or dispenser (double check on Safety Scale)
• Chronograph

The Lee Turret Deluxe kit is another good option, but you may be overwhelmed with the autoprime and auto powder dispenser at first. You also may not trust the auto powder dispenser for precision loading. Personally, I don't. I used to use a Lee Perfect Powder Measure (in the Anniversary kit) to feed onto a digital scale, trim with a powder trickler, then checked every load on the Lee Safety scale (actually a BALANCE) for precision. Now I have a Hornady electronic powder dispenser/scale, so I use that to dispense and weigh, then I check it on the balance before charging the case.

Like I said before, different strokes for different folks, but this is what I'd recommend for a beginner on a budget.

Chronographs are good tools but you absolutely do not need one as a beginner.

You can save money in a lot of areas, but do not buy a discount press.

The toughest thing you have to face as a current new reloader is finding components (bullets, primers, brass, and powder).

+1, and also the electronic stuff. They're good, but not a necessity.

You didn't say what cartridges you want to reload. Once you start reloading, you probably will be shooting more. I started reloading many years ago when Herter's was one of the largest suppliers. I started reloading for a .30-06, then added .38 spl/.357 mag, then added .45 acp, then...46 years later, I'm still adding.

Like has been mentioned, a current reloading manual is one of the most important things to have. Powders, bullets, etc change so current manuals are a must. I have current manuals from each of the manufacturers of the bullets that I shoot.

Single stage presses work fine, they just aren't as fast as progressive presses. I started off with a Herter's "C" press, later upgraded it to a RCBS Rockchucker, and later added a Dillon progressive. I still load most of my rifle cartridges on the Rockchucker.

Most presses include a primer seating arm. Some people like the feel of a separate hand primer seater that are made my RCBS, Lee, and others.

Most of the dies that I use are RCBS, but I also use Hornady, Pacific, Lee, and Herters. For straight wall pistol cases, carbide size dies are great -- no lube required for sizing or to wipe off after. Case specific shell holders are required to hold the case in the press. They come in a variety of sizes for each family of case sizes, and must fit the ram of the press.

I lubed cases for many years with lube on an ink pad, now use my fingers and Imperial sizing wax for bottleneck cases and carbide size dies for straight wall cases..

I started with a Herter's balance scale, later upgraded to a RCBS 505 scale that I still use. I started off dropping powder onto the scale tray with a spoon, then graduated to a RCBS Uniflow powder measure and a powder trickler, and now also have a Dillon powder measure on my Dillon press.

A powder funnel is also almost a must. I have two funnels, one with a drop tube for large quantity powder loads.

Bottleneck cases have a tendency of getting longer with repeated firings and must have the mouth trimmed to their specified length. Lee makes an individual case length gage and cutter for specific cartridges that are inexpensive, and RCBS and others make hand lathe type universal case trimmers. I have and use both.

After you trim a case, you must remove the burrs from the inside and outside of the mouth of the case. The simplest deburring tool looks like a small rocket ship and is available from most reloading manufacturers.

A good (dial) caliper is almost a necessity of accurately measuring case and overall cartridge lengths.

Loading blocks are available commercially or can be made by carefully drilling rows of holes in a block of wood. They securely hold the cases in a vertical position throughout the reloading process, especially for single stage loaders.

The above highlighted items are what I consider the minimum necessary items to begin reloading. Once into reloading, you will probably forever continue add to this list.

Shotshell reloading is an entirely different game with it's own set of tools. About the only tool that is used for reloading both shotshells and metallic cases is a powder scale.

Agreed, but with a caveat... Having communicated with Jandrey in the whitetail forum I know that one of the cartridges he has is a .300 mag.

To be honest, I've never loaded the .300 mag. That said, I started loading a 7mm RUM. The first issue that came up was case stretch in front of the head. The guy that was teaching me was trying to do a "partial" resize, and the shoulder wasn't getting set back. This quickly developed into a pressure issue that we would more than likely not have been detected right of way had we not been using his Chrony.

I can see the same type of issue happening with the .300 if the cases aren't being fully resized properly.

So as I said, I agree that a Chrony isn't an absolute necessity But based on my very first experience with reloading, and now realizing what could have happened, I'll never develop a load without one.

My 2 cents...

I have several presses...most are 50 year old CH Magnum single stage presses (3 in all...the one I started with was my grandfathers)...I do have a 3 station/stage CH Magnum press as well used mostly for a few straight wall rifle cartridges...and I did get bit by the Dillon (a 550b) bug...I use it, but not often (mostly for 9mm/40 and 45). I love the Dillon, but I still prefer to do 90% of my loading on the CH's...one of which is also set up as only a de-priming station.

I guess my point is two fold...a good quality older press (if you can find one used) is a great investment and will outlive you...the CH that came from my grandfather has got to have a million loaded rounds under it. Secondly, a single stage press will do 99% of the work most loaders need/want.

Buy a couple reloading manuals and read them before you buy any gear...Nosler, Lee, Hornady, Speer...all good manuals.

Electronic gear is nice...I buy it, use it, box it up and put it on the shelf most times and revert back to old school tools. A good beam scale, powder trickler, case prep tools (debur, chamfer, etc), a quality set of calipers, and a press and dies will get you started.

Take your time and develop a routine...I complete the same steps everytime...write your process and hang it on the wall and follow it...it helps avoid errors that can be costly and dangerous (double charged cases, no charges cases, reverse set primers....)...it's not being over-dramatic to remind people can be killed or maimed if you good up.

Create a space for nothing but reloading....a designated area where distractions are minimal and the workspace can be kept clean.

Expect to spend way more than you plan...it happens! Don't get hung up on brands...buy what you like and what works for you. Have fun!

If you are reloading for speed then a corny is a must. If you are reloading for hunting then you want the bullet to go where you aim and expand.
Shooting targets will tell you if the bullets are going where you want them to go and the ones that give the best groups are the ones you want to test for expansion.
I do expansion test with old phone books (granger catalogs are thick and work well too.) or stacked wet newspapers in a wooden box I built to hold them.
Buy a kit you can afford, most I believe come with a manual. If not buy your self a manual as many as you can afford even.
I like my #45 Lyman Manual best but it is so old it doesn't have some of the newer stuff like 300 Win Mag, 260, and 7MM08 I load for.

:D Al

I like my Lyman #48 the best. I bought #48 in 05, but the copyright is 02.

Here's their newest edition.

Lyman Reloading Handbook: 49th Edition Reloading Manual

Not to hijack this thread, but you've got me puzzled here.

First, I successfully reloaded .30-06, .308 Win, .30 Gibbs, .257 Ackley Improved, .22-250, and a few others for about 20 years before I bought my first chronograph. Now I'm also reloading .375 RUM, .300 Weatherby, and 7mm Rem mag, and I've also upgraded my Chrony which I do use for all load development.

For at least 30 years, I've also "partial" resized all of my reloaded rifle cases by placing a 0.030" washer under my FL sizer die. This included all of the ammo that I took and used on a half dozen international hunts. Many bench rest competition shooters only neck size their cases. Either of these procedures insure that the resizing does not set the shoulder back, and that the cartridge will perfectly headspace on the shoulder of the case, which enhances accuracy and minimizes stretch of the body of the cases..

My next reloading purchase will be for Collet Neck Sizer dies for the cartridges that I shoot the most, including my .300 Weatherby.

Ok, so my questions are, how does partial resizing develop a pressure issue?, and how would that pressure issue be detected with a chronograph?

As to the first part of your question. I can fire new, and once fired cases. By the second firing the case has stretched far enough to start to push the shoulder into the chamber to far. I can fire twice fired cases, but can also detect the pressure issue developing. After the second firing all bets are off, and the shoulder has to be reset.

I have the full resize, as well as the neck resizer. I monitor the cases with the RCBS precision mic. The mic really reveals the progression of the case stretch.

The only theory I've come up with for the dramatic case stretch in the 7mm rum is because of the smaller case mouth on the 7mm vs. your .375

Now to the second part of your question... We were shooting at my friends home. He was loading three cases per load. We had a load that showed some promise, but he wanted to shoot a few more loads just to check. On the second firing of the same load we started to detect a spike in the fps, and the accuracy began to deteriorate. By the third firing of the same load the fps spike was so dramatic that my friend quit immediately. He knew that something was wrong, but didn't know what.

I finally talked to my gunsmith about what was going on, and of course he immediately told me what he thought was going on. Which was the case stretch/headspace issue.

I started with the Hornady Head and Shoulder comparator which revealed his theory to be true. I then bought the precision mic which I like much better.

As I monitor the case stretch with the mic, there is a direct correlation between it, and an increased fps on the chrony using the same loads. That fps increase comes right back down after I reset the shoulder.

I hope this explains your question about detecting the pressure spike with the chrony, and goes further to explain the potential trouble we could have ran into had we not been using the chrony, and my friend hadn't known that something was going wrong.

I did some digging... I forgot that the comparator was called the "Head and Shoulder" when it was being sold by Stoney Point... Hornady must have bought Stoney point, because I have both of these comparators, but I bought them as Stoney Point products.

The upside of the comparators is that they can be used on multiple cartridges vs. the precision mic which is cartridge specific.

http://www.midwayusa.com/find?userSe...ry=Comparators

http://www.midwayusa.com/find?userSe...Precision+mic+

Measuring the case length identifies this problem. Trimming the neck is the solution. The shoulder does not need to be pushed back.

This is a problem that should have never been if proper measuring had been done. The fact that it was spotted by a chronograph was a happy and lucky event. Experienced loaders always measure and trim as required, and would almost certainly have spotted the normal pressure signs without using a chronograph.

The thing that I take from this is to make sure that when you ask someone to help you learn to reload that they actually know something about it.

I have been using chronographs for many years. They are a valuable tool for measuring velocity and SD, but they are absolutely not necessary for a beginner that is trying to put together a reasonable kit for $250.

I understand that the same thing can happen as you said, with the cases being too long, but that wasn't the issue in my case. I can trim the cases to the proper length, but if the shoulder is to far forward the pressure issue persists. I didn't mention it before, because it wasn't what the problem was, but my friend did check the case length. He was thinking exactly what your saying.

A good reloader may have spotted the issue in time, but the chrony revealed it very quickly.


The issue was explained to me by a very good gunsmith. And his explanation was easily proven to be true by measuring the headspace with either the headspace comparator or the precision mic. Both tools take a measurement from the head to a datum point on the shoulder, not the case mouth.

Considering that tools such as the precision mic, and the headspace comparator were developed makes it obvious to me that I'm not the first to have such an issue. And using these tools, not my trimmer, has resolved the issue years ago.

Umm... Ya might want to think about it before you make such a comment... I had an issue that you've obviously never dealt with, or maybe never figured out... My gunsmith immediately figured out the issue. And what he thought it was, was immediately proven with the tools I've mentioned. As I said above, the issue was also resolved as a result.

Never said that... Just stated that I'll always us one, and why.

How did the round chamber with the shoulder too far forward?

We are messing up this guy's thread. Perhaps this should be discussed in a separate one.

I personally would rather see a person buy a kit and a good manual to start reloading. Leave the friends and family out of it and follow the step by step instructions in the reloading manual.
For over 40 years I have been reloading and when I am doing it nobody is with me because I do not need the distractions and many reloaders I feel have a very bad habit of filling a block with cases then filling the cases with powder then placing bullets to be seated.

Reloading is a relaxing hobby for me and I just plain do not want distractions while doing so.

I need to get a picture of my case size gauge. Have never seen another like it and t is great.

similar to mine.




:D Al

Wow, didn't mean to derail this thread by bringing the Chronograph into the mix!!

To those readers: Please go back and read the heading under which I listed the Chronograph = Stuff you MIGHT WANT....

Personally, I used the chronograph as a variation of the ladder test for many years before I even knew what a ladder test was. Across the bench, as I tuned up a load, if my velocities plateaued, then I stopped adding powder. No sense in throwing more powder at it and not getting anything back.

I also wanted to know, even from the beginning, how fast I was flying. Not so I could brag, or try to push the limits, but so I could get an accurate muzzle velocity to cross reference to the ballistic chart (now it's all calculators) to build a preliminary range card.

For a $100, a pro-chrony was probably one of the better investments I've made. Rather than shooting more money (aka rounds) downrange to determine my range card, the chrony gives a good ballpark to get me on the page as I move further out. Saves a lot of money over the years in components (bullets, powder, primers) and brass life.

So no, it's not a necessity, but I still think it's worth having on the list of something a new reloader MIGHT WANT. He11, I'd rather have a chronograph than an electronic powder scale or powder despenser anyday.

I agree with Nomercy here. A reloading Manual is a must, A Chrony is a very good thing to see. As in my first post on this thread. I pushed A reloading manual, it will tell you the things you need on a basic level. And will tell you the most important thing safety, in the use of those things. You may or may not want to spend a lot at first, but once biten by the bug, who knows. There are many good kits out there, but the most important thing is a manual. It will help you dicide based on the reloading you will be doing the basic things you need to get started in a safe way.

big uncle, I agree with you. talking over the guys head wont do him any good if he doesn't know what everyone is talking about. a single stage press is a good start to get into loading. don't know if a kit can be found for $250, but like one of the guys said, keep a look out for someone getting out of the reloading business. might pick up a good deal. also getting a good reloading manual is most important. Hornady is the one I recommend.

Be careful.

The Hornady manual will only be applicable to Hornady bullets. If he's not shooting a Hornady bullet, using their manual can be dangerous.

Since Lyman doesn't make a bullet it is dangerous to load using that manual? They only list bullets by weight (grains) and normaclture round nose ,flat nose, spire point and such.

Or is that the manual to use cause any bullet that fits the description will work?

GEEEZ!!!!


:D Al

It ultimately depends on what you are loading, but no, I never recommend a beginner reload with a manual that doesn't fit their bullet exactly. Examples of hazard: a longer profile bullet than the manual suggests might become a compressed load over a max charge when seated to the suggested coal. Might blow your rifle in half. Or a more blunted ogive bullet seated long might contact the lands, again, possibly causing a failure. If you're loading light for caliber bullets, it becomes less likely that an error like that can happen, but it's not failsafe. You can see these differences by crosser fermenting different manuals for the same bullet design. Many are quite similar for powder charge and bullet weight, but some might have 100-200fps difference for what looks like should be interchangeable bullets and different max charges. Or might have different coal. Put the larger listed max charge under the other bullet (maybe a different alloy, or a different bearing surface design) that is listed having a lower charge and you might blow something up.

So no, I don't use the Lyman manuals without exacting specs, and wouldn't recommend them for a novice reloader for that reason. I own them, and reference them, but I wouldn't go solely based on that info without treading very lightly. A new reloader may not know how to spot pressure signs, or may skip charge work up, or may not realize that a sticky bolt means something.

I'll have to look at the 7 other manuals I own to see what they have in them about pressure signs but the Lyman # 45 has a good section on what to look for. Beside hard extraction of the case too.

:D Al

I see what you are saying, for example, for a 180 gr bullet and IMR 7828 powder for a .300 Weatherby, Nosler lists a maximum load of 84.5 grains, and Hornady lists a maximum load of 81.9 grains.

That's why for all new loads we start several grains of powder below the listed maximum, regardless of the bullet or manual, and work up our loads, constantly looking for excess pressure signs.

Even though a bullet manufacturer lists a maximum load for a bullet that they make doesn't mean it would be safe in your gun.

I have manuals from each of the bullet manufacturers of the bullets that I shoot, and when I first start working an new load I will go to that bullet's manufacturer's manual first. But sometimes a manual won't list a powder that I want to use, and another manual would for that weight bullet.

Also, many manuals list loads for bullet weights, not specific bullet styles. For example, for .300 Wby, my Hornady manual lists the same load for 7 bullet styles for 178-180 grain bullets. These include spitzer, spire point, flat base, tipped boattails, HP boattails, and round nose bullets.

I happen to have my Hornaday forth edition Vol. 1 manual near me right now.
For 224 they show 15 different bullets for reloading 22 center fires from 40gr. to 70gr. I turn the page to the section for 220 swift and they list 2 53gr bullets and nether one is really suitable for hunting; both at match bullets, BTHP and a regular HP. It also does not say they are Hornaday bullets. but if I go by this manual I can not load a 53gr. bullet for hunting in the 220 swift.

That is just what I load a 53gr, sierra bullet over 4064.

:D Al

It makes sense to use the manual by the bullet manufacture you are using. You wouldn’t use a Ford Manual for a Chevy.

Most bullet manufactures note the Gun used, barrel length, twist, Case used, the primer used, for the bullet and powder used. They usually all tell you not to start at max load, work your way up. The fastest speed is not always the best.

Starting out reloading most have an idea of the factory ammo they like best, the bullet they like best. Get the manual for the bullet you like best, do not start at the Max load, any of the manufactures more than likely are not using the Max load in their Premium ammo anyway. They have done extensive experiments, and have found the lowest and highest safe load for that caliber, cartridge and bullet. Just like using the Ford manual for a Chevy, just because your speedometer on your car says 150 mph don’t mean you should drive it that fast. And 150 mph more than likely is not going to get you the MPG rating either, or the optimal handling. You don’t take the average driver off the street and put them in a nascar. Nor do you expect Nascar performance, out of them or a car off the show room floor. Just because it says Ford on the Nascar, does not mean it has all Ford parts, it sure as heck don’t use the same fuel. It is not going to turn right as well as it does Left, or as well on a flat track as a banked one.

Point being hopefully,if you are starting reloading, this is not your first gun and Never shot or hunted before. You have some idea of the bullet you like, caliber and cartridge. You can buy Nascar quality equipment to start with, or the things you need, and everybody has an opinion on the things you need.

Why would you think a Hornady manual would give you a load for a Sierra bullet?

I don't find info for changing the headgasket on a Chevy Silverado in a manual for a Ford F-150.

What you found in the Hornady manual is that HORNADY DOES NOT MAKE A 53grn 22cal HUNTING BULLET APPROPRIATE FOR THE 220 SWIFT. You did NOT find that you cannot load a 53grn bullet for hunting.

My contention still stands: generic loading info based on bullet weight is only safe if you're going through ALL of the steps to determine proper COAL and load work up. Sure, experienced reloaders can cook up SAFE loads that can't be found in any reloading manual (most of my "pet loads" aren't in any manual), but the OP here isn't an experienced reloader.

Keep it simple.

Point I was trying to make is of 14, 224 bullets listed in the Hornaday manual they only had two in the 53gr. range and they were not hunting bullets.

That is why owning more than one manual is handy cause Sierra manual does have a hunting bullet in that gr weight.


:D Al

Most who are thinking of reloading, own a gun they want to reload for. And more than likely have shot it enough to consider reloading as an option to factory ammo. So do you have a bullet type and style you like, most hunters/shooters do. Start with that bullet, get a manual from that bullet manufacture. A manual, for the bullet you are using is a must, as many reloading manuals as you can get is nice, but that comes with time.

Dies. RCBS and Lee both have very good dies for most Cartridges available most anywhere. Affordable and reliable. Time will tell if you want to up grade.

But read as much as you can about reloading. Your Brain is the best tool you have.

A single stage press is the simplest to use, and very versatile. Once again RCBS and Lee have some good ones easy to find most anywhere. Time will tell if you want to up grade.

A manual Priming tool.

Dial calipers, measuring Case length, and COAL.

If you plan on reloading cases more than once, a case trimmer. Reading the Manual will help you understand case length and neck length and how critical it can be. Safety.

De-burring tool, for case necks.

Primer pocket Brush. Better seating of the primer in the pocket.

Primers simplest way to start with, use the Primers the Manual suggest for the Bullet/Cartridge you are loading, they usually will have had good luck with them, as they experimented with the loads they show. Time will give you experience for experimentation

A loading block to hold the cases, during the various stages of reloading. One that will not tip over easily. Safety, powder poured all over the bench, not good.

Powder, most manuals will show the powder they have had the best results with, for the Cartridge you are loading. Just a starting point. Safety. Time will give you experience to experiment.

Scales a must, manual scales are very easy to maintain, fairly accurate with very little calibration with very little continuing calibration needed. Safety, to much powder, or to little powder can be a problem. Time will tell if you want to up grade. Time will also give you experience in changing powder loads, good notes as you go very helpful.

Powder measurement is critical, a powder trickler, is a very useful thing. Lee has measuring cups, useful for putting powder in the scale for rough measurement, trickle in for Fine tuning the powder charge.

A funnel to pour the powder into the case. Safety Powder everywhere not good.

The boxes for the reloaded ammo, boxes from factory ammo work well. Put a reloading label on it good to go. Most boxes of bullets have reloading labels in them, get a few extra labels.

Labels brings up keep accurate notes. Attention to detail in all stages, make sure each case has a primer before powder charge added, sounds simple easy to miss. Happens all the time.

Make sure each primed case has a powder charge before seating the bullet, once again sounds simple, but easy to miss. That too happens all the time.

Measure each reloaded round, to start with use the COAL for the Cartridge shown in the manual. Nothing wrong with using a manual, and the recommended specs. They are safe, safety is number one.