I think I am going to go with RCBS. The rockchucker has a kit and is relatively affordable and also there is an explorer kit which is almost the same thing. Seems like rockchucker is the way to go, so that will probably be my expense to start. I know there will be lots to learn as far as dies, powders, bullets, etc. So lets hope the IRS will get the refunds out and get this show on the road. I have been searching around for free load data. Does anyone have any suggestions of their own?

One question about dies. I see there are regular dies and there are dies that have a micrometer dial like the high end forsters that are like 100 bucks. Do those really help?

Yes...buy yourself a manual for the bullet you intend to shoot and use their load data. You have no idea of what went into "free load data" on the Internet and you really do not want to risk your firearm or body parts.

I am still new to reloading and I would echo what others have said about the single stage. There is a lot to learn at first and a progressive press will only make things more complicated. Start with the single stage. After a while you will have a better idea of what your reloading needs will be and how much time you can devote to this.

Reloading is a fun way to add a new element to your shooting.

Just buy the regular dies to start out. You can buy that fancy Nancy stuff once you get established and find you like doing it.

I like the Lyman rifle reloading manual which list several different bullets for each caliber.

Biggest thing is be consistent. Be anal about NO DISTRACTIONS. My family learned quick if I said I was going to reload so don't bother me. Only took one time of taking a head off and spitting down the neck before screwing the head back on to end that stuff.

Al

my vote is with RCBS also. ive been using on old RCBS jr. press for about 35 years and its still going strong. I load 300 H&H mags with it and have no problems with it. also load 30-06, 243, and 44 mags too. the rockchucker is a great press to get along with the kit.

I found a kit and I think I might be going for this. At least this is what I am interested in since it almost comes with everything. What do yall think about it?

http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBSr...h-All+Products

There's some "fluff" included here. The RCBS Rockchucker packages are generally the best way to get started, but you don't absolutely need an electronic powder measure or powered case prep tool to get started. Yeah, they're nice to have, but the next package down is less than half the cost of this one. If you have the money and are pretty convinced that you'll stick with reloading, they're something to consider. But, that's a lot of extra money tied up in expensive tools where a simple beam scale, Uniflow powder measure, and handtools can get it done as well.

I added the powder measure here some 25 years after I started reloading. It's usually pretty accurate, and I'm happy with it, but I still check it every few rounds with the old-fashioned beam scale from my original kit.

The tool that made the most difference in my reloading wasn't a reloading tool at all - a chronograph. When you start looking at the results downrange, any number of variables can play: Your shooting ability, capabilities of your firearm, environment, quality of your ammunition, ... It's the latter you're concerned with here, and if you're serious about accuracy, you need to be able to isolate and correct or mitigate any of the above factors. You can guess, or you can know. My "old" reloads weren't consistent from shot-to-shot, sometimes as much as 250 fps difference between them, but I didn't know that until I bought the chronograph. Is it any wonder then that I wasn't getting the results I could with factory ammunition? Live and learn. Isolated. Corrected. Of course, along the road to correction were more tools (caliper, runout gauge,...) and processes (case trimming, cleaning, ...). The downside, today I can't often excuse a miss on my reloads.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd have bought the same Rockchucker kit I did back then (the next one down from this one), a chronograph, a caliper, a case trimmer, a case tumbler, and still have had about the same amount of money into it that you're looking to invest here - but a more complete suite of equipment.

I have a progressive press, I load for pistol and rife. I found my self reloading for precision. You can get very good ammo out of a progressive press, but not that precise. A powder dump is not as precise as measuring each load yourself. COAL can differ, seating depth will very, not that much but. So it is what you want out of your reloading. If you want a number of rounds similar, and much like factory ammo, and in a lot of cases still better than factory ammo. Or do you want to tinker with the loads, as many, not all, but still many who reload do.

Like Homers Bother, said a chronograph, can be a very useful tool. The way you measure your powder can make a difference in speed. Very slight variations in powder can make just enough variation in speed, to effect area of bullet impact. It all depends on want you want out of your ammo. How deep into reloading do you want to go, what will satisfy you and your needs.

Thanks for all the input. The main reason I'm getting into reloading is because the 257 Weatherby Magnum ammo is hard to find and when I do find it, it's expensive depending what you shoot. The 100 grain spitzer are relatively cheap but they do not shoot well with my gun at all. I can't see paying almost 90 bucks a box when I shoot almost 2 boxes a month. As I did a little stock a while ago on the spitzer points cause they were cheap and almost always in Stock. I need to find a different grain to shoot. I'm not sure if I want to go heavier or lighter first. I wish I could make sample packs when I buy bullets. I hunt in Florida so I know any grain bullet will be fine down here. I might try the 115-120 grain area first. I can get some 117 sst from my uncle. Which will be my first bullet that I will reload once I find some powder lol. I'll be using the original brass from Weatherby and try federal primers first and we'll see what happens. I will also be reloading 69/70 grain 223. I think a chronograph is a good point and didn't even think about it until it was mentioned. I will definitely look into them. It would be nice to know how the bullet flies and then I can make spreadsheets.

Some times a bullet that doesn't seem to shoot well in your rifle will rise and shine with a change in powder. Even primers will make a difference in some rifles.
My hunting buddy came to deer camp one year with a new to him Ruger synithic stock bolt action chambered in 25-06. He flat out stold that rifle from the original owner.

Said it shot horrible with every box of factory stuff the guy tried so he took up reloading for it with the same results.

All it took to start shooting right was a change from large rifle primers to magnum large rifle primers.

Al

This is why consistency in processes and materials at the baseline and load development are so critical.

When I was younger and didn't take the time to understand, I'd whip out 100 rounds at a time of a load I had no idea would work well or not (hey, they had good bullets in them, though). Generally, they didn't work well. Once I figured out I had quite a bit of slop in my processes in general, and once I started load development in earnest, I'll generally find a "sweet spot" with just about every bullet/powder/primer combination.

My last effort was with .22-250, Varget, and 50gr V-Maxes. One load grouped (two groups of five rounds - three rounds doesn't give you enough feedback) averaged just over 1.1" at 100 yards. Not going to work on Prairie Dogs at 300. But a different charge of the same powder a few rungs up the ladder turned .46". I had yet another charge that turned .51".

Consistent processes and commitment to load development will help you squeeze the most out of your reloading operations.