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Anyone tried this?

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Anyone tried this?

Old 10-06-2011, 11:12 AM
  #11  
Typical Buck
 
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Magnum primers are generally hotter and loads need to be reduced not added to.

As for 3gr that is a whole lot of powder. In most of my manuals it is nearly the whole load window for the 06' family,w/some powders.

.3gr might be enough to use as a guideline.

Here's a place where I've caught hell before you may have a very touchy gun and it may settle down w/100 plus rds through it or not. I've 2 rifles same cal same brand similar modles. 1 has shot everything its fed well enough for the field and holds the vast majority of loads under 6" at 300yd. The other 1 will throw out groups for a case that is a gr heavy or light, the case mind you not the charge. For it I have to match cases to less than .5 o/u.

Another thought is that the load may be fast enough to be over stablized not a common problem but it can happen. It usually shows up way out w/bullets staying flat rather than following the flight arc. It may also show up as blown groups like you discribe if the bullet were to wobble and restablize between 100-200yd. Used to be very unlikely but is becoming more common.

Don't get in too big a hurry the gun will settle down. And you may find that it is an 1 1/2"gun.

Another thought check your action screws.
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Old 10-06-2011, 02:42 PM
  #12  
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About pulling the bullet and weighting the powder, you don't want to do that! Hornady has powders not avaliable to the public that they load ammunition with. Find a load in your manual that comes fairly close and work with it.

I stopped reading your post at the duplicating the powder part. W Unless the 8th edition is a specality cartridge, I doubt very much they'd leave out the 270 and 30-06!

Looking at the powder your using I'd say it's a bit to fast. Try the 4831's, R-22 and maybe W760/.H414. You don't really need a magnum primer but they used to be recommended for ball powders W760 and H414. Magnum primers are also used to ignite large cases of slow powders, you don't have that. Primers can make a difference though but they won't turn a 1 1/2" rifle into a 1/2" rifle!

Last edited by Don Fischer; 10-06-2011 at 02:49 PM.
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Old 10-06-2011, 02:54 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by chas0218 View Post
I have shot 4 different top shelf ammo manufacturers.

Barnes Vort-x triple shok boat tail
Hornady custom
Winchester supreme elite
Federal vital shock nosler partitions

I shot all side by side waiting between shots to allow proper cooling of the barrel and the Hornady superformance shot the best out of the rifle. I am just trying to get better accuracy out to 300 yards. My rifle shoots .5" or less groups at 100 yards but at 250 yards they are spread out to the size of a grapefruit. I am shooting off a Lead Sled rest so there is no flinching. Only thing I can think of is the barrel just isn't broken in yet. I have shot 40 bullets thru a brand new gun. Any advice would be great.

I was just thinking I would be able to have more consistent powder loads +/- .01 gr.

Anyone else have some tack driving loads they are willing to share.

On a side note I was just thinking that the powder I had was a little on the old side and I will try it with some newer powder and see what my results are.

Thanks,
Chas
Oh boy! The problem is not the ammo, it is the shooter. +/- .01 grains won't make a lot of difference. Factory stuff in loaded by bulk. A lot of bench resters load competition ammo with a powder dipper! If your powder is good but old, the only thing that will change is the lot number and you might find a difference ther in either direction.
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Old 10-07-2011, 03:07 PM
  #14  
Nontypical Buck
 
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Originally Posted by Don Fischer View Post
Oh boy! The problem is not the ammo, it is the shooter. +/- .01 grains won't make a lot of difference. Factory stuff in loaded by bulk. A lot of bench resters load competition ammo with a powder dipper! If your powder is good but old, the only thing that will change is the lot number and you might find a difference ther in either direction.
.... .01 is 100th of a grain. .1 is a tenth of a grain.....
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Old 10-09-2011, 07:50 PM
  #15  
Fork Horn
 
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Originally Posted by Pawildman View Post
.... .01 is 100th of a grain. .1 is a tenth of a grain.....
Your right! .1 still won't make much difference. I had Algerbra in the 6th graqde. AMy teacher told me he'd give me a D if I promised not to take anymore math!
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Old 10-14-2011, 03:07 AM
  #16  
Nontypical Buck
 
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Buy the Federal Blue Box ammo and give it a try. It's some if the cheapest ammo and it shoots well in any caliber I buy it for. I've used it in .243, .270, 7mmRem Mag, .30-06 so far and it shoots at least MOA with every gun. Of course I usually don;t hunt with the ammo, other than my .243, because I like working up a load and tinkering.
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:10 AM
  #17  
Fork Horn
 
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Originally Posted by chas0218 View Post
I was just wondering if anyone has pulled apart a superformance hornady cartridge to measure powder weight and tried duplicating it? I shoot .270 win and the superformance shoots good through my gun but not excellent. The price is a little high and would like to mess with the bullet seating depths to fine tune accuracy.

I heard there is a 8th edition of the hornady reloading book but seems like the older calibers have been left out like 30-06, .270 win and a few others.

This was just a thought and wanted to see if anyone was able to duplicate the results from the factory ammo.

If anyone has some load specs for a .270 win with a 130gr. SST it would be much appreciated. I have reloaded some with IMR 4350 but it doesn't shoot nearly as well as the superformance.

Thanks,
Chas
I think what your asking is about the powder? What do you want to duplicate, hope your not going to identify the powder and use it with the bullet's you pull? Definate no-no! Hornady has access to powder's you can't get.

Duplicating factory ammo is no big thing but what you want to do is find out the velocity and then match up to a bullet and powder combo that does that. To do this you'll need access to a chronograph. I wouldn't try to duplicate factory ammo, if you have a bullet you like develope your own load.

The bullet and cases are easily duplicated, just buy them. The primers may be a bit harder as you don't know what primer they use, just pick a primer and test them while shooting. The powder? Again, forget it!
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Old 10-16-2011, 06:36 AM
  #18  
Spike
 
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Originally Posted by Ridge Runner View Post

These are the 2 most common problems for shooters new to extended ranges
RR
we're not really talking about extended ranges here, we're only talking 300m. What do you consider extended ranges?
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Old 10-16-2011, 07:28 PM
  #19  
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I should have thought of this explaination........................


"either your improperly setting the parralex adjustment if you have one (if ya don't its still improperly set which changes the way you percieve the target in the scope" RR


That's why I was asking for you to remark.
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:26 PM
  #20  
Spike
 
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new here, but have had similar problems with new guns - Rem. 700 Mountain 280 Rem, and Tikka T-3 in 7MM Mag.

I switched brass, primers, bullets, and everything else you can think of, and then took a look at the barrel/stock bedding. Found high spot/twist in stock on Rem, and not the best bedding on the Tikka.

some work with sandpaper/dowel fixed the Rem., and judicious filing/sanding of the bedding block in the Tikka solved the problems.

Found the Rem, due to slim barrel contour only likes Sierra 160 SBT's, while the Tikka will print sub-MOA out to 400 yds with anything Flat Base between 120 and 150 grains. Nothing over.

Just may experiences.
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