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Anyone tried this?

Old 09-05-2011, 04:45 PM
  #1  
Spike
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Default Anyone tried this?

I was just wondering if anyone has pulled apart a superformance hornady cartridge to measure powder weight and tried duplicating it? I shoot .270 win and the superformance shoots good through my gun but not excellent. The price is a little high and would like to mess with the bullet seating depths to fine tune accuracy.

I heard there is a 8th edition of the hornady reloading book but seems like the older calibers have been left out like 30-06, .270 win and a few others.

This was just a thought and wanted to see if anyone was able to duplicate the results from the factory ammo.

If anyone has some load specs for a .270 win with a 130gr. SST it would be much appreciated. I have reloaded some with IMR 4350 but it doesn't shoot nearly as well as the superformance.

Thanks,
Chas
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:21 AM
  #2  
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I shoot heavier bullets in my 270 WIN, which is an older Remington 700 BDL...as it seems to prefer the 150's, so that is what I stuck with.

My best load to date (1" groups @ 100) has been 150g Nosler Ballistic Tips, pushed with 50g of H4350, Federal Premium GM210M (Match) primers...but I have had good luck with IMR 4895 as well.

You may want to try a different bullet brand/weight or try more powder combos. Not sure why you would want to duplicate the factory load, as you state that that load only shoots god, not great through your rifle. Anyway, my experience has been that it may take several different combos tried before you find the right one. I have some rifles that prefer one brand of brass over another and some that are picky about the primers...and some that shoot anything you shove down it well...happy reloading and good luck!
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:01 PM
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I have shot 4 different top shelf ammo manufacturers.

Barnes Vort-x triple shok boat tail
Hornady custom
Winchester supreme elite
Federal vital shock nosler partitions

I shot all side by side waiting between shots to allow proper cooling of the barrel and the Hornady superformance shot the best out of the rifle. I am just trying to get better accuracy out to 300 yards. My rifle shoots .5" or less groups at 100 yards but at 250 yards they are spread out to the size of a grapefruit. I am shooting off a Lead Sled rest so there is no flinching. Only thing I can think of is the barrel just isn't broken in yet. I have shot 40 bullets thru a brand new gun. Any advice would be great.

I was just thinking I would be able to have more consistent powder loads +/- .01 gr.

Anyone else have some tack driving loads they are willing to share.

On a side note I was just thinking that the powder I had was a little on the old side and I will try it with some newer powder and see what my results are.

Thanks,
Chas
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:50 PM
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Chas,

What gun & scope are you shooting ?

Did you do anything to it right out of the box ?
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Old 09-07-2011, 06:24 AM
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I am shooting a Tikka T3 Hunter in .270 Win it has a 3x9-40 Nikon BDC scope. The only thing I did to the rifle was clean it and lowered the trigger pull to 3lbs. (factory is 3.5lbs.) I tried a higher trigger pull but I was getting groups the size of pie plates. The worst part about the T3 is my wife's Rem 770 shoots just as well and its 1/2 the cost not including my scope.
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Old 09-07-2011, 02:45 PM
  #6  
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2 points;

Ok - so it's new, maybe needs a 100 rounds down the tube before it shoots ??

Second, maybe try some less expensive ammo - you might just get lucky and your gun really like the cheap stuff ! :-)

Just read your last post again - what's your twist rate & what weight bullets are you using ?

If your bullets are too heavy for your twist rate that would explain why your groups look so good at 100 yards, but you can't hold sub MOA groups at 300 yards.


Where's Ridge Runner when you need him ??? :-)
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:34 AM
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The twist rate on the .270 WIN in the Tikka's is 1:10"...so bullet weight shouldn't be the problem here. As Sheridan mentions though, I would also recommend continuing to try different loads and bullet weights. My Tikka in 270 WSM shoots real well, but I had a couple early loads it did not like. My .270 WIN is an older Remmy 700 BDL and I provided the load I have had the best luck in it, which produces MOA groups.

One thing to consider...not picking on you, but just putting it out there. Just because you can produce good groups @ 100 doesn't mean you'll be able to duplicate that performance out to 300 with a new gun immediately. It takes time with a new rifle to develop accuracy the further out you shoot, even with a leadsled. It may also just need some good ole break in time. Not every rifle shoots like a dream out of the box, may take 100 rounds or more to get there. Did you follow one of the well recommended barrel break in procedures?
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Sheridan View Post
2 points;

Ok - so it's new, maybe needs a 100 rounds down the tube before it shoots ??

Second, maybe try some less expensive ammo - you might just get lucky and your gun really like the cheap stuff ! :-)

Just read your last post again - what's your twist rate & what weight bullets are you using ?

If your bullets are too heavy for your twist rate that would explain why your groups look so good at 100 yards, but you can't hold sub MOA groups at 300 yards.


Where's Ridge Runner when you need him ??? :-)
I shot cheap stuff thru it at first and it wasn't bad but Hornady gave me sub-moa groups at 100 so I figured it was best to stay with them. The rate of twist in my barrel is 1:10" and I am shooting

140gr. hornady SST bullets
47gr. of imr4350
magnum primers (CCI)
Total cartridge length of 3.511" (same as hornady factory round)

I was going to start playing with the length of the cartridge to see if I could improve the accuracy.

Originally Posted by emtrescue6 View Post
The twist rate on the .270 WIN in the Tikka's is 1:10"...so bullet weight shouldn't be the problem here. As Sheridan mentions though, I would also recommend continuing to try different loads and bullet weights. My Tikka in 270 WSM shoots real well, but I had a couple early loads it did not like. My .270 WIN is an older Remmy 700 BDL and I provided the load I have had the best luck in it, which produces MOA groups.

One thing to consider...not picking on you, but just putting it out there. Just because you can produce good groups @ 100 doesn't mean you'll be able to duplicate that performance out to 300 with a new gun immediately. It takes time with a new rifle to develop accuracy the further out you shoot, even with a leadsled. It may also just need some good ole break in time. Not every rifle shoots like a dream out of the box, may take 100 rounds or more to get there. Did you follow one of the well recommended barrel break in procedures?
I broke the gun in by cleaning it all first. Then shot 1 round cleaned the barrel then shot another cleaned and repeated for the first 5 rounds. Then went and shot 5 rounds thru it then cleaned it. Repeated last. Then went home to give it 1 more cleaning before putting away.

The whole time I was allowing the barrel to cool between shots and cleaning.

My only thought was maybe the barrel was leading up a little. Is hoppes #9 a lead solvent (label is old and I can't read it?) I have some other stuff that is supposed to be for cleaning out copper and lead I might try and see how it shoots.
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:39 AM
  #9  
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Chas,

Good break-in proceedure, and yes you need to use copper removal also (I use Shooter's Choice).

If you are looking for good groups "during" the break-in period..............I don't even care about the first 3 shots after cleaning the barrel; still pushing solvent & oil out of your just cleaned barrel.

I do look at the next 2 to 3 shots, once I have some fouling from the previous rounds.

I must admitt; I really don't look for the right ammo or the best groups until I have at least 100 rounds through a new tube.


Lastly, any gun will shoot differently (POI) with a cold clean barrel VS a dirty warm barrel (part of the reason for barrel break-in - reduces the difference of POI between the two).


BTW - That's why a lot of experienced hunters will always shoot 3 "fouling" rounds, and then put their rifle away "dirty" before going hunting the following day.

Just my way of breaking-in my rifles.

Last edited by Sheridan; 09-08-2011 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:02 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Sheridan View Post
Chas,

Good break-in proceedure, and yes you need to use copper removal also (I use Shooter's Choice).

If you are looking for good groups "during" the break-in period..............I don't even care about the first 3 shots after cleaning the barrel; still pushing solvent & oil out of your just cleaned barrel.

I do look at the next 2 to 3 shots, once I have some fouling from the previous rounds.

I must admitt; I really don't look for the right ammo or the best groups until I have at least 100 rounds through a new tube.


Lastly, any gun will shoot differently (POI) with a cold clean barrel VS a dirty warm barrel (part of the reason for barrel break-in - reduces the difference of POI between the two).


BTW - That's why a lot of experienced hunters will always shoot 3 "fouling" rounds, and then put their rifle away "dirty" before going hunting the following day.

Just my way of breaking-in my rifles.
No I agree 100% about the first 3 shots thru a clean barrel with solvents. I don't bother adjusting the scope until the 4th or 5th shot if for some reason its off. I normally run a single dry patch down the barrel without any solvent just to clean the old powder out and keep it from rusting if it gets a little moisture.

I am starting to think my barrel needs a few more rounds down it to knock off the high points from the machining process. Looks like I need to make a few more trips to the range. I am also buying some new powder and trying that.

Is it always a good rule of thumb to allow 3gr. more powder from a magnum primer?
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