reloading problem, please help
#11
RE: reloading problem, please help
Rookie question,
Ok above is me and here is the question.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote<font size=1 face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>1. lube up case and neck of brass
2. set brass up for resizing and knock out the old primer
3. let brass soak in water to remove lube.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' size=2 id=quote>
Ok you have did 1 & 2 why #3? Even after drying for a while could you still have some in the brass that would cause problems with the powder or primer? Are you using some type of air to dry them out? Do you not need the lube for the other steps?
Also do you use a light coat of lube on the inside of the neck to help seat the bullet?
Sorry to ask questions on another post but it just seemed the place to ask.
Thanks
Rick
Lifes not about knowing the answers, its about asking the questions.
Ok above is me and here is the question.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote<font size=1 face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>1. lube up case and neck of brass
2. set brass up for resizing and knock out the old primer
3. let brass soak in water to remove lube.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' size=2 id=quote>
Ok you have did 1 & 2 why #3? Even after drying for a while could you still have some in the brass that would cause problems with the powder or primer? Are you using some type of air to dry them out? Do you not need the lube for the other steps?
Also do you use a light coat of lube on the inside of the neck to help seat the bullet?
Sorry to ask questions on another post but it just seemed the place to ask.
Thanks
Rick
Lifes not about knowing the answers, its about asking the questions.
#12
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Western Nebraska
Posts: 3,393
RE: reloading problem, please help
Herman and Bill get my vote.....I suspect you're trying to crimp onto a non crimp area.....make sure the seating die is at least 1/8 inch away from the upper stroke of the shell holder.....
If you're full length resizing, the shell holder should kiss the bottom of the resizing die.....but for seating the die should be at least a sixteenth away from the shell holder unless you wish to crimp the case onto the bullet and that requires some finess!!!
If you're full length resizing, the shell holder should kiss the bottom of the resizing die.....but for seating the die should be at least a sixteenth away from the shell holder unless you wish to crimp the case onto the bullet and that requires some finess!!!
#13
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Lake Jackson Texas USA
Posts: 52
RE: reloading problem, please help
Thanks for all the suggestions. I decided to take apart my dies and give them a good cleaning.
The case lube I am useing is water soluable and once I soak them in water I place the cases in the oven for a short period of time. I am guessing that my problem has something to do with when I am seating the bullet. I am trimming all my cases to length according to the Nosler reloading manual.
Get back to you later after I give your ideas a try. Thanks again.
The case lube I am useing is water soluable and once I soak them in water I place the cases in the oven for a short period of time. I am guessing that my problem has something to do with when I am seating the bullet. I am trimming all my cases to length according to the Nosler reloading manual.
Get back to you later after I give your ideas a try. Thanks again.
#14
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Big Sandy TX USA
Posts: 280
RE: reloading problem, please help
Boy does this sound familiar. The first time I loaded I was lubing away and putting some bullets together. After a while I noticed these dents in the brass. I didn't know what in the world was causing that. I though something was wrong with my die. I tried everything. I went and did some more reading to figure out what it was. The reloading manual said that beginners often over lubricate brass and get "rookie dents" in the brass. After that I cleaned the dies and quit lubing as much the problem stopped.
#15
RE: reloading problem, please help
Wt
How does over lubing the brass cause the denting? and how much is too much? Is spray better than the pads?
Boy Im glad Im not answering all these questions <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> but I really do thank each of you for your help.
Rick
Lifes not about knowing the answers, its about asking the questions.
How does over lubing the brass cause the denting? and how much is too much? Is spray better than the pads?
Boy Im glad Im not answering all these questions <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> but I really do thank each of you for your help.
Rick
Lifes not about knowing the answers, its about asking the questions.
#17
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 3,516
RE: reloading problem, please help
Who:
The dents are caused by excessive lube these dents are called hydraulic dents. One cannot compress a liquid, so the lube gets trapped between the inside die surface, and the case when sizing. The die is stronger than the brass, so the brass dents because the lube has to go somewhere which causes a dent.
You just want to very very lightly coat the case.
What kind of lube is a presonal preference. Many people like the spray better. I have never used the spray just the lube pad. One guy on this forum uses some kind of wax he says its the best. Good luck.
The dents are caused by excessive lube these dents are called hydraulic dents. One cannot compress a liquid, so the lube gets trapped between the inside die surface, and the case when sizing. The die is stronger than the brass, so the brass dents because the lube has to go somewhere which causes a dent.
You just want to very very lightly coat the case.
What kind of lube is a presonal preference. Many people like the spray better. I have never used the spray just the lube pad. One guy on this forum uses some kind of wax he says its the best. Good luck.
#18
Join Date: May 2003
Location:
Posts: 3
RE: reloading problem, please help
Midway has a waterbase shell lube that can be used wet or dry and will not damage the primer or powder if you accidently touch them. When you are done, just wipe them clean.
If any of you tumble polish you shells, you can alway polish your completed round to make them look spiffy and clean.
I usually tumble clean all my brass before relaoding them. Nice shinny brass relaod easier, uses less lube and you can easily check for damaged or deformed cases. During inspection, you can check case length, etc...
If any of you tumble polish you shells, you can alway polish your completed round to make them look spiffy and clean.
I usually tumble clean all my brass before relaoding them. Nice shinny brass relaod easier, uses less lube and you can easily check for damaged or deformed cases. During inspection, you can check case length, etc...
#19
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Brook, IN
Posts: 491
RE: reloading problem, please help
What type of lube are you using. I like the LEE lube. It comes in a toothpaste tube form. You rub a LITTLE on the brass and resize, then wipe it off with a cloth. It is slower than a spray though.
I had some .308 cases do the same thing and I found my die (neck sizer only) was sizing the neck diameter too small. I adjusted my die, never had the problem again.
The dented cases sound like too much case lube.
I had some .308 cases do the same thing and I found my die (neck sizer only) was sizing the neck diameter too small. I adjusted my die, never had the problem again.
The dented cases sound like too much case lube.
#20
RE: reloading problem, please help
I believe you mean the case is being damaged during bullet seating!!?? IF SO, my guess is that your die is trying to apply a crimp to the case when there' s no cannelure (crimping groove) on the bullet under the case neck. If so, the case brass has no place to go when the die tries to crimp it, and the case collapses at the neck/shoulder junction. This effectively ruins the case, and it won' t chamber!!
To test if this is what is happening, put any empty case into the shell holder, and raise the ram to push the case up into the die. You will feel the point where the crimping shoulder stops the case travel BEFORE IT GETS TO THE TOP OF THE STROKE!!??
IF THIS IS WHAT IS HAPPENING, JUST BACK OUT THE SEATING DIE A TURN OR TWO, TO THE POINT THAT THE CRIMPING SHOULDER IN THE DIE NO LONGER TOUCHES THE CASE WHEN THE RAM IS ALL THE WAY UP!! TEST THIS BY RUNNING AN EMPTY CASE INTO THE DIE. IT MUST ENTER FREELY, WITHOUT TOUCHING ANYTHING WHEN ALL THE WAY IN THE DIE. THEN SCREW THE BULLET SEATING STEM DOWN TO THE POINT WHERE IT SEATS THE BULLET TO THE DEPTH YOU WANT!! This same thing happened to me when I started reloading, WAY back in 1954!! Ruined several .30/' 06 cases before it dawned on me what was happening!!
To test if this is what is happening, put any empty case into the shell holder, and raise the ram to push the case up into the die. You will feel the point where the crimping shoulder stops the case travel BEFORE IT GETS TO THE TOP OF THE STROKE!!??
IF THIS IS WHAT IS HAPPENING, JUST BACK OUT THE SEATING DIE A TURN OR TWO, TO THE POINT THAT THE CRIMPING SHOULDER IN THE DIE NO LONGER TOUCHES THE CASE WHEN THE RAM IS ALL THE WAY UP!! TEST THIS BY RUNNING AN EMPTY CASE INTO THE DIE. IT MUST ENTER FREELY, WITHOUT TOUCHING ANYTHING WHEN ALL THE WAY IN THE DIE. THEN SCREW THE BULLET SEATING STEM DOWN TO THE POINT WHERE IT SEATS THE BULLET TO THE DEPTH YOU WANT!! This same thing happened to me when I started reloading, WAY back in 1954!! Ruined several .30/' 06 cases before it dawned on me what was happening!!