Ok, I just shot about fourty 30-06 rounds and can average about a 2" group @ 100 yards. I did 2 different loads at about 2700 and on at about 2650 fps with 165g nosler partitions. If I go to a lighter load will my accuracy be better. These will be for hunting(for elk) but I want the best groups I can get.

There is absolutely no way to predict if reducing the powder charge will result in more or in fact less accuracy.It may also have no noticeable effect.Changing bullets,powders,primers or seating depthall mayincrease or decrease accuracy,but there is no way to predict this without actual load testing.

While not cast in stone.....I have noted a few general things that normally work for me. First, the fuller the case is with powder...the better the overall accuracy of the load. Second, usually the powder that lists in the manuals as highest speed seems to shoot the best. Third, play with that seating depth. Fourth, crimping can have a positive affect on your accuracy.

Realising that Nosler Partition produces more pressure than a standard 165 grain bullet (if all else is equal...powder, primer, rifle), you should be able to get fairly close to 2850 - 2900 fps. I would be tempted to try H4350 and work up as close as I could to 58.9 grains of said powder. I probably wouldnt use a magnum primer, until all else fails. Once I got up to maximum loads, I would then mess around with seating depth. I would determine maximum overall length for my rifle. Then I start seating the bullet deeper and deeper until I got maximum accuracy for that case/bullet/powder/primer. If it wasnt good enough, I may try a different primer or powder. The bullet you have picked is an extremely good bullet and should give you very good accuracy. I dont think there is a better "all around" hunting bullet design than the Partition.

You have to understand that 30-06 loads listed in manuals are a bit light for modern rifles. This is due to two reasons...First, there are some very weak actioned 30-06s still alive that could not handle the pressure a modern rifle can. Second, we cant make the new Super Sizzler 7000 look as good if the ole '06 isnt toned down a tad. So, hile not advocating simply loading max listed loads, I would not be at all afraid to work my way up to listed maximum loads. Of course, this assumes I am using a modern 30-06 such as a Remington 700 or a Winchester Model 70.

Try a 180 gr. Nosler Partition its a better bullet for elk. Good luck.

in nosler 165gr most accurate loads i shot was with imr 4350 at 57.5gr every C.O.L was 2.490 and and i used rem primers that was chronoed 2846fps
the fastiest load i shot was 3027fps on the chrono same C.O.L with RL 22
at 62.5 gr with rl22 i was in the area of risk do to the case being compressed close to 105% and it was not as acuurate

in 180 par everything was the same except i used AA3100 58.0gr and got 2764fps with great accuracy and i readwhat one person wrote about more the cases is filled better the accuracy and in my tests he 100% write

if is started seating deeper and deeper i would then start watching forhigh pressure signs

Generally speaking....I like to start about .005 from the lands. Some of my rifles like the bullets seated out so the engage the lands. This will increase pressure and has to done with extreme care. Seating the bullet deeper into the case or away from the lands creates freebore which reduces pressure. Weatherbys are notorious for having excessive freebore for this precise reason. Of course, if you start compacting the powder by seating deeper into the case, pressure can increase. Tweaking the seating depth is an age old way to find your best accuracy with a load.

"There is absolutely no way to predict if reducing the powder charge will result in more or in fact less accuracy.It may also have no noticeable effect.Changing bullets,powders,primers or seating depthall mayincrease or decrease accuracy,but there is no way to predict this without actual load testing. "

Which is why reloading is so much fun.

The best is when you think you have it figured out and the gun shoots great. You load a box of shells and 2 months later when its colder out and you re-site gun in for hunting and for whatever reason the gun just doesnt shoot the same. Gotta love it.

Thought I would add a comment to you gandilamont.

Your new to reloading, so I'll guess you are starting to build you line of equipment. At this stage of reloading, I think your focus should, and likely is, to be accomplishing safe reloading practices, and gaining experiences.

You should not be overly concerned at this point about your ability to find the recipe right away that will give you sub moa results. Getting sub moa results is often a very elusive goal, and can be accomplished by an unpredictable change in the recipe.

My suggestions - focus on safety first, it sound's like you may have done that with your given results, you just have to realize it yourself as a worthwhile and worthy goal.

Next, you will find reasons as you continue reloading to get more tools - like a stoney point guages for seating depth, different powders, a chrono, different primers. You don't have to worry about not having all of them now - just aquire them as you can, when you have a reason to employ the tool.

So the biggest suggestion from me - if you have used all of your currently available tools, just don't reload too many bullets for now. You may find in a year or two you want to come back to this gun, and use some of the tools you'll aquire during the next couple of years - for now, any suggestion we can give you would depend on what you have available. It is the elusiveness of getting the right recipe that makes reloading so much fun. Sometimes it is obtained immediately, sometimes it takes months of trials.

Looks like you are proceeding with building your knowledge, that's good. The best way for us to help you may be to know what equipment you have available, and if you have some room in the finances to purchase more. Then we could suggest your 'next' tool purchase.

Good job by the way. Congrat's.