Paper Tuning
#2
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis, Mo USA
When paper tuning my bow I usually stand about 3yds from the paper.
The reason I shoot so close is because the farther you get away from the paper the more time your fletches have to correct any radical arrow movement.
Tune it at a close range of around 10 feet. When you get a bullet hole there move back to 20 and you should get the same results.
Shut up and shoot already.
The reason I shoot so close is because the farther you get away from the paper the more time your fletches have to correct any radical arrow movement.
Tune it at a close range of around 10 feet. When you get a bullet hole there move back to 20 and you should get the same results.
Shut up and shoot already.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
From: Vermilion OH USA
IMHO---Paper tuning is a step in the tune process. Start at about ten feet and shoot a shot. Back up a step and shoot a shot.
Do this until the "kick" is the worst,through paper. Tune from there.
Keep in mind this is a little bit of an appearance thing. It looks good, but it is not neccessarily the set up that will give you the best groups.
ken12
Do this until the "kick" is the worst,through paper. Tune from there.
Keep in mind this is a little bit of an appearance thing. It looks good, but it is not neccessarily the set up that will give you the best groups.
ken12
#4
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Pennsylvania, USA
thanks for your imput 1fastcam & bowpro.
i'm shooting bullet holes at 8 feet and have a very tight pattern at 20 yds. the only problem is my arrow is sitting on my rest with the point sloped down a 1/2 a bubble off center towards the bow. Is this properly tuned or is something wrong?
i'm shooting bullet holes at 8 feet and have a very tight pattern at 20 yds. the only problem is my arrow is sitting on my rest with the point sloped down a 1/2 a bubble off center towards the bow. Is this properly tuned or is something wrong?
#5
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Paducah KY USA
Hi bowperson,
Don't have an answer to your question, but one of the best on-line sources of information, I've come across, on bow tuning, is at this site by O.L. Adcock. You may have already used this site.
< http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm >
Hope someone can supply you with a definitive answer to your problem.
Bowpro, like the idea of backing up till the "kick" is the worst,through paper. Tune from there" Sounds like a fine tuning technique.
gg<u></u>
Don't have an answer to your question, but one of the best on-line sources of information, I've come across, on bow tuning, is at this site by O.L. Adcock. You may have already used this site.
< http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm >
Hope someone can supply you with a definitive answer to your problem.
Bowpro, like the idea of backing up till the "kick" is the worst,through paper. Tune from there" Sounds like a fine tuning technique.
gg<u></u>
#6
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: mesa az USA
I am in agreement with "Fastcam & Bowpro" I start very close(2.5 to 3 yrds) then move back until I get a bad tear. Starting close can sometimes give you clues as to why your bow is set up strangly. If you get a bad tear at thee yrds, your arrow could be in a recovery point when it reaches the paper at longer distances. Also recheck (tiller and cam timing) if shooting a two cam bow. If you've checked everything and you're getting a got tear at short and long distance, happy shooting.
Fred
Fred




