Does anyone know about trailer brakes
03-29-2010, 07:35 AM
#11
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: St. Louis metro IL
Posts: 78
Originally Posted by Mark S
Trailers with surge brakes have a fifth wire which needs to be wired to your backup lights. So when your tow rig is put in reverse, an electric selenoid actuates releasing the hydraulic pressure in the system, allowing you to back up. Or you can stick a penny in the slot on the tongue.
When they work LOL
03-30-2010, 06:33 AM
#14
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: central and east texas
Posts: 4,894
ya, but you wouldnt wanna do that....just go get proper hook ups. and there should be a control as too how much break pressure is applies to the traitor brake when you hit the trucks breaks. turn it down when backing up, or just use your E-Brake.
03-30-2010, 06:05 PM
#15
Fork Horn
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 433
Originally Posted by halfbakedi420
ya, but you wouldnt wanna do that....just go get proper hook ups. and there should be a control as too how much break pressure is applies to the traitor brake when you hit the trucks breaks. turn it down when backing up, or just use your E-Brake.
03-31-2010, 05:48 AM
#17
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: St. Louis metro IL
Posts: 78
Originally Posted by carpsniper
Must be electric. 'cause he said a ground wire fixed it.
03-31-2010, 02:17 PM
#18
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: central and east texas
Posts: 4,894
Originally Posted by barrelslime
No Mark has it they are surge brakes, but you need an electric current to bipass the master cylinder when backing up. My bad ground was causing the brakes to lock.
is this the same place i put a penny? or should i say the same effect?
04-02-2010, 05:40 AM
#19
Fork Horn
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location:
Posts: 237
Not all surge break systems have the electric bypass. Older ones sure don't, and most of the ones here at my lab don't. Depending on the design of the surge brakes, a penny may not work. Some require a bolt that passes through one or two arches. I keep a bolt for this purpose in the cab of my trucks, since this is more common here than the kind that work with a penny. If you are trying to back up over rutted gravel, it is as bad as backing uphill, or worse, especially if you are trying to stick the boat in a tight place. When those trailer brakes kick in, you can't steer. And I used to have to squeeze my big boat into a barn door only 6" wider than the boat, uphill over a gravel parking lot. I'd have lower the motor to get the tongue inside the barn door too. The rig length (truck and trailer) was a hair under 50 ft, and the distance to the pond in front of the barn was 55 feet. Not the kind of job you leave to the new technician. And you better believe I used the bolt in glove compartment every day.
There are a lot of designs for these surge brakes, but many of them have an extra wire that is designed to hook onto the truck and cause the trailer brakes to lock up if the trailer comes off the hitch. If that system ever engages on you for whatever reason, after you clean your shorts and get the truck and trailer hooked up again, you will probably need to chock the tires and back the truck a bit to compress the cylinder before you can get the lever that locks up the brakes back into the running position. Otherwise you will be dragging the trailer home.
There are a lot of designs for these surge brakes, but many of them have an extra wire that is designed to hook onto the truck and cause the trailer brakes to lock up if the trailer comes off the hitch. If that system ever engages on you for whatever reason, after you clean your shorts and get the truck and trailer hooked up again, you will probably need to chock the tires and back the truck a bit to compress the cylinder before you can get the lever that locks up the brakes back into the running position. Otherwise you will be dragging the trailer home.
