Just wanted to let any one know about my new lighting set up on my boat. I went to Walmart(I know) and got two sets of two- car 12 volt halagon lights for $17 each. That is $34 for the math challenged. Each set came with fuse and switch. Of course I wired them all together to one switch. I had the 8 inch brackets to mount them. They also have a swivle base to adjust the lights. Now I do have to get two more batteries to run them. Last night they really looked good. Will not be able to really tell until on the water, but they sure did light up my garage. Although this morning after dwelling on it all night, I think I am going to move my back light up front to the other side. I think I need more light in the front. Wish I knew how to sent pictured with this thing. But maybe Christie will attack the pictures I sent her. Will eliminate the noise of a generator. Also for us electrically challenged. Do I need to hook the two batteries in a series or parellel? and how do I do that?? Help..Aim Low and Let'er go

I have some lights like that for bigheads. I melted the small wires, then the fuse holder that came with them. now have them rewired with 16ga between the lights and 12ga feeding them. when i melted it down i only had 4.I had 2slightly off from straighahead and 2 at 60 deg.I then went to 6 and it wasnt bad. had 2 straight ahead, 2 on 45 deg and 2 off to sides. now have 2 more and they are at 30 deg on front. with the 4 we ran for 2-3 hrs constant on before i thought it was time for a battery change. for bigheads one battery will last all night. i belive you will need to hook you neg to the boat or neg wire on light, then hook your pos on the other batt to the hot light wire. then conect the neg to neg and pos to pos. I think that is right.

Johnny,
If you have 12 volt lights and 12 volt batteries, then you want to hook the batteries up in parrallel, sothe combination isstill 12 volts, but can supply twice the current of a single battery. Just hook the positives to each other, and the negatives to each other, and treat them as a single battery. I'd advise covering up one or both terminals since a short curcuit on a combo like that can have a very enlightening arc-flash.

About the wire size, that totally depends on the current you are pushing through them, and that depends on your load (lights). As a general rule, bigger wire is safer andwill run cooler. You can't get too big, only too small.Each of your lights will have a current rating (amps) or power rating (watts) listed along with the operating voltage. I (or many others here I'm sure)can help you run the numbers if you know the watts or amps.

Also, I'd recommend having a master fuse for the whole thingy, not just individual fuses at each light, and your master fuse should be sized accordingto your total load and corresponding wire size. Be aware that devices like switches also need to be rated for the power they will be used on, or they will overheat or melt. Again bigger is better.They may alsohave different ratings for AC vs DC applications. They can always handle more AC than DC, so read carfully or make sure that the guy helping you pick out your components knows the difference.

I do electrical stuff for a living, so feel free to post here or PM me with any other questions or specifics. The calcs aren't really tough at all. You just have to know when to apply which rules.

Good lord, I've written a book.
Good luck.
-Bulz

Johnny B's lights:

Yea, what Bulz said! Oh, and remember that those two extra batteries must also be tied down in coast guard approved battery boxes or containers and terminals at least covered as you would any other battery aboard the boat. Looking good.

HAY GUYS,
Thanks for the great Info. Looks like I might need heaver wire. Right now have 18 gauge and it is running 96 degrees. So one more project, re wire it. I have them out running right now and so far no blown fuses. What do you think would 14 or 12 gauge wire be the best. Plus the wires coming out of the lights is really small like 18 or smaller. Will that make a difference. Plus I sodered all the connections. But then again I love projects...Thanks again..johnny b.

Looks great Johnny! I did pretty much the same thing on a bracket I made for Christine's canoe. Same lights, and same wiring mistake; I used 18-gauge and a small switch and I melted the whole thing in an hour and a half. I switched it all to 12-gauge wire, a bigger switch with the correct amp-rating (Bulz helped with that one) and I used stranded wire since it's much easier to work with. I did run a separate switch for each side, since I fish alone and can only look at one side of the boat at a time. I put the switches down lower in the boat and used switches with a longer, lighted-toggle so I could switch back and forth with my foot. And it was sooooo quiet!

not sure but you may want to move the farthest back light up front. they will be bright on the ground but light dosent penetrate water very well at all. will be ok in real clear water but the murkier the worse it gets. just my opinion. only time on the water will tell.

Thanks guys,
That my plan to move the back light up front and get some 12 gauge stranded wire and heaver switch. That will be my project for today, The job i had for today just got cancelled until Monday. My grand son is coming in tomorrow so need it for the weekend....thanks again...johnny b.

The dead-end wires on individual fixtures (typically 18 or 16 gauge) only need to carry the current for the one light so whatever size they are now will be fine, unless it's one of those real cheapos that is drastically underengineered, built in a sweatshop, and gets recalled in a few months due to a fire or burned customer. You'll be fine. Those lights don't draw much.

My guess for the size ofthefeed wires would be 12 gauge, but without the current or power draw numbers for each light, it's just a guess. Definitely go with the stranded. It's not only easier toinstall, but holds up to vibrations and abuse much better than solid wire.