bigcountry

Man, that looks very professional. I have trouble with the tang area and end up not messing with it.

Very nice. Should be well bedded.

bigcountry

Only question I have is why did you put masking tape in the recoil lug area? I usually let the epoxy fill that area.

Colorado Cajun

I had covered the front, sides, and bottom of the recoil lug with two layers of tape to give me a little room as suggested in the instructions and by others. The little extra room in front and to the sides is to aid in pulling the barrel off the stock to clean it later on. When I pulled it out this morning, the outer layer of tape stayed stuck in the epoxy. It's in there good and doesn't want to pull out. I'm going to leave it in there instead of messing with my nice clean pocket.

Pawildman

.... The recoil lug should have stock contact at the rear of the lug only, and that's why the recess needs to be relieved on the front, bottom and sides. If you've got some tape stuck in there, you definitely need to dig it out or you've defeated your goal of clearancing the lug. A Dremel tool with the small router bit will work fine, and it doesn't matter if you add a little more clearance to the recess in those areas at all by doing that. Just stay away from the glassed area on the rear of the recess... but do take the tape out...

Big Uncle

The tape does need to come out of the recoil lug recess, but do not use a dremel tool. There is too much risk that you will hurt the important section of the bedding to go shoving a dremel tool down there. It should pop out if you put a slim and sharp object behind one edge of the tape to get it started.

Colorado Cajun

I got the tape out without having to use any tools, other then a needle and a very small screwdrive. I put a LITTLE water in the pocket and let it sit for 5 minutes. That made a huge difference. I think it softened up the layer of release agent that was holding it. Got it all out! Thanks again to all of you that followed this thread and helped me.

Pawildman

....I don't know what kind of a Dremel tool you are refering to, but the one I use is quite capable of doing small, tedious work in tight areas, provided the handler uses a modicum of common sense. I also previously cautioned CC about keeping away from the solid contact area at the back of the lug.... was there some other area of the lug recess you were/are concerned with?

.... I'm glad the tape came out for him the way it did, but I will solidly stand by my statement that proper use of the proper Dremel tools/techniques is perfectly acceptable with proper instruction, and even a little extra clearance in the areas that were hogged out and taped to provide clearance in the first place won't hurt a thing. "Shoving a Dremel tool down there"...really?

Big Uncle

"I guess that's what makes differing opinions.."

Pawildman

.....Yessir... I agree........

bigcountry

Hey Brian, just curious if you elevated the tip of the forearm to make sure it was freefloating or are you going to remove material at the forearm? I hear some guys taking a small piece of cardboard and putting in front of the recoil lug. I wouldn't.