Restoring a Rusty Remington
#1
Restoring a Rusty Remington
How is that for alliteration?
I have way too many shotguns and definitely wasn't looking for another one, but what can I say?
My Father in law picked this project up for me at a yard sale for $40.
It is a Remington model 58 12 gauge semi-auto, made in 1956, the walnut looks pretty good but the metal has pink rust spots.
anyway, here is what it looked like when he brought it to me:
I have way too many shotguns and definitely wasn't looking for another one, but what can I say?
My Father in law picked this project up for me at a yard sale for $40.
It is a Remington model 58 12 gauge semi-auto, made in 1956, the walnut looks pretty good but the metal has pink rust spots.
anyway, here is what it looked like when he brought it to me:
#2
Dis-assembly, the trigger group is removed just like any other Remington 870/1100, just push out the two pins.
The stock had two holes, one for the bolt and the other for???
In this picture you can see the action bar where it attaches to the piston (which is mounted in the front portion of the magazine, which is why the magazine only holds two rounds.
The trigger housing is aluminum and the finish looks horrible, since I have not tried anodizing yet and a polished housing would look good on this gun, I decided to strip and polish it
OK now what? I guess I need to take this mess of parts and make a working trigger mechanism out of them
The stock had two holes, one for the bolt and the other for???
In this picture you can see the action bar where it attaches to the piston (which is mounted in the front portion of the magazine, which is why the magazine only holds two rounds.
The trigger housing is aluminum and the finish looks horrible, since I have not tried anodizing yet and a polished housing would look good on this gun, I decided to strip and polish it
OK now what? I guess I need to take this mess of parts and make a working trigger mechanism out of them
#4
The next step was to remove the rust and old bluing using naval jelly
I then remove the remaining bluing along with the acid "etching" with the wire wheel on my grinder
Then we start removing the pits, starting with 120 grit emory cloth, then moving to 220 grit sand paper
I kept moving up on the grit until I got to 2000 grit (wet/dry) sand paper, the metal is almost ready for bluing
I then went to work on the barrel, there was a large rust pit on the magazine ring, I used a file to get it smooth again
then I sanded the barrel to 600 grit and used the buffer to make it shine, the black stuff on the metal is buffing compound
I then remove the remaining bluing along with the acid "etching" with the wire wheel on my grinder
Then we start removing the pits, starting with 120 grit emory cloth, then moving to 220 grit sand paper
I kept moving up on the grit until I got to 2000 grit (wet/dry) sand paper, the metal is almost ready for bluing
I then went to work on the barrel, there was a large rust pit on the magazine ring, I used a file to get it smooth again
then I sanded the barrel to 600 grit and used the buffer to make it shine, the black stuff on the metal is buffing compound
#5
When I blue a gun, I do more than one, more economical that way
Done! I also jeweled the bolt and nitre blued the pins and charging handle
Before & After
you can see the whole story here: http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/201...-model_10.html
Done! I also jeweled the bolt and nitre blued the pins and charging handle
Before & After
you can see the whole story here: http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/201...-model_10.html