Mounting a Scope
03-12-2005, 04:58 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 43
Mounting a Scope
Hello all. I want to appologize in advance for a very likely repost; however, I'm sort of short on time to look through all of these threads at the moment. I just recently bought a Browning A-Bolt II Medallion .30-06. I also just recently bought a Weaver Grand Slam 3-10x40 scope along with Leupold PRW rings and bases. I was curious as to how difficult it is to mount the scope? I have no experience, but is it a pretty easy thing to do? Or should I take it in to a local gun shop to have someone do it? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
-Aaron
-Aaron
03-12-2005, 08:25 PM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location:
Posts: 47
RE: Mounting a Scope
hello aaron, it's easy to mount a scope. i recently mounted a bushnell 3x9x40mm 3200 on my browning abolt stainless stalker .270. use some blue lock-tite on the screws attaching the bases to the barrel. .do not overtighten the screws. you don't want to break off a screw. good luck jaime
03-13-2005, 11:46 AM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,918
RE: Mounting a Scope
Aaron,Like mentioned mounting a scope isn't hard. If you're not sure of yourself I'm sure you know someone you can watch install it for you.The Blue Loc-tite is a must.Any auto parts store sells it. It's Loc-Tite 242.Intructions come with the base and rings.Take your time,following the instructions and you shouldn't have a problem.Once you mount one or two you'll see how easy it really is.Good luck.
Ruger Redhawk
Ruger Redhawk
03-13-2005, 12:08 PM
#4
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: fort mcmurray alberta canada
Posts: 5,667
RE: Mounting a Scope
If you are using the tool provided with the leupold bases and rings you would have a hard time breaking a screw.I tighten until the supplied wrench begins to flex and after mounting more than a dozen scopes,I have never broken a screw.
03-13-2005, 05:18 PM
#5
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,052
RE: Mounting a Scope
aaron its easy... after you've done several. I have mounted literally thousands its part of my job. For a beginner you have a "complex system" with the PRWs (fixed QRWs for lack of a better description).
First thing is UNLOAD the gun!!! I even go so far as to remove the bolt, its that much safer and also lightens the gun which makes it easier while holding your gun for eye relief!!!
The bases are straight forward and easy, just remember with your long action that you will want to make sure that the cross slot (the groove) in the bases are aiming toward the center of the action. That being the front bases' slot is pointing rearward and the rear bases' slot is pointing frontward. That assures the scope of the most adjustment for proper eye relief. A simple drop of loctite on each screw will be fine, just be sure to use a cleaner/solvent in the tap holes first to make sure they are clean (if you have none then rubbing alcohol will be ok). This is why I recommend you take ALL components of a base/ring down and clean them with solvent so the loctite can later work its magic.
With the PRW rings you have a couple of screws and spring in the ringbase that you must make sure are put in the same way you take them apart. If you take your time and go slowly you should be able to loosen them enough to put on the bases without dis-assembly of the ring itself. BUT like I said, I personally would recommend you tearing them down, cleaning them with solvent and the using loctite on ALL the screws upon reassembly. The PRW is for permanent mounting, not quick disconnect so why not make it permanent?
Once you have the secured rings on the bases then remove the tops of the rings, place the scope on the ringbases and then put the ring tops back over the scope. Don't tighten them up yet, just snug each one (I believe you have 2 screws on each side of a ring with PRWs) enough to hold the scope on so it wont fall off, but still light enough you can move the scope with light pressure and not scratch the scopes finish.
(For this part I recommend an assitant until you get familiar with the process but its certainly not necessary, just take your time and go patiently.) Now to properly set your eye relief you need to turn the scope down too its lowest power and put the scope as far forward as it will go (that being typically the power selector ring end of the scope will hit the rear ring). Close your eyes and "mount the gun" or act as if you were going to take a shot. Keeping your eyes closed, place the gun too you in a position that feels comfortable and natural. Now open your eyes. Move the scope back until you can see clearly and a full view is present in the scope. This make take several adjustments but it will come soon enough and is easier with someone moving the scope for you as I alluded too earlier. Now your eye relief is set too you and you are ready to tighten the rings a turn or two and then square the crosshairs. Tighten the ring screws a turn or two just enough to allow you to still turn the scope. Its easier if you are looking on a blank, well lit wall or out of a window into daylight so you get enough contrast to clearly see your crosshairs. Most dealers/gunsmiths have a tool that has several lines to judge against for this but you certainly dont have to have such a tool, its just a convience. Just make sure you aren't canting (tilting) the rifle and line up the vertical crosshair with other straight lines on your rifle like the center of the rings/bases (if visible) or the back of the bolt, the tang area or even the grain of the stock if present.
Slowly take the gun back down (careful not to move the scope) and begin to tighten the ring screws in a X pattern as you have 2 on each side. Tighten one, go too the otherside and oposite the one you just tightened. Keep the distance between the bottom of the ring and the top half consistent. You dont want to tighten up one side to completely touch while the otherside has 1/8" gap. You actually dont want EITHER of the sides of a ring to touch its bottom half. The spring tension of the ring is what holds your scope in place. If you wrench everyting down and they are touching you wont be holding the scope tube which will result in a scope that wont hold zero and because of the uneven pressure the rings will dig into the scopes finish (plus over-tightening some rings will result in crushing or bulging the scopes tube). Anyway, once finished with that I would recommend you remove only 1 screw at a time and loctite it, screw it back down and then remove another one in the same X pattern that you originally tightened them with. The only thing you have to watch is to make sure you dont twist the scopes verticle alingment while originally tightening the rings, sometimes the rings will pull one side of the scope and torque your verticle set to become off. Just watch it and make adjustments as necessary. As far as proper torque, with Leupold's Torx setup you can put so much pressure on the screw that you can either strip it or break the screws' head off (which is more common with PRWs). The proper torque is kinda "learned" I can only discribe it as putting enough pressure on it that I am in no danger of breaking anything and the pressure on the small torx wrench doesn't become great enough to hurt my fingers. Think "snug" as opposed to tight. The loctite will assure you everything stays as it should be.
After that you are set my friend and trust me I might have made it sound MUCH harder than it actually is, but I wanted to cover all the bases for you and you will get the hang of it for another time. All told it will probably take less than 10-15 minutes to do. After doing it for years I can have a rifle rigged up and ready typically in 5 minutes, 10 MAX if the customer really distracts me.
Good luck,
RA
First thing is UNLOAD the gun!!! I even go so far as to remove the bolt, its that much safer and also lightens the gun which makes it easier while holding your gun for eye relief!!!
The bases are straight forward and easy, just remember with your long action that you will want to make sure that the cross slot (the groove) in the bases are aiming toward the center of the action. That being the front bases' slot is pointing rearward and the rear bases' slot is pointing frontward. That assures the scope of the most adjustment for proper eye relief. A simple drop of loctite on each screw will be fine, just be sure to use a cleaner/solvent in the tap holes first to make sure they are clean (if you have none then rubbing alcohol will be ok). This is why I recommend you take ALL components of a base/ring down and clean them with solvent so the loctite can later work its magic.
With the PRW rings you have a couple of screws and spring in the ringbase that you must make sure are put in the same way you take them apart. If you take your time and go slowly you should be able to loosen them enough to put on the bases without dis-assembly of the ring itself. BUT like I said, I personally would recommend you tearing them down, cleaning them with solvent and the using loctite on ALL the screws upon reassembly. The PRW is for permanent mounting, not quick disconnect so why not make it permanent?
Once you have the secured rings on the bases then remove the tops of the rings, place the scope on the ringbases and then put the ring tops back over the scope. Don't tighten them up yet, just snug each one (I believe you have 2 screws on each side of a ring with PRWs) enough to hold the scope on so it wont fall off, but still light enough you can move the scope with light pressure and not scratch the scopes finish.
(For this part I recommend an assitant until you get familiar with the process but its certainly not necessary, just take your time and go patiently.) Now to properly set your eye relief you need to turn the scope down too its lowest power and put the scope as far forward as it will go (that being typically the power selector ring end of the scope will hit the rear ring). Close your eyes and "mount the gun" or act as if you were going to take a shot. Keeping your eyes closed, place the gun too you in a position that feels comfortable and natural. Now open your eyes. Move the scope back until you can see clearly and a full view is present in the scope. This make take several adjustments but it will come soon enough and is easier with someone moving the scope for you as I alluded too earlier. Now your eye relief is set too you and you are ready to tighten the rings a turn or two and then square the crosshairs. Tighten the ring screws a turn or two just enough to allow you to still turn the scope. Its easier if you are looking on a blank, well lit wall or out of a window into daylight so you get enough contrast to clearly see your crosshairs. Most dealers/gunsmiths have a tool that has several lines to judge against for this but you certainly dont have to have such a tool, its just a convience. Just make sure you aren't canting (tilting) the rifle and line up the vertical crosshair with other straight lines on your rifle like the center of the rings/bases (if visible) or the back of the bolt, the tang area or even the grain of the stock if present.
Slowly take the gun back down (careful not to move the scope) and begin to tighten the ring screws in a X pattern as you have 2 on each side. Tighten one, go too the otherside and oposite the one you just tightened. Keep the distance between the bottom of the ring and the top half consistent. You dont want to tighten up one side to completely touch while the otherside has 1/8" gap. You actually dont want EITHER of the sides of a ring to touch its bottom half. The spring tension of the ring is what holds your scope in place. If you wrench everyting down and they are touching you wont be holding the scope tube which will result in a scope that wont hold zero and because of the uneven pressure the rings will dig into the scopes finish (plus over-tightening some rings will result in crushing or bulging the scopes tube). Anyway, once finished with that I would recommend you remove only 1 screw at a time and loctite it, screw it back down and then remove another one in the same X pattern that you originally tightened them with. The only thing you have to watch is to make sure you dont twist the scopes verticle alingment while originally tightening the rings, sometimes the rings will pull one side of the scope and torque your verticle set to become off. Just watch it and make adjustments as necessary. As far as proper torque, with Leupold's Torx setup you can put so much pressure on the screw that you can either strip it or break the screws' head off (which is more common with PRWs). The proper torque is kinda "learned" I can only discribe it as putting enough pressure on it that I am in no danger of breaking anything and the pressure on the small torx wrench doesn't become great enough to hurt my fingers. Think "snug" as opposed to tight. The loctite will assure you everything stays as it should be.
After that you are set my friend and trust me I might have made it sound MUCH harder than it actually is, but I wanted to cover all the bases for you and you will get the hang of it for another time. All told it will probably take less than 10-15 minutes to do. After doing it for years I can have a rifle rigged up and ready typically in 5 minutes, 10 MAX if the customer really distracts me.
Good luck,
RA
03-14-2005, 06:35 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 43
RE: Mounting a Scope
Thanks for the advice guys! I mounted it and wasn't hard at all (thanks to your instructions). I plan to take it out next weekend to bore sight it and then finish sighting it in. For this process, I was planning on using Chuck Hawks directions from his webpage. However, if anyone else know another method, or has their own advice, I would appreciate it. Thanks again!
-Aaron
-Aaron
03-14-2005, 08:07 AM
#8
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 6,471
RE: Mounting a Scope
I learned the hard way about Rugers propensity to ding scope tubes and lap the rings whenever I buy them.. There is also always a burr or 2 on the chamfer that bites a tube as well. They are a little rough just need some polishing
03-14-2005, 12:26 PM
#9
Fork Horn
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 287
RE: Mounting a Scope
Hi RA. Sounds like you've done a lot of scope work so maybe you can help me. How do "plumb" the crosshairs? If the scope is turned in the rings and I adjust for elevation it also changes windage. Is there a point on a rifle that you can use as a reference point? The last few I've put on, I center the crosshairs in the scope and lock the gun in the vise. I use a laser bore site at 25 yds. Then I use the coarse adjustment to get on the dot left to right. I bring the crosshairs down to the dot. Then I turn the scope in the rings until the crosshair is at it's highest point. I think that must be straight up and down. Appreciate any input.
03-14-2005, 01:22 PM
#10
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 6,471
RE: Mounting a Scope
(
RA wouldn't you turn the scope to its highest power and move it as far forward as possible to get a complete sight picture?
For this part I recommend an assitant until you get familiar with the process but its certainly not necessary, just take your time and go patiently.) Now to properly set your eye relief you need to turn the scope down too its lowest power and put the scope as far forward as it will go (that being typically the power selector ring end of the scope will hit the rear ring). Close your eyes and "mount the gun" or act as if you were going to take a shot
