aaron its easy... after you've done several. I have mounted literally thousands its part of my job. For a beginner you have a "complex system" with the PRWs (fixed QRWs for lack of a better description).

First thing is UNLOAD the gun!!! I even go so far as to remove the bolt, its that much safer and also lightens the gun which makes it easier while holding your gun for eye relief!!!

The bases are straight forward and easy, just remember with your long action that you will want to make sure that the cross slot (the groove) in the bases are aiming toward the center of the action. That being the front bases' slot is pointing rearward and the rear bases' slot is pointing frontward. That assures the scope of the most adjustment for proper eye relief. A simple drop of loctite on each screw will be fine, just be sure to use a cleaner/solvent in the tap holes first to make sure they are clean (if you have none then rubbing alcohol will be ok). This is why I recommend you take ALL components of a base/ring down and clean them with solvent so the loctite can later work its magic.

With the PRW rings you have a couple of screws and spring in the ringbase that you must make sure are put in the same way you take them apart. If you take your time and go slowly you should be able to loosen them enough to put on the bases without dis-assembly of the ring itself. BUT like I said, I personally would recommend you tearing them down, cleaning them with solvent and the using loctite on ALL the screws upon reassembly. The PRW is for permanent mounting, not quick disconnect so why not make it permanent?

Once you have the secured rings on the bases then remove the tops of the rings, place the scope on the ringbases and then put the ring tops back over the scope. Don't tighten them up yet, just snug each one (I believe you have 2 screws on each side of a ring with PRWs) enough to hold the scope on so it wont fall off, but still light enough you can move the scope with light pressure and not scratch the scopes finish.

(For this part I recommend an assitant until you get familiar with the process but its certainly not necessary, just take your time and go patiently.) Now to properly set your eye relief you need to turn the scope down too its lowest power and put the scope as far forward as it will go (that being typically the power selector ring end of the scope will hit the rear ring). Close your eyes and "mount the gun" or act as if you were going to take a shot. Keeping your eyes closed, place the gun too you in a position that feels comfortable and natural. Now open your eyes. Move the scope back until you can see clearly and a full view is present in the scope. This make take several adjustments but it will come soon enough and is easier with someone moving the scope for you as I alluded too earlier. Now your eye relief is set too you and you are ready to tighten the rings a turn or two and then square the crosshairs. Tighten the ring screws a turn or two just enough to allow you to still turn the scope. Its easier if you are looking on a blank, well lit wall or out of a window into daylight so you get enough contrast to clearly see your crosshairs. Most dealers/gunsmiths have a tool that has several lines to judge against for this but you certainly dont have to have such a tool, its just a convience. Just make sure you aren't canting (tilting) the rifle and line up the vertical crosshair with other straight lines on your rifle like the center of the rings/bases (if visible) or the back of the bolt, the tang area or even the grain of the stock if present.

Slowly take the gun back down (careful not to move the scope) and begin to tighten the ring screws in a X pattern as you have 2 on each side. Tighten one, go too the otherside and oposite the one you just tightened. Keep the distance between the bottom of the ring and the top half consistent. You dont want to tighten up one side to completely touch while the otherside has 1/8" gap. You actually dont want EITHER of the sides of a ring to touch its bottom half. The spring tension of the ring is what holds your scope in place. If you wrench everyting down and they are touching you wont be holding the scope tube which will result in a scope that wont hold zero and because of the uneven pressure the rings will dig into the scopes finish (plus over-tightening some rings will result in crushing or bulging the scopes tube). Anyway, once finished with that I would recommend you remove only 1 screw at a time and loctite it, screw it back down and then remove another one in the same X pattern that you originally tightened them with. The only thing you have to watch is to make sure you dont twist the scopes verticle alingment while originally tightening the rings, sometimes the rings will pull one side of the scope and torque your verticle set to become off. Just watch it and make adjustments as necessary. As far as proper torque, with Leupold's Torx setup you can put so much pressure on the screw that you can either strip it or break the screws' head off (which is more common with PRWs). The proper torque is kinda "learned" I can only discribe it as putting enough pressure on it that I am in no danger of breaking anything and the pressure on the small torx wrench doesn't become great enough to hurt my fingers. Think "snug" as opposed to tight. The loctite will assure you everything stays as it should be.

After that you are set my friend and trust me I might have made it sound MUCH harder than it actually is, but I wanted to cover all the bases for you and you will get the hang of it for another time. All told it will probably take less than 10-15 minutes to do. After doing it for years I can have a rifle rigged up and ready typically in 5 minutes, 10 MAX if the customer really distracts me.

Good luck,
RA