doubleA,
I' m sitting here laughing my a$$ off. That' s very funny

How about another post! I' d like another good laugh. I' m a Jr High school teacher, and I could use some more humor!

Is that tape and glove a factory option? [8D]

Great photo double A!! It does look funny, but it works.

Use a ligher and cheaper cartridge (that is accurate for your gun) for sighting in and practice - both to reduce expense and recoil. Then, when you' re ready for hunting, just sight in your chosen ammo and you should be good to go. The practice of holding the gun and getting an accurate shot is the same regardless of the type of bullet or cost of the ammo.

After bore sighting, I' ve always had to start at 25 yds. Easier to get on paper, easier to zero, and it will be pretty darn close at 100. If you have a solid vise or rest, you can pretty much zero at 25 yds on the second shot: shoot first shot; leave gun in place; adjust scope so cross hairs are on actual impact point. Next shot, sighted at bullseye, should be very close. If you don' t have a vise, it will take you a couple of groups, but it' s much easier at 25 and should only take you a few groups. Then, I believe you' ll find it' s pretty close at 100 and should only take you a couple more groups to get it exactly as you want it.

By the way, this fall I had to remount my scope and used the " real" bore sight method (we don' t need no steenkeng lazer sighers) - put a small target on a wall about 40 feet away, squinted down the bore and then carefully adjusted the scope to match (I have a cheap $40 shooting/cleaning vise -you can make them out of wood too). When I got to the range, I was within a couple of inches at 25 yards right off the bat. Last year I did it without the vise and was still well on the paper at 25 yards. Both times it took me about 9 shots total to have it zero' d at 100.

As far as group size, remember that a little wind can make a ' significant' difference at 100 yds, especially if it' s a little flukey. I' m not talking about hunting significant, but target significant. If you' re getting 2 inch groups with a slight, but inconsistent breeze, you might find it' s a touch tighter on a still day, at least in my experience. Could make the difference between being satisfied with a particular cartridge vs. wondering why it' s inaccurate.

Also, you could find a different factory load is better (or worse). Last year I tried about 6 different types of factory loads of various weights and brands in my 30' 06, trying to stick first and foremost with those that are commonly available. There definitely was a difference. Best (using a vise, but with not great technique) was about 1- 1.25" at 100 yds, worst pushed 3 inches. For some reason, plain old Remington 180 gr PSP corelokt shot as good or better than anything, including plain and premium, from 150 - 180. But your 2 inches, as you say, is nothing to sweat a lot about, and without perfect stillness or a solid vise and perfect technique, it is a pretty good factory ammo group, imho.

My final recommendation is to use a segment of foam water pipe insulation for target range padding - the dark grey tubular stuff they sell in hardware stores to insulate domestic 3/4 inch water pipes . It is split lengthwise and you can easily slip it over the end of the butt of your rifle. It really eliminates recoil pain and has cured me of flinch. An added benefit is if you' re shooting in warm weather, but will be hunting in cold (with heavy coat), the front/back adjustment of the scope for eye relief will be better with the extra padding on the gun.

-zeke

I bought a Sims limb-saver slip-on pad tonight. I put it on right over the stock pad. It is a bit longer, but I think I like it better that way. I am going to try and shoot again tomorrow and see how I do. Hopefully it will be enough to take care of me. Now I will just need a trigger job and I will be set.

Will try and put a pic of it up when the wife gets home with the digicam.

PS: My box stand has that tubular foam you are talking out on all the lower edges of my shooting windows. It should help with recoil and with protecting my gun finish.

I just bought a 25-06 and went out to shoot it yesterday. I was shooting 117 grain hornady SSTs. I ran 30 rounds through it and can' t even tell I was shooting today. It is a handi rifle with an ultra barrel synthetic stock with standard recoil pad. If I tried that with my 30-06 with white line 1 inch recoil pad shooting 165 grain Hornadys, I would be bruised today. Amazing what a difference 37 grains makes. I was wondering if my 30-06 with 125s would be the same. Anyone ever compare 25-06 with 120s or 117s to 30-06 with 125s? Just wondering if recoil is similar?

Part of it is that you are shooting light magnums. Man, those things are HOT! I know you are shooting 150s but hornady advertises 180 grain at 3000fps. That is very hot for 30-06...

Past, kick killer, kick eaze, limb saver...they all make good pads, either shoulder pads or butt-stock mounted pads.

Running 40rnds through it wasn' t really wise since you' re unfamiliar with high powers, especially since it hurt so badly, you' re probably going to flinch now when you go back out, causing really bad accuracy.

Since it beat you that badly, you might also look into recoil reducers, either have a gunsmith add lead to your stock in the proper places and amounts, or add a spring-mass or mercury recoil reducer, there' s nothing fun about shooting a rifle that beats the hell out of you.

Also remember to keep the rifle snug up to your body and keep your shoulder taut/firm, not totally relaxed or totally tense, just ready. Also, check out where you' re shouldering at, it kind of sounds like you might be too far away from yourself, your buttstock should fit right in the pocket b/w the shoulder head and pectoral head, too far out makes it hit more bone than muscle and joint.

What I think is curious, why do you shoot better at 200yrds than at 100yrds? You got 2" groups at 100yrds= 2MOA, when 3.5" groups at 200yrds is 1.75MOA, sure it' s a small improvement, but there' s no reason that 1.75MOA at 200yrds should come out of the same rifle you shot 2MOA at 100yrds with, your 100yrds should be equally good or better than your 200yrds, might look into that further, maybe the 3.5" groups were luck, or maybe you' ve got some other strange problem?

You are usually more susceptible to felt recoil when shooting from a bench. You bought a 30.06 for its abilities, so you don' t want to download the cartridge. When shooting many rounds from a bench with higher caliber rifles, I find that just slipping a small towel that has been folded several times in between the buttstock and my shoulder will suffice. In fact, it is quite comfortable. In an actual hunting situation, you will probably be wearing heavier clothing which will help. Have you fired the rifle offhand yet? Perceived recoil is lessened in offhand shooting. If you opt to have a recoil pad installed, make sure your gunsmith shortens the stock, or you will find it will be too long. As you shoot more and more, you will ultimately cease to think of a 30.06 as a heavy recoiling rifle. Good luck with your endeavor---the old ' 06 is as good as they come.

Clint

I own a Remington 742 Semi-Auto .30-06 and I never had a problem with recoil, I shot 165 grain bullet and they didn' t hurt at all. I recently gave that gun to my younger brother and bought myself a Ruger M77 MKII 7MM Rem. Mag. and after 46 rounds at the range I had a swollen shoulder, made me want to go back to the .30-06!