Use a ligher and cheaper cartridge (that is accurate for your gun) for sighting in and practice - both to reduce expense and recoil. Then, when you' re ready for hunting, just sight in your chosen ammo and you should be good to go. The practice of holding the gun and getting an accurate shot is the same regardless of the type of bullet or cost of the ammo.

After bore sighting, I' ve always had to start at 25 yds. Easier to get on paper, easier to zero, and it will be pretty darn close at 100. If you have a solid vise or rest, you can pretty much zero at 25 yds on the second shot: shoot first shot; leave gun in place; adjust scope so cross hairs are on actual impact point. Next shot, sighted at bullseye, should be very close. If you don' t have a vise, it will take you a couple of groups, but it' s much easier at 25 and should only take you a few groups. Then, I believe you' ll find it' s pretty close at 100 and should only take you a couple more groups to get it exactly as you want it.

By the way, this fall I had to remount my scope and used the " real" bore sight method (we don' t need no steenkeng lazer sighers) - put a small target on a wall about 40 feet away, squinted down the bore and then carefully adjusted the scope to match (I have a cheap $40 shooting/cleaning vise -you can make them out of wood too). When I got to the range, I was within a couple of inches at 25 yards right off the bat. Last year I did it without the vise and was still well on the paper at 25 yards. Both times it took me about 9 shots total to have it zero' d at 100.

As far as group size, remember that a little wind can make a ' significant' difference at 100 yds, especially if it' s a little flukey. I' m not talking about hunting significant, but target significant. If you' re getting 2 inch groups with a slight, but inconsistent breeze, you might find it' s a touch tighter on a still day, at least in my experience. Could make the difference between being satisfied with a particular cartridge vs. wondering why it' s inaccurate.

Also, you could find a different factory load is better (or worse). Last year I tried about 6 different types of factory loads of various weights and brands in my 30' 06, trying to stick first and foremost with those that are commonly available. There definitely was a difference. Best (using a vise, but with not great technique) was about 1- 1.25" at 100 yds, worst pushed 3 inches. For some reason, plain old Remington 180 gr PSP corelokt shot as good or better than anything, including plain and premium, from 150 - 180. But your 2 inches, as you say, is nothing to sweat a lot about, and without perfect stillness or a solid vise and perfect technique, it is a pretty good factory ammo group, imho.

My final recommendation is to use a segment of foam water pipe insulation for target range padding - the dark grey tubular stuff they sell in hardware stores to insulate domestic 3/4 inch water pipes . It is split lengthwise and you can easily slip it over the end of the butt of your rifle. It really eliminates recoil pain and has cured me of flinch. An added benefit is if you' re shooting in warm weather, but will be hunting in cold (with heavy coat), the front/back adjustment of the scope for eye relief will be better with the extra padding on the gun.

-zeke