Best all around optics setup
#11
Im going to get a rem 700 in 3006 or a 308 ar for hunting down the road prob the 700 since I got the ar15 now. I loved the bdc scope on my triumph muzzleloader what do you guys think bout bdc scopes for rifles. If I buy a 223 bdc scope I wont be able to use it on the remington ofcourse thats another reason to buy a new scope then. So what would you do bdc or no
#12
For someone that seems to move around a lot like yourself, a BDC reticle would be even less advisable, in my opinion.
That said, non-load-calibrated BDC reticles like Mil-Dot or MOAR reticles are fantastic investments. The marks will correlate to different ranges just as much as a BDC reticle, won't have as much "junk" in your FOV, and will have more gradation to adapt windage and elevation hold over into the same solution. Make up a range card for different temps and altitude density and you'll be FAR better off with a Mil-Dot or MOAR type graduated reticle than you will with a BDC style reticle.
#13
Here is the BDC reticle I use, but I don't shoot out to 1,000 yards;
http://www.burrisoptics.com/pdf/BALLPLEX.pdf
Burris includes a "card" for different calibers and different bullet weights (gives a close approximation for hold overs) - I tape the card on the inside cover of the corresponding ammo box.
I use their Signature Select 4X-16X 44MM BDC illuminated reticle scopes on all my rifles (always the same sight picture no matter what gun I have in my hands).
Ultimately, I still need to verify the point of impact (POI) using "that" gun with "that" bullet holding on each line below the cross hair.
One exception: I use a 6X-24X 44MM with a Mil-Dot reticle on my .204 varmint gun.
Bottom line - works for me !
http://www.burrisoptics.com/pdf/BALLPLEX.pdf
Burris includes a "card" for different calibers and different bullet weights (gives a close approximation for hold overs) - I tape the card on the inside cover of the corresponding ammo box.
I use their Signature Select 4X-16X 44MM BDC illuminated reticle scopes on all my rifles (always the same sight picture no matter what gun I have in my hands).
Ultimately, I still need to verify the point of impact (POI) using "that" gun with "that" bullet holding on each line below the cross hair.
One exception: I use a 6X-24X 44MM with a Mil-Dot reticle on my .204 varmint gun.
Bottom line - works for me !
Last edited by Sheridan; 07-27-2014 at 05:34 PM.
#14
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,056
Likes: 0
From: WY
NM48 laid it all out pretty well. I'm not a fan of BDC reticles, either - and for pretty much the same reasons.
I tried - and still have - a couple of Burris FFIIs with the "Ballistic Plex" reticle (one of them a "Ballistic Mil-Dot", but the values for each subtension were so far off that I punched my chrono'ed data through LoadBase 3.0 Mobile and printed a new chart for each. And because they're dependent upon the environmentals being identical to those in effect the day I chrono'ed the load, any changes bring shifts in impact. They're okay, but prairie dogs and coyotes (rifles are a .223 and a .22-250) don't tend to line themselves up on the ranges indicated on my updated reticle charts anyway, so there's always some hold over or under involved. So, I generally don't bother. At most of the ranges I'm shooting at, holding just below a coyote's back or a prairie dog's head is almost always going to put them down.
I tried - and still have - a couple of Burris FFIIs with the "Ballistic Plex" reticle (one of them a "Ballistic Mil-Dot", but the values for each subtension were so far off that I punched my chrono'ed data through LoadBase 3.0 Mobile and printed a new chart for each. And because they're dependent upon the environmentals being identical to those in effect the day I chrono'ed the load, any changes bring shifts in impact. They're okay, but prairie dogs and coyotes (rifles are a .223 and a .22-250) don't tend to line themselves up on the ranges indicated on my updated reticle charts anyway, so there's always some hold over or under involved. So, I generally don't bother. At most of the ranges I'm shooting at, holding just below a coyote's back or a prairie dog's head is almost always going to put them down.
#15
I do agree u have to shoot the right load and bullet. When I bought my tv triumph I had been planning on a tc omega with the nikon omega bdc scope. It was setup with a 250 grain shockwave with 150 grains of 777 out the omega. When I decided on the triumph I decided no bdc. I called nikon about a diff scope. They told me the omega and the triumph used basically the same barrel and in test the triumph was dead on with the bdc marks. A local gunshop/baitshop owner said it would never be dead on at 250 a waste of money. I think he was pissef I didnt buy it from him. He wsnted 625 for the muzzy 425for the scope. I got it online from a shop in Michigan for 750 scope mounted to my door. That year I shot my first deer ranged at 254 yards with a dead on heart shot having never fired pass 150 yards. But I was slave to the 250 grain shockwave and 150 grains of powder which me and my muzzleloader loved but I want options with my rifle



