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Im going to get a rem 700 in 3006 or a 308 ar for hunting down the road prob the 700 since I got the ar15 now. I loved the bdc scope on my triumph muzzleloader what do you guys think bout bdc scopes for rifles. If I buy a 223 bdc scope I wont be able to use it on the remington ofcourse thats another reason to buy a new scope then. So what would you do bdc or no
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Originally Posted by bigtim6656
(Post 4150616)
What do you guys think bout bdc scopes for rifles... So what would you do bdc or no
For someone that seems to move around a lot like yourself, a BDC reticle would be even less advisable, in my opinion. That said, non-load-calibrated BDC reticles like Mil-Dot or MOAR reticles are fantastic investments. The marks will correlate to different ranges just as much as a BDC reticle, won't have as much "junk" in your FOV, and will have more gradation to adapt windage and elevation hold over into the same solution. Make up a range card for different temps and altitude density and you'll be FAR better off with a Mil-Dot or MOAR type graduated reticle than you will with a BDC style reticle. |
Here is the BDC reticle I use, but I don't shoot out to 1,000 yards;
http://www.burrisoptics.com/pdf/BALLPLEX.pdf Burris includes a "card" for different calibers and different bullet weights (gives a close approximation for hold overs) - I tape the card on the inside cover of the corresponding ammo box. I use their Signature Select 4X-16X 44MM BDC illuminated reticle scopes on all my rifles (always the same sight picture no matter what gun I have in my hands). Ultimately, I still need to verify the point of impact (POI) using "that" gun with "that" bullet holding on each line below the cross hair. One exception: I use a 6X-24X 44MM with a Mil-Dot reticle on my .204 varmint gun. Bottom line - works for me ! |
NM48 laid it all out pretty well. I'm not a fan of BDC reticles, either - and for pretty much the same reasons.
I tried - and still have - a couple of Burris FFIIs with the "Ballistic Plex" reticle (one of them a "Ballistic Mil-Dot", but the values for each subtension were so far off that I punched my chrono'ed data through LoadBase 3.0 Mobile and printed a new chart for each. And because they're dependent upon the environmentals being identical to those in effect the day I chrono'ed the load, any changes bring shifts in impact. They're okay, but prairie dogs and coyotes (rifles are a .223 and a .22-250) don't tend to line themselves up on the ranges indicated on my updated reticle charts anyway, so there's always some hold over or under involved. So, I generally don't bother. At most of the ranges I'm shooting at, holding just below a coyote's back or a prairie dog's head is almost always going to put them down. |
I do agree u have to shoot the right load and bullet. When I bought my tv triumph I had been planning on a tc omega with the nikon omega bdc scope. It was setup with a 250 grain shockwave with 150 grains of 777 out the omega. When I decided on the triumph I decided no bdc. I called nikon about a diff scope. They told me the omega and the triumph used basically the same barrel and in test the triumph was dead on with the bdc marks. A local gunshop/baitshop owner said it would never be dead on at 250 a waste of money. I think he was pissef I didnt buy it from him. He wsnted 625 for the muzzy 425for the scope. I got it online from a shop in Michigan for 750 scope mounted to my door. That year I shot my first deer ranged at 254 yards with a dead on heart shot having never fired pass 150 yards. But I was slave to the 250 grain shockwave and 150 grains of powder which me and my muzzleloader loved but I want options with my rifle
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