Kaianuanu

I got my new savage axis, and modified the trigger which really turned a cheap rifle into a sweet tack driver. Anyway, before i went to the range, i ran the boresnake through it twice w/o any oil or cleaner because i didnt have any yet. I shot 40 rounds through it at the range and 2 or three times in the first 15 shots, the shells stuck in the chamber and i needed a range supervisor to help me get them out. is this because it just needed to be broken in, or maybe i cleaned out any lube with the boresnake? After, i cleaned the bore with bore cleaner and i put a VERY light coat of rem-oil on the bolt, reciever and the chamber. (I was shooting cheap federal 130 grain)

Should i try to put some grease or something in there, or what?

Big Z

Don't grease your chamber.
Are you able to move the bolt, or is the bolt stuck in place when this happens? Or is the extractor slipping off the case? If so, does it slip off easily, or with difficulty?

keyshunter

The term "tack driver" when applied to rifles is an imprecise term referring to small group size, and does not refer to the trigger. One man's "tack driver" may shoot 1.5" groups, and another man's "tack driver" is capable of 0.3" groups.

Now, on to your extraction issue. Please answer the questions Big Z asked. Since you are shooting factory Federals, it is unlikely that the loads are the problem. I suspect that the problem lies either with the extractor, or with a rough chamber, or both. Never, never grease a chamber, except for storage, and in that case, remove the grease before firing the rifle.

Kaianuanu

the extractor was slipping off with great difficulty

keyshunter

The chamber should probably be checked for roughness, or a burr. But, this may not be the problem.

Since this is a new rifle, I suggest that you call Savage customer service and describe the problem to them.

Back in the late '50's I had a new Rem. 721, .270 that behaved the same way. Having heard that some 721/722's had extractor problems (the extractor was redesigned for the 700's) I called Remington customer service and they had me return the rifle. When returned to me, the rifle was fine, but even though I tried to follow up with CS, they would not tell me what the actual problem was.

Okefenokee Knives

If you have any of the fired cases you should take a look at the primers to see if there are signs of pressure. Until you have eliminated the fact that something might have been wrong with your ammo its going to be hard to pinpoint the problem.

fritz1

I have had this problem with a 270 before, mine was bad brass though, I had bought some winchester brass that was doing the same thing, got some remington brass and have never had that problem since. I guess it was just a bad batch of brass, that is the only time I have ever experienced this.

AP HD_Jake

i had this problem with my 700. have never had a problem with a higher end rifle such as the remington 700. when i went to the range i shot it twice and the second casing stuck. we (me and the range master) had to use a rod to knock it out. i noticed there were rings on the casing. i took it to my buddy who is a fine gunsmith and we ordered a new barrel because the there were a few tiny spots that were cut to big in the chamber. the only way to figure this is that the barrel was unstable during the chambering process. but what happens is the casing expands into the grooves and locks into place. now you can be thankful brass is soft because otherwise the casings would not come out. good luck i hope its just a bur that can be removed because barrels arent a dime a dozen.

Big Z

Remove the bolt and do a visual inspection of the chamber; also inspect your brass for deformities. Sticky bolt syndrome is not necessarily a rough spot in the chamber; it could be from bad lubricant stuck to the chamber (tends to act up on a hot barrel). Either way, you could start with J-B Bore Bright. It's an ultra-fine grit abrasive cleaning compound used for cleaning barrels. J-B Bore Paste is somewhat more aggressive, which could also be an option. Get a cheap cleaning kit with a 3-piece rod. Put a bore mop (with Bore Bright on it) on one section of rod, and mount the rod into a drill. Run the mop into your chamber and ease the drill up to full speed for about 5 seconds. Clean your chamber and barrel with a liquid solvent like hoppe's. Don't forget to pay attention to the grooves that the bolt lugs go into. Have q-tips handy. If you want, you can clean with gun oil; just wipe it dry afterwards. Proceed to test fire.

You want to 'polish' as little as possible, which is why I said to only run the mop up and down the chamber for 5 seconds before retesting. If bore bright doesn't work, try bore paste. If you have to shoot at a range, bring a cordless drill. I want to say that about a 50 cal mop will give you a good, firm fit, but you'll have to check.