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heavy barrel 10/22

Old 02-09-2011, 09:51 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Maine Shooter



More w/o pics and more still in progress
Did you use Lauer for the yellow in the fluting on the Kurt Adler rifle?

I used Lauer for the flutes on a few of my builds... Mixing paint is making me grey prematurely!
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Old 02-09-2011, 01:53 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by bigcountryextreme
I stoned mine at first and ended up with a fully auto 22. Not a good thing. I bought a titanium sear. I figured that band would cause issues.

LOL, there is definately a right way and a wrong way to work on the trigger group. The trick with stoning is to have a complete understanding of the parts and how they work. You've already found out by trial and error that stoning just means to polish without changing the shape or removing any metal. There's a trick that you can do which eliminates any slop between the sear and the disconnector by using JB Weld, but as many have discovered if these two parts become glued together the gun will go full auto.

The 10/22 is a great gun to fool around with. It's design is simple enough that the average guy can have fun working on it, but it's complicated enough to give you many options when customizing it. Mine isn't as good looking as some of the custom ones that others have posted, but except for the scope and bi-pod my gun is 100% stock.
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:25 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Nomercy448
Did you use Lauer for the yellow in the fluting on the Kurt Adler rifle?

I used Lauer for the flutes on a few of my builds... Mixing paint is making me grey prematurely!
I'd like to know a little more about the paint as well. I'm assuming you use tape to control the paint. Is there a trick to taping a flute off for paint?

I know nothing about it so any info would be great.

Thanks

Tom
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:34 AM
  #14  
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Chopped and channeled factory carbine stock bedded in Devcon.

Hand honed trigger and sear assembly with the optional Devcon (JB Weld) trick for minimum take up.

VQ bolt handle and spring.

20" fluted blue Green Mtn. barrel...Bentz chambered

Leupold VX II AO scope 4x12 40mm

chamfered and polished bolt

trigger guard set screw for minimal overtravel adjustment


Last edited by skb2706; 02-10-2011 at 08:38 AM.
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:29 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by skb2706
Chopped and channeled factory carbine stock bedded in Devcon.

Hand honed trigger and sear assembly with the optional Devcon (JB Weld) trick for minimum take up.

VQ bolt handle and spring.

20" fluted blue Green Mtn. barrel...Bentz chambered

Leupold VX II AO scope 4x12 40mm

chamfered and polished bolt

trigger guard set screw for minimal overtravel adjustment


Nice job. This is what I am after. Can't hang with some of the fancy rigs.

So you chopped off the band section, and rounded some? And channeled out to .920"? Did you add any epoxy bedding to the channel? Did you use an inletting chisel or barrel bedding tool for the oversized barrel?

Last edited by bigcountryextreme; 02-10-2011 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:14 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by bigcountryextreme
I stoned mine at first and ended up with a fully auto 22. Not a good thing. I bought a titanium sear. I figured that band would cause issues.

That sounds fun!



Nice guns in this thread.
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:28 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Colorado Cajun
That sounds fun!



Nice guns in this thread.
Umm, scary actually. Most of the time, it would jam after 4-6 shots.
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Old 02-10-2011, 12:06 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by bigcountryextreme
Nice job. This is what I am after. Can't hang with some of the fancy rigs.

So you chopped off the band section, and rounded some? And channeled out to .920"? Did you add any epoxy bedding to the channel? Did you use an inletting chisel or barrel bedding tool for the oversized barrel?

Yea I don't do thumbhole stocks and tend to be a little more conservative on my guns.
I actually cut the barrel channel with a 15/16" (.9375) ball end mill here in my shop on a Brigdeport. It does a perfect job and allows for about .005" clearance. No sanding. I only bedded the back of the action, the psuedo recoil lug area and a pad for the fluted barrel to set in. This eliminates any barrel droop that can be inherent to 10/22s with heavy barrels.

I have access to a complete machine shop and have a crew of 10 employees working with me everyday in the shop. Its a pretty good gig for us hobbyists.

Last edited by skb2706; 02-10-2011 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:48 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by skb2706
Yea I don't do thumbhole stocks and tend to be a little more conservative on my guns.
I actually cut the barrel channel with a 15/16" (.9375) ball end mill here in my shop on a Brigdeport. It does a perfect job and allows for about .005" clearance. No sanding. I only bedded the back of the action, the psuedo recoil lug area and a pad for the fluted barrel to set in. This eliminates any barrel droop that can be inherent to 10/22s with heavy barrels.

I have access to a complete machine shop and have a crew of 10 employees working with me everyday in the shop. Its a pretty good gig for us hobbyists.
Guess I will have to do it the hard way with inlet chisel.
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Old 02-10-2011, 02:21 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by bigcountryextreme
What kinda stock is this one. This is pretty well what I want to do with my rifle.
It's a factory "T" model stock with a Green Mt FireSight barrel. the trigger was re-worked by TT Shooter. Built is to have an open sight shooter.
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